I just picked up my Recoil on Friday! I went to the track today as I was unable to last night, but unfortunately they didn't have enough of a turnout to race, so I just practiced. I have left everything stock so far.
A few things I noticed/had problems with.
1) I had to adjust the steering rate WAY down as this car has TONS of steering.
2) Twice when hitting the boards, the right front dogbone would pop out and jamp the steering. Someone found a small spring on the track that looked like it might go to my car so I popped it in the hub and I never had a problem with the dogbone popping out again. Not sure if the springs belong or not as the directions don't show any. Anyone have this problem? I think CVDs are in my future.
3) I had some pretty serious chasis rolls when cutting a corner to sharp. Need to add some heavier oil I think.
4) The rear end slides out pretty good. I think maybe some tire compound will cure this. Any suggestions?
5) Twice I had the front click that holds the battery strap pop off. I eventually replaced the stock clips with some larger ones and had no more problems. I did notice however that the battery likes to slide around. I was able to get the front clip the in lower hole, but the back clip was too tight to get it into the second hole. I think I heard that there is a screw mounted strap conversion... is this true?
It was a pretty good day. I have never driven a carpet track before, so it will probably take me some time to get used to it. I think once I get some compound on the tires I will be able to run it a little harder without sliding the rear around so much.
Robo CVD's are the way to go definitly.
as for the strap convertion I don't know i use strapping tape with my Lipo .
to keep the rear in place give the rear 1/2 degree more camber first (point top of wheels in) and befor you tear down the shock to change oil i sujest adding a preload to the spring first. Insted of putting compound on the tires get the foams they have much better grip on carpet.
I use the purple in back and Pink or magenta in front.
Robo, most of us were looking for more steering out of the original set-up.
One of the shortcommings of the kit set-up is; the manner in which ride-height and droop are obtained. Droop must be set by adjusting overall shock length (by threading the shock-end on further or extending it).
shock springs are too long, making it necessary to shorten the springs in order to set ride-height with the shock spacers.
Asc. VCS shock springs are available in a variety of rates & fit the shock bodies well. I cut one fo those in half to make two springs for the recoil. I run the copper springs in front and silver in rear. With the shorter-stiffer springs, I can set ride-height and droop seperately. This set-up reduces chassis roll, allowing for greater corner speed. Get the foam tires! They will out-last the kit tires many times over, and give you more tuning options.
Robo, most of us were looking for more steering out of the original set-up.
Wow... you were really trying to get MORE steering? I could not beleive how much I had to turn down the steering rate. With it all the way up, I would barely turn the wheel and the car would turn so sharp I could not control it.
Maybe you are talking about something else. Should I try running it with the steering rate all the way up or am I doing something wrong?
Another thing I noticed with the stock electronics... sometimes when using reverse, I would barely hit the trigger and it would launch backwards fast. Then there was a hesitation of about 2-3 seconds before I was able to go forward again. I am going to replace the stock electronics eventually as we are not allowed to use reverse anyway and I would rather have all brake.
Robo, yes MORE steering is what we were looking for. Are you on a large track? We have been running mostly on 1/18 size tracks. I took mine to a good sized 1/10 track & didn't need any more steering there. There are plenty of chassis tuning options available to get the amount of steering you desire.
There are spacers in each suspension mount plate location, that can be moved for changing roll-center, anti-squat & kick. I ended up with all of them between the mount and gearbox. This put all hinge pins at the lowest position. Maximum steering is the result.
DIFFS: a small glop of thick silicone fluid helps the diffs out. I was running a small amount of 100k weight in front and 10k in rear.
Now I have the Vendetta ball diffs installed and I can put down any amount of power I desire.
Robo, yes MORE steering is what we were looking for. Are you on a large track? We have been running mostly on 1/18 size tracks. I took mine to a good sized 1/10 track & didn't need any more steering there. There are plenty of chassis tuning options available to get the amount of steering you desire.
There are spacers in each suspension mount plate location, that can be moved for changing roll-center, anti-squat & kick. I ended up with all of them between the mount and gearbox. This put all hinge pins at the lowest position. Maximum steering is the result.
DIFFS: a small glop of thick silicone fluid helps the diffs out. I was running a small amount of 100k weight in front and 10k in rear.
Now I have the Vendetta ball diffs installed and I can put down any amount of power I desire.
Did you have to modify anything to get them to fit?
not sure what Duneland uses, but with our Ozite I use pinks all the way around and the car is planted and neutral. I'm still using the out of the box chassis setup and springs too. We run on a mini size track,32 foot straight, not a 10th scale track.
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