Recoil Cup = Recoil 1/14th scale sedan cars
*Only chassis kit allowed is the Sportwerks Recoil 1/14th scale sedans
*Only Sportwerks Chassis and suspension hop up parts are allowed.
*Either Foam or Rubber tires can be used….must be sold under the Sportwerks name.
*Only Sportwerks bodies made for the Recoil can be used.
*Only 6 cell packs with no higher then 1400Mah rating….No Lipo’s
*Only Sportwerks motors are allowed…ie Kit motor and or the XLR 8 motor.
*Any electronics can be used….ie Radio, receiver, ESC, servo and battery.
These rules may be adjusted as soon as more specific information is out there…..this will be close to a “tamiya” type class where only Sportwerks parts can be used.
*The addition of a Heatsink or a Fan is allowed to cool the motor and or ESC.
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*Only Sportwerks motors are allowed…ie Kit motor and or the XLR 8 motor.
Just a thought.....the hobbyshops connected to the tracks where the Cup will be held should make sure they have a few of the motors you are allowing available. I'm seeing those two motors above having problems on a regular basis where we race.
Many of us have swapped out the above motors and use the Carisma 380 motor as a replacement. Carisma is the company that makes the Recoil for Sportwerks.
Rob,
I don't know who puts the Hurricane thing together, but rethinking the motor requirement is a good idea. I understand and agree with the general idea, but the stock motor (and the XLR-8 too for that matter) is junk. This is from a track/store owner with experience of several units. I would have to say that at least half of them hang a brush on the first run. I worked on mine with a modified com stick (to fit the smaller hoods) and extended the life to a few runs. I worked on my XLR-8 before installation. Cleaned up the hoods as best I could, cleaned the com. It ran slow and hot right from the start. Burned up in a couple runs. When running properly, the XLR-8 is a faster motor. Would that run in the same class?
From my standpoint, it is more trouble than it is worth to get the Sportwerks motor to work. Very slight mods get the Carisma 380 motor in and you 'good to go' for quite some time. When it eventually burns up, $12.95 gets you a new motor.
Here are my symptons: I am all set to fire (fuel, primed, starter box....check) and it fires right up. Then dies soon after. I start it and goose it to keep it going and it dies. I have put in a new plug (I should try another) and have richened it up a little. I also notice that it runs a little longer if I hold the plug ignitor on a while (rather, it dies after I pull the ignitor). Any ideas? I know it is tough when you are not looking at it. I am not good enough yet with these engines to know if I have an air leak or something deep like that.
What do ya think, sydewynder? Your explaination makes sense.
I understand the motor issue, and the guys who make the rules know I use a carisma 380 in my car. They have decided to go this way to allow the people who buy the car and want to run it to participate. I knew when I posted this that everybody would say that the motors suck. Yeah, they do. But it's not my show, just wanted to let you guys know you could race.
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Rob,
I don't know who puts the Hurricane thing together, but rethinking the motor requirement is a good idea. I understand and agree with the general idea, but the stock motor (and the XLR-8 too for that matter) is junk. This is from a track/store owner with experience of several units. I would have to say that at least half of them hang a brush on the first run. I worked on mine with a modified com stick (to fit the smaller hoods) and extended the life to a few runs. I worked on my XLR-8 before installation. Cleaned up the hoods as best I could, cleaned the com. It ran slow and hot right from the start. Burned up in a couple runs. When running properly, the XLR-8 is a faster motor. Would that run in the same class?
From my standpoint, it is more trouble than it is worth to get the Sportwerks motor to work. Very slight mods get the Carisma 380 motor in and you 'good to go' for quite some time. When it eventually burns up, $12.95 gets you a new motor.
Im the person that came up with the rules for the All-Star Carpet Series. We wanted to keep the rules simple and keep the car as close to stock and lower cost as could be. We also wanted to see how everything would work out after 1 full season of racing on larger 1/10th scale tracks. I think more people are going to have issues with the car rolling over then the motor not running 100% when there is 50 to 60 1/10th scale cars running on the track and the traction level is high. I just got my car running this weekend and I ran it two days in a row and so far the stock motor is working just fine. Im going to see just how long it will last without doing anything. We went with these motors because they are SPORTWERKS motors and we were looking to keep it like a Tamiya type class. The only non Sportwerks parts you can use are springs and electronics. Yes the Xlr8 motor is a faster motor but that might be a disadvantage on some of the tracks when the bite is higher and the cars want to flip over easily. But if its the motor that everyone ends up using then it just became the "spec" motor with out being called "spec". Again these are the rules for this series.....if you want to come and race in the series you need to follow these rules.....if the rule was everyone had to have yellow bodies Im sure someone would complain they cant race their white body. Not everyone will be happy with rules but they are rules for a reason.....good or bad. I hope you guys can make it out to some of the events.
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syndr0me....."Foam died in 2007"......"when it comes to foam tires, Ohio still thinks it's 2004."....."Maybe we should rename foam sedan "Northern Ohio Sedan.""
I agree with kevin . He ran his car 2 days in a row and many oacks each day.. Maybe it was luck, but he did not have 1 problem on either day with the stock motor. And the car looked awesome and its going to be a very fun class to run in the Midwest All-Star Series.
For anyone who is intrested in joining us for here is the website
Here are my symptons: I am all set to fire (fuel, primed, starter box....check) and it fires right up. Then dies soon after. I start it and goose it to keep it going and it dies. I have put in a new plug (I should try another) and have richened it up a little. I also notice that it runs a little longer if I hold the plug ignitor on a while (rather, it dies after I pull the ignitor). Any ideas? I know it is tough when you are not looking at it. I am not good enough yet with these engines to know if I have an air leak or something deep like that.
What do ya think, sydewynder? Your explaination makes sense.
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