I finally got to run my scalpel this week and its now a bit of a puzzle
Over and over I've read that everyone loves them and they handle so good with the basic kit setup etc.
Mine is EXTREMELY twitchy and very reactive to steering input... I have my steering exponential and servo speed now so slow to make it controllable I am certain I have something wrong.
The track I am running is fairly low grip carpet... everything is per the kit as far as springs, settings etc... using traction compound on the rears
Does anyone have setups or setup tips I can look at?
Also does anyone have links to sites with the 6 cell chassis, t-bars etc?
__________________
I bought a new car... now I just need the time to race it!
I finally got to run my scalpel this week and its now a bit of a puzzle
Over and over I've read that everyone loves them and they handle so good with the basic kit setup etc.
Mine is EXTREMELY twitchy and very reactive to steering input... I have my steering exponential and servo speed now so slow to make it controllable I am certain I have something wrong.
The track I am running is fairly low grip carpet... everything is per the kit as far as springs, settings etc... using traction compound on the rears
Does anyone have setups or setup tips I can look at?
Also does anyone have links to sites with the 6 cell chassis, t-bars etc?
ShadowAu......I feel your frustration. I experienced similar issues with my stock Scalpel too. After running 12th scale for at least 10 years or so and looking at the components layed out on the Scalpel, right away I knew there would be some handeling issues even before it hit the track.
There are a few things you can do to help correct the twitchy problems you feel with the stock ( out of the box) version. (1) try putting CA on the outside sidewall on the front tires. (2) try replacing the front suspension arm springs with stiffer ones. CRC has a good selection that will fit. (3) soften the rear pod dampening tension spring and put some Assoc. diff lube between the discs. (4) when putting traction compound on your tires, only apply in to the entire width on the rear tires only and nothing on the front. Let me know what your results are after trying any of these ideas. If that doesn't work I have some other ideas I can share with you.....a lot of other ideas.
HERE IT IS THE NEW PARMA MINI SPEED 8 - #10084.
After many months of testing it is finally here a body that will fit both stock and 150mm chassis. It will be availible in about a month.
__________________
PHAT QUAD RACING, TEAM LOSI, CRC, HPI/HOTBODIES, RATZAS, DARKSIDE MOTOR SPORTS,PROMATCH RACING, TEAM BROOD, PARMA. www.browneng.org, TEAM SCREAM. ROBITRONICS, RC AMERICA, JOHN'S BSR RACING TIRES, SKYROCKET BATTERIES, TEKIN
ShadowAu......I feel your frustration. I experienced similar issues with my stock Scalpel too. After running 12th scale for at least 10 years or so and looking at the components layed out on the Scalpel, right away I knew there would be some handeling issues even before it hit the track.
There are a few things you can do to help correct the twitchy problems you feel with the stock ( out of the box) version. (1) try putting CA on the outside sidewall on the front tires. (2) try replacing the front suspension arm springs with stiffer ones. CRC has a good selection that will fit. (3) soften the rear pod dampening tension spring and put some Assoc. diff lube between the discs. (4) when putting traction compound on your tires, only apply in to the entire width on the rear tires only and nothing on the front. Let me know what your results are after trying any of these ideas. If that doesn't work I have some other ideas I can share with you.....a lot of other ideas.
What about diff settings... going back to my old 1/10 pan car days I tried running it very tight... good idea or not?
__________________
I bought a new car... now I just need the time to race it!
What about diff settings... going back to my old 1/10 pan car days I tried running it very tight... good idea or not?
Very tight diff is good as long as the diff feels very smooth and not gritty. The best way I check a diff, for example, on a 12th scale pan car is to hold each of the rear tires in each hand. While holding the tires firmly put your thumb on the spur gear and try to spin it. If it spins too easy, you probably don't have the diff tight enough. On a 12th scale car you should barely be able to move the spur gear with your thumb if the diff is set correctly. Keeping in mind that the diff should also feel smooth. To check to see if the diff is smooth, simply rotate one of the rear tires while holding the spur gear with your fingers. If the diff feels smooth and the spur gear is good and tight than you have a pretty darn good diff. If the diff feels gritty, you probably need to either clean it and replace the diff lube, or replace the diff balls or diff rings. On a 12th scale car you want a good diff especially if your running modified. When you squeeze the trigger you want the rear axle to act like a solid axle so you have good excelleration speed without hearing the diff slipping. And while entering a turn is when you want the diff to function very smoothly for better corner speed.
OK ......with all that said about the diff on a 12th scale car as an example of a correct diff setting, we need to talk about the diff on the scalpel. I hope I'm not boaring you with all this detailed discussion about your very simple question about a diff setting. I'm just trying to compare 12th to 18th so you understand how to set a diff on the 18th scale and why.
