We race on a canvas surface, similar feel to ozite but more reactive and we run heavier oil and a much stiffer spring than what comes in the kit. If you cut the kit springs so the chassis gets into the suspension travel the spring is much to soft, we have been using the associated vcs springs and cut them to the proper length. Most of us are using the copper spring in the front and the silver spring in the rear, this set-up makes the car very reactive and fast in the corners. I have also ran this set-up on ozite and found it to work very well. We also run the foams, I have found the purples to work the best for my driving style while others perfer a softer foam.
this littel car is a blast if only it werent so fragile...
2 questions for you other users:
1. does anyone else have a problem with the front arm hingepins popping out of the blocks when you hit something?
2. for those who run the carisme 380 motor: does anyone else's motor seem to "lag", almost like it has a hung brush or something, before it hits into the power band?
We've been running stock recoils at our LHS doing carpet road course. And everyone has had the lower arm pin pop out at one time or another by hitting the pipes. I'm glad nothing breaks but its a pain in the butt. It seems to me once it pops out it happens more often, even on what seems to be not so hard hits. So yes, I know of four others having the same problem as you, including myself.
I don't know about the 380 carisma motor but the 360 that comes with recoil is a pile! I'm on my second one now and kinda mad I waisted $14 on a new one. Iv'e tried everything to help the hanging brushes, deburring the brush channels. Tryin' different brushes, slightly filing down the size of the brushes. Even stronger springs... no matter what I do or try this lil' beast seems to fail after 20 or so laps, oh and never while i'm practicing only while its racing. I think the car hates me I swear. I'm going to do the vr3 motor and mount swap. I'm using the micro spy controller and a DX3.0 radio so I know those aren't causing my issues.
The carisma motor is great. It's not any faster than the stock motor but it takes a beating and with a few shots of motor spray and fresh oil on the bushings, when it does slow down, it just keeps on ticking. Cheap too. Duneland figured it out a long time ago and spread his gospel. I'm a believer!
As of last night I got some grinding noise happening now. If I put the car down and hold it back I can make it happen. When racing I'll slow for a turn then on full throttle the noise happens.
I'm thinking it's either the slipper, which I've never touched since day one, or it's something inside my transmission gears in the rear. I've never had the slipper or the transmission apart yet. I took the rear wheels off and pulled the dogbones out to see if there's an adjustable differential screw, like in 1/10th scale, but alas there's nothing there.
I was going to try and adjusting the slipper first to see if that has any effect first.
Kenji, it is probably in the diff or diffs. There is a bit too much backlash internaly. If you shim the outdrive gear that fits in the case, you can make the diff a lot stronger. Take diff apart, remove spider gears, then remove the output gear and install shim behind gear. Kris made one out of some kind of gasket material. You can use a regular metal shim (I think it is 8mm, but it might be larger). O.D. of shim wight have to be filed down a bit for fitting into case. Using a 'glop' of thick silicone diff fluid improves life of gears as well as being a tuning option.
The carisma motor is great. It's not any faster than the stock motor but it takes a beating and with a few shots of motor spray and fresh oil on the bushings, when it does slow down, it just keeps on ticking. Cheap too. Duneland figured it out a long time ago and spread his gospel. I'm a believer!
The XLR8 motor is also very good!!!!! By far that is the best motor if you are still running the stock electronics. And if you run it with a Lipo....
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Turns out the lhs owner would let use/run the vendetta stock motor. He runs them in a strictly stock class for carpet so going to faster motors where an issue. Using the eflite adapter plate the motor fit with slight mod to chassis with ease. Its a tad slower with the stock gearing but had lots of punch, with a 16 pinion the speed is the same as a stock recoil with that 360.
Turns out the lhs owner would let use/run the vendetta stock motor. He runs them in a strictly stock class for carpet so going to faster motors where an issue. Using the eflite adapter plate the motor fit with slight mod to chassis with ease. Its a tad slower with the stock gearing but had lots of punch, with a 16 pinion the speed is the same as a stock recoil with that 360.
Don't you need pinions with a 2.3 mm hole instead of 2mm?
if only it werent so fragile...
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