I'm going to be making an attempt when I get the spare time at making them out of stainless steel since the stock ones are pieces of crap. If it turns out to be feasible, I'll make more and sell them on here. And they won't break.
I'm going to be making an attempt when I get the spare time at making them out of stainless steel since the stock ones are pieces of crap. If it turns out to be feasible, I'll make more and sell them on here. And they won't break.
Mine came broken in the box! UPS broke mine for me.
I've spoken with 3-4 other people who broke theirs in crashes, and every store I've talked to is out of stock of them because everyone breaks them. It's like Robitronic didn't do any product testing before they released the things...
i broke mine before i ever drove the car. i put a little loctite on the threads so the adjusters (friction plates, shock) would not move (like the instructons recommed) and when i tried to adjust it the screw twisted right in half. next time i'll use o-rings behind the adjuster nuts.
MikeR was right.....changing to bigger wires will help with your problem...the cap will help but not a must.....Most of all run the matched 1400's or best of all the new matched 1500's from Team Scream Racing in your four cell scalpel if you do not want to mess with the lipo setup......You can also adjust the dead band on the trigger and also in the castle link you can adjust the punch control and throttle response to correct the stuttering......I have only in all my time running Castle speedos and motors have had this stuttering problem twice just before I lost a motor from running it so hard for a long period of time....But that is so far and few between......And yes it would cool to get a different color can but remember we run on visual Company Identity also and when you see green you now it's Castle...I have been trying to get the new motors in black with Castle engraved in Yellow...Time will tell......
__________________
Many Thanks to all my great sponsors:
CASTLE CREATIONS / MAXAMPS.COM / PARMA / SCHUMACHER / THETOYZ.COM / GQ TIRES / EXOTEK / ROBITRONIC-USA / TEAM SCREAM / MRL / BROWN ENGINEERING / BIG SQUID RC / SK MOTION
"MICRO RACING FOR LIFE".....SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL TRACKS AND HOBBY SHOPS
Sorry to hear you do not like the Castle products...May I ask Why?
I run a Castle Micro Pro in my 4 cell scalpel on one side and a MaxAmps 860 2s lipo on the motor side.......With a Castle 6800kv SideWinder motor......The 5400kv is fast also but I use this setup at short tracks........
Wesley....how's it going?
What is the Micro Pro from Castle? I didn't know Castle made one. So you recommend running it along with an 860 2s lipo and the 6800kv Sidewinder motor. What gearing would you suggest running with above setup and on what size track? Also, could you post a pic of your chassis so we can all see the layout of your electronics, etc. I have almost completed my new Scalpel chassis and would like to get some ideas for the electronics layout.
Thanks,
Dave Berry
Dave,
The Micro Pro is one of our new speed controllers that we showed off at the Micro Truck Nationals......Associated also showed up with the new micro LRP 4 speedo....I am out of town right now but I will try and get that picture up asap for you......I run a 9 or 10t pinion with that set up and run a 1/4 oz. on the side that has the Micro pro and mini spektrum receiver and balances out real close.....it is real fast...RC Madness is the perfect size for this gearing, I believe that track is 30x80 ....some thing like that.....Good at Indy Slots also...
go to bigsquidrc.com and look a Tim Mohr's truck pic and you will see what the Micro Pro looks like......
__________________
Many Thanks to all my great sponsors:
CASTLE CREATIONS / MAXAMPS.COM / PARMA / SCHUMACHER / THETOYZ.COM / GQ TIRES / EXOTEK / ROBITRONIC-USA / TEAM SCREAM / MRL / BROWN ENGINEERING / BIG SQUID RC / SK MOTION
"MICRO RACING FOR LIFE".....SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL TRACKS AND HOBBY SHOPS
I can't get the stock motor in this thing without the + touching the carbon and the - touching the aluminum, or at least without being within a couple hairs distance away. I don't know if anodized aluminum can conduct, but I know non-anodized and carbon can.... Anyone have a suggestion, or a closeup picture of their setup?
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