The scalpel weights aprox. 1/3rd the weight of a 12th scale. With that said the diff on a scalpel doesn't need to be as tight for it to function correctly because the weight is so much less. With all that was said above, you probably would have a good running diff in a scalpel just by loosening the diff so it's not as tight. Weather your running a stock motor or a brushless motor in your scalpel make sure the diff is just tight enough so the diff doesn't slip. Well, that pretty much explaines you diff question. Hope it was helpful.
Very tight diff is good as long as the diff feels very smooth and not gritty. The best way I check a diff.... .... Well, that pretty much explaines you diff question. Hope it was helpful.
Yeah it answered it well... I was pretty sure I was heading in the right direction with it but I may actually have it TOO tight... won't be able to check for a little while but hopefully soon... going to try some of the other ideas you gave me and I managed to get hold of some of the option springs for the front of the scalpel and they are quite a bit harder... so hopefully I can make some progress
__________________
I bought a new car... now I just need the time to race it!
Yeah it answered it well... I was pretty sure I was heading in the right direction with it but I may actually have it TOO tight... won't be able to check for a little while but hopefully soon... going to try some of the other ideas you gave me and I managed to get hold of some of the option springs for the front of the scalpel and they are quite a bit harder... so hopefully I can make some progress
Good luck with getting your ride working better. Let me know how it works out.
CAN ANYONE PLEASE TELL ME, ALTHOUGH IT MIGHT SOUND DUMB, WHAT IT MEANS WHEN A DIFF SLIPS? I JUST DONT GET HOW TIGHT IS TOO TIGHT OR HOW LOOSE IS TOO LOOSE. JUST WHAT AM I LOOKING FOR TO MAKE SURE MY DIFF DOESNT SLIP.....
CAN ANYONE PLEASE TELL ME, ALTHOUGH IT MIGHT SOUND DUMB, WHAT IT MEANS WHEN A DIFF SLIPS? I JUST DONT GET HOW TIGHT IS TOO TIGHT OR HOW LOOSE IS TOO LOOSE. JUST WHAT AM I LOOKING FOR TO MAKE SURE MY DIFF DOESNT SLIP.....
aryajet.....your diff is slipping when the diff balls (between the two diff rings) don't have enough pressure on them by the two diff rings. Usually you can hear it slip when you first squeeze the trigger while the car is at a dead stop. Another way to know when your diff is slipping is when you squeeze the trigger and the car takes off real slow. If the diff rings aren't snugged up enough to the diff balls this will happen all the time. To correct this, simply tighten the diff nut (pan car) or diff screw (touring or off road car). Also, be sure that the diff rings and diff balls are not worn out (ex: deep grooves in diff rings) and be sure you have an adequate amount of diff lube (per manufacturers instructions) on the diff balls and diff rings. Remember that the diff on your car will need to be adjusted for the race surface you are racing on and also for the weight and power (modified or stock motor) of your car. Hope this helps you out.
CAN ANYONE PLEASE TELL ME, ALTHOUGH IT MIGHT SOUND DUMB, WHAT IT MEANS WHEN A DIFF SLIPS? I JUST DONT GET HOW TIGHT IS TOO TIGHT OR HOW LOOSE IS TOO LOOSE. JUST WHAT AM I LOOKING FOR TO MAKE SURE MY DIFF DOESNT SLIP.....
The easest way I've found to set your diff correctly is to hold both rear tires in your hands, and take your thumb and try to move the spur gear. You want it to be just tight enough not move the gear.
The easest way I've found to set your diff correctly is to hold both rear tires in your hands, and take your thumb and try to move the spur gear. You want it to be just tight enough not move the gear.
The problem with this is that I guarantee I can turn a diff with my thumb that most people can't. By the time I can't turn 'em they're too tight for Mod, much less Stock.
This becomes a good frame of reference once you find the ballpark for a "good" diff and you can then make rough comparisons this way.
The BIG key with diffs is to remember that once you're close you only NUDGE the adjusting nut. Even 1/16 turn either way is too much. Sneak up on it and you'll be happy.
__________________ "Team" Terribles...wtf???!!!...could ANYTHING be closer to a diet crouton? President, Magic City RC...see us at http://www.magiccityrc.com Proud member of ROAR # 11-10690 and One of the Region 11 seventeen (we know who we are!!)
. . . guess you'll have some tweek issues . . .i wouldn't dare to have electronics/batteries exceding out of the chassis,particularly with lipo's.
My buddy got mine to tweak out pretty good with the biased set up like that (battery on one side). I had a bigger battery too (1100) and I never had problems with it getting smashed. The body and tires do a pretty good job protecting everything.
Similar Threads