if you dont care about branding, nikko (crap i know but i guess bodies are exempt from toy grade specs) have a large range of 1/14th bodies. they come clear, with a pack of stickers, but i dont know if they have pre drilled holes or not. apart from them no one else seems to make bodies.
Does anyone know where to get the ball diffs and/or the threaded shocks yet?
I just spoke to a development guy at Horizon today and he said the ball diffs will be $17.99 each and the sliding motor mount will be $34.99 (ouch!). The aluminum shock bodies are available now, no?
I just spoke to a development guy at Horizon today and he said the ball diffs will be $17.99 each and the sliding motor mount will be $34.99 (ouch!). The aluminum shock bodies are available now, no?
The ones on the Spashett edition is threaded with an adjuster collar. Hope they have shorter stiffer springs to go with it.
yeah! I have an inside scoop on one. I hope to get it for x-mas or by mid January.
I am doing great finally! (r/c-wise) I have 2 mean ass Mugens and a mean ass Recoil. The guy who bought my HPI RS-4 is going to be in town tomorrow and we are going to race around in a huge parking lot (where my boys can stretch their legs ). I think my Recoil will whip the HPI. I am not sure but anxious to find out. I am still charging batteries tonight in preparation for a little fun tomorrow. Have you been kickin' butt in some racing this year?
Quick update: I raced my buddy with an HPI RS 4 nitro and if I did not beat him, I sure as hell kept with him! He could not believe how fast it was. I did end up with some cogging but...wow.
Most of you probably already realize the extra play in the steering on the Recoil, being the type of guy who has to find a better way, I have found a solution. First I tried to replace the bushings with the bearings in the steering,
but found these to be much sloppier. I then realized the shoulder bolts were designed to bottom out in the blind holes and not allow full contact with the bushings. So here is my fix..remove the shoulder bolts (4) that retain the bronze bushings. Get a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the threaded hole that the shoulder bolts thread into. Drill the blind hole all the way thru, then be sure to clean the threads on the shoulder bolts as a small amount of plastic may have built up on the threads. If you have access to a small counter sink tool, add a small chamfer where the thread starts into the plastic part, while this is not necessary it does help to start the thread more easily. I added a small drop of lubricant to the shoulder bolt and a very small drop of thread loc (blue) to the thread of the shoulder bolt when reinstalling.
You will now find the shoulder bolt can be threaded into the plastic without bottoming and can be drawn down more snuggly to the bushing and remove all the excess play. Adjust with the servo disconnected so it is not tight, but the slop removed. I did a similiar thing to the front castor blocks but here the threaded hole is already thru, both top and bottom. This area does need the small chamfer tool to add a chamfer to the edge of the threaded hole to allow the shoulder bolt to go into the bushing more deeply to eliminate the excess play. Some of you may already be familiar with this procedure, but I have not saw any postings on this so I thought it may be helpful to some.
Let me know your findings,
hello. i'm thinking to buy a recoil or a tailwhip. and i've seen that the same car as carisma GT14 chassis model. anyone have a carisma? is it a good quality car?
i want it to be my drift machine and maybe to have some parts and change it into a recoil.
Do you think it's a good choice?
Sorry for my english. i'm spanish
hello. i'm thinking to buy a recoil or a tailwhip. and i've seen that the same car as carisma GT14 chassis model. anyone have a carisma? is it a good quality car?
i want it to be my drift machine and maybe to have some parts and change it into a recoil.
Do you think it's a good choice?
Sorry for my english. i'm spanish
The Carisma gt14 is the same car. Not sold in the US.
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If you want to stay in the stock class, then the Carisma R380 motor will be a good improvement. If you want to jump into the Mod class, then it's a brushless/Lipo combo. I've raced against the Mamba system in a car and it ran well. Ron from Duneland will check in here and make more detailed suggestions. Same with the servo. He had a HiTec HS225 in stock when I upgraded and it made a night and day difference. He also suggested an XRay servo saver. Both items made the Recoil a "new" car.
Duneland opened at noon, and has open practice all day and racing tonight. Take a ride over and check things out.
yeah! I have an inside scoop on one. I hope to get it for x-mas or by mid January.
Have you been kickin' butt in some racing this year?
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