These are some things one can do; Lower ride height, smaller tires, ca on sidewall of front tires, stiffer/shorter springs, we use Asc. VCS springs cut in half, 5 vcs spring rates to choose from. The stiffest spring offers the greatest potential corner speed but is less forgiving. Other words, you can excede the chassis maximum lateral g-load, with less warning.
Keep looking back here, for news on the RATFactor chassis and spring sets. They will be available pretty soon.
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****RATFactor Racing Products**** www.ratfactorracing.com****ratfactor@live.com**** www.midwestseries.com
What is droop? Pretty sure I know, but how you described how to get it makes me wonder.
How do you get more ride height without moving the lower shock mounts to the higher mount. Our shocks are completely extended so we can't go any higher.
huskerdually,
Droop is the amount of down travel in the suspension. If you put the chassis up on blocks, with the tires off the table, droop is the amount of down travel. It is usually measured by putting the car on blocks and measuring the clearance from the underside of the hub carrier to the table surface.
I run my ride height at approx 3mm. There should always be down travel left in the suspension, when at ride height. That is, car should 'settle' into the springs when set on the table, and tires should remain on the surface when you begin to lift it off the table (shocks should extend beyond their length at ride height). With the Recoil, droop must be set by the overall length of the shocks. (RATFactor chassis will incorporate droop screws--yet another shameless plug).
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****RATFactor Racing Products**** www.ratfactorracing.com****ratfactor@live.com**** www.midwestseries.com
Kenji- I have to up the ponies to make up for my lack of driving skills! If I was a whole lot smoother and could hit apexes consistantly, then I might put the paperweight in.
I have the Sportwerks ball diffs in my recoil. No shimming and no cutting. The gears mesh prefect. Here is what I did to set them up.
Use a towel just in case you drop a diff ball.
I found that the diff lube in stock diffs was not even adequate. So I got some advice form Duneland. I took them apart and cleaned everything with motor spray. Then rebuilt them with Associated stealth diff lube. A drop on every ball and a nice thin film on the rings. Before assembly and putting on the lube I used 1500 grit sand paper to give the rings a nice polish and take down any high spots. After assembly I tighten them up so there was almost no spin. I could spin them if I turn them real hard (they will loosen when you drive them)
I have them in my recoil now and they work great! Very smooth.
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How can I make this little car go faster!!
Thanks for the post, I will do what you suggest. How thick or thin is the diff oil you are using? One of my concerns, which you did address, was how tight to make them.
Just to address a comment in an earlier post, foam tires were mentioned..
what type of track surface is run on ? I run on RCP track and the rubber tires work best, but wear fast. I have not been able to get good traction from the foams but open to any and all suggestions. thanks again
I do not use oil for the diffs. I use Team Associated diff lube. part no 6591 it is a grease.
We run on a canvas surface. The stock rubber tires hook up great but they wear out to quick. I run the sportwerks Magenta foams and get great traction and get alot of use out of them so far.
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How can I make this little car go faster!!
Airshot,
Are you alowed to use compound? If not, you can try wetting your foam tires with simple green and put in zip lock the night before. Take them out and wipe dry with rag. This will increase their grip. Nothing much can be done to extend the life of the rubber tires.
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****RATFactor Racing Products**** www.ratfactorracing.com****ratfactor@live.com**** www.midwestseries.com
Oh. Is that with the standard shocks. I got my sons put back together last night and it doesn't have any droop, maybe .5 millimeter, maybe.
Yep, w/standard shocks, I had very little of the shaft threaded into the shock-end. Some are putting rear shafts in the front. That gives adequate drop without having the shaft mostly un-threaded from the shock-end.
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****RATFactor Racing Products**** www.ratfactorracing.com****ratfactor@live.com**** www.midwestseries.com
YOO-HOO
Got a rat factor chassis saturday, ran it saturdat night this things BAD @-s!! Way better than the sportwerks!! To bad not everybodys got one. Sportwerks should use this on the splashette!!!!!