Yes the 18T pinions fit fine. With an 8000, I was using a 12t pinion with the stock spur gear with 42mm tires on a 100ft straight (Timing is ESC was 10). HTH
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Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
Im not really familiar with the Turnigy motor, what diameter is the can? (Mambas are 20mm)
For the 5400, again it will depend on the size of the track and your tires, but on the same setup in my car on the same track i mentioned in my other post, I would run around a 16/17t.
__________________
Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
Is the exotech frame for the recoil better then the stock Pro one?
Yes. It is lighter, stiffer, and narrower, and it has carbon shock towers that dont flex like chineese gymnasts.
__________________
Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
I would assume so, It was fairly popular last year, they had a full B main, which is more than some of the other classes could say. BTW its 1/14 open, not just a recoil class I will be running an R14 this year in that class and not a recoil, although I would imagine just about everyone else will be running recoils
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Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
Yes.....There will be a 1/14 Open class this year as well.....it is a popular class....I also will be running the R14 this year as well.....
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So this may be a bit pointless to many of you guys, but I imagine in a few years when parts are really hard to find for these cars this may be a good option.
I have been having lots of trouble with tires for my Recoil. I really cant afford a good set of foams, and the rubber tires are chewed up and spit out in a few runs. Not to mention I get bad traction roll on my track with the rubber no matter what suspension settings I use.
I started getting experimental and this is what I came up with. Ill try to get some pics up in the next day or two if anyone is interested.
I have RC18R 3-Racing tires mounted on my Recoil. It took a little work, but if anyone has a better idea I am all ears.
I had lots of 18R tires lying around already and lots of RC18 parts, so this was a cheap conversion.
Using RC18 front uprights and steering blocks it only took a little trimming and drilling to make them fall into place. I also had to add spacers, but that just gives me another place to change the wheelbase.
In the rear I used RC18 hub carriers with again only slight trimming and drilling of the hole for the larger hinge pins.
The axles are the same length as RC18R axles, so that was easy.
Now I have wheelbase adjustments on the front, rear inner(stock), and rear outer.
Im sure I have changed some of the geometry of the suspension, but everything seems to be fine on the track, I really dont know anything is different other than the tires last and last compared to stock.
Anyone that has some input good or bad let me know. I almost sold this car, but then I decided I want to make it work for me. I race on a bumpy vinyl mat track, and rubber seems to be the best tires for any car, but i cant just keep buying those stock tires just to watch them melt off the rim in a few runs. Getting a setup for the bumps and still make it fast is very tough, any ideas there would be appreciated too.
Sorry for the long post, but I hope someone can get some ideas of their own from my conversion. Or maybe give me some ideas that I may have missed.
Very interested to see pics of your modification (Burnineyes). So far the best tyres I've used are the recoil foams but not sure how they would go on vynil track.
Here is a few pics. Dont make fun of my shabby work cause it was late and it was my first go at it. If all goes well with the next few track tests Ill re-do evereything and make it look much more "stock".
I simply had to shave a bit off the sides of the front upright to clear the different style of arm the Recoil uses, and drill the hinge pin holes to the larger Recoil size. Then add spacers to make it fit nicely. I used 1/10th shock limiters I had lying around. The Recoil turnbuckles were a bit long in a few spots, so I just cut a screw threads to the right length and threaded the ball ends onto that. Lastly, I had to add extensions to the front steering blocks. The Recoil has much longer standoffs for the steering to connect.
Ill try to list everything I used, but keep in mind I did this with parts I already had here so dont hate me if I forget something.
1x 21015-caster block
1x 21016-steering block
1x 21010-rear hub carrier
2x 21101-bearing
2x 21106-bearing
1x 21131-screws
1x 21096-axle pins and spacers
1x 21284-dogbones and springs-can be substituted with cvd axles
1x 21283-stub axles-can be substituted with cvd axles
and of course tires
Only thing else I can think of is spacers I used on the hingepins. I used some old shock limiters from old rebuilt 1/10th shocks. Cant find them without buying a shock rebuild kit, so Ill let you find what works for you.
It takes a little time and careful work, but worth it in my case.
Unfortunately your stock cvds will not work with the 18R tires.
The Turnigy motor is sweet! You should see it in my RC18T, pulls wheelies for 50+ minutes and is 115*F when I stop.
I will be running an R14 this year in that class and not a recoil, although I would imagine just about everyone else will be running recoils
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