Robitronics Scalpel 1/18th Pan Car?

[JOKERRACING]

Here is my take on the days events. Ran 12 packs today and did some mild tweeking throughout. There were only two of use and we did have our fair share of bashing not beating though. The car held up great, very durable, actually no complaints. Tire wear was acceptable and no chunking took place. I did dope all four tires entirely. THe car is very predictable and has a ton of turn in. I did take out some steering & throttle expotential to settle the car down just a little. Our lap times were at least two seconds quicker than the M18 and just a lot easier and more fun to drive.

I welcome this car with open arms and will be shelving my M18. Actually I don't think it's fair to compare the M18 with the Scalpel, they are two entirely diferent cars and each one has there own place. I'm just partial to the pan cars. For what it's worth, good luck to everyone and run what you like.

JOKER

[Bermbuster]

Originally Posted by JOKERRACING

The car held up great, very durable, actually no complaints. Tire wear was acceptable and no chunking took place. I did dope all four tires entirely. THe car is very predictable and has a ton of turn in. I did take out some steering & throttle expotential to settle the car down just a little. Our lap times were at least two seconds quicker than the M18 and just a lot easier and more fun to drive. JOKER

Thats just what I wanted to hear.....now I am looking forward to getting and building mine. Thanks Joker

[N.Smrt]

Don't shelve that M18 just yet. Besides, why not run 2 classes? 2WD and 4WD. This is my 3rd season racing my M18. I've got a Scalpel too. Very cool. I think the car has potential but it is not without its more than fair share of limits and kinks that need ironing (chassis space, servo location and steering geometry and weak t-bar). Badass lookin body though and top-notch craftmanship throughout. I took my Scalpel (4 cell equipped with mamba 8000) to two different tracks in the last week. One track that was about 18 X 40 or so and the track that will be hosting the upcoming Micro Championships in Indiana: Indy Slots. Indy slots is really a 1/10 or 1/12 scale track but holds weekly club races for micros too. There track was set up more wide open. The two tracks offered enough variety to feel out the Scalpel. I've been on tracks with my M18 from the smallest to tracks that make 1/18 scale cars feel like a gas sedan at Cincinatti's World's track. Back to the Scalpel. The t-bar is a weak spot on the car for sure and not a very fast thing to change. One way to help prevent t-bar breakage is to take a cut-off wheel on a dremel and cut off the extra threads hanging out past the wheel nuts. Mark the threads with a silver sharpee that hang out. Then take the wheel nuts off before you cut or you'll melt the nylon inside of the locknuts. The spline of the servo needs to be dead center down the middle of the chassis so that the tie-rods are of equal length. It should also be mounted on a wedge so as to kick the servo back about 30 degrees or so. The servo can be mounted alternatively behind the front wheels like a 1/12 scale the way it should be but this kills even more of the already too small chassis space. Where there is a will there is a way. You can reinforce the tbar with a piece of graphite bolted accross the two screws that hold the t-bar to the rear pod. The only way to make more space on the chassis short of cutting a longer chassis is to use lipos. Longer wheelbase may or may not be a good thing anyway depending on traction and size of the track you may be running on. You can transform a 2-cell lipo battery (preferably 1320 mah from Thunderpower) into a saddle pack. I'm not going to get into this but it can be done. Who here doesn't like to venture into the unknown? This is not safe and you may destroy one or more batteries before you get it right. Using saddle pack configuration of a 2-cell lipo will allow you to mount a mamba speed control on one side and a micro spektrum receiver on the other. 4-cell Nimh power was as fast as 4WD cars equipped with mamba 8000's and 2- cell lipos but emagine how much faster if you could hang on? You can always just mount an unmodified lipo on one side but not if you want balanced weight distribution and proper steering geometry symmetry. (The servo can't be mounted in front of the front tires because the suspension arms are in the way to get the servo's spline centerline chassis.) The unsymmetrical steering geometry the car has out of the box does two things to handling: On right hand turns the inside wheel can flop around because the right-side tie-rod goes completey perpindicular to the centerline of the chassis. You always want the tie-rods to be slightly angled back anyway on a car. This makes the car inconsistant on some right hand turns when the wheels may be cranked to the right (the sweeper at the end of the straightaway.) The car turns ok to the right except for that but then pushes to the left. The car is balanced too (static weight and tweek screws, everything.) The car has potential but to get everything out of it, THERE IS SOME WRENCHING TO BE DONE! I'll be driving my M18.

[JSJ Racing]

Originally Posted by JOKERRACING

Here is my take on the days events. Ran 12 packs today and did some mild tweeking throughout. There were only two of use and we did have our fair share of bashing not beating though. The car held up great, very durable, actually no complaints. Tire wear was acceptable and no chunking took place. I did dope all four tires entirely. THe car is very predictable and has a ton of turn in. I did take out some steering & throttle expotential to settle the car down just a little. Our lap times were at least two seconds quicker than the M18 and just a lot easier and more fun to drive.

I welcome this car with open arms and will be shelving my M18. Actually I don't think it's fair to compare the M18 with the Scalpel, they are two entirely diferent cars and each one has there own place. I'm just partial to the pan cars. For what it's worth, good luck to everyone and run what you like.

JOKER

Joker and I had a blast today running the Scalpels. You may want to use some blue thread loc on the bottom screws going into the motor pod plates. I had one fall out. Also be sure and use some thread lock on the nuts holding the springs on the dampner posts. The upper nut works it way loose if you do not. On our little track the stock motor was fast enough but I am sure a brushless motor will come soon. Motor never came off the track hotter than 140 degree and this was after over 16 minutes of run time. I am up loading a video to youtube as I post this. I will post a link when it is done. 80 meg file....

[oXYnary]

nm

[JSJ Racing]

Video of Scalpels - 1st Day of Test and Tune at Kingdrome

[JSJ Racing]

Has anyone ever come out with a servo with the output shaft in the middle?

[N.Smrt]

thats a good question about the sevo with the output shaft in the middle but I've never heard of one and I have over 3 years of hobbyshop experience. That would help out big time. Happy New Years!

[JOKERRACING]

Great video Scotty, wish George was there. Maybe next time we can open the door and raise the camera up high.

O.K. maybe I was over reacting. I'll keep the M18 handy. I was just so darn impressed with the Scalpel. Actually I was thinking of getting the new M18 Pro and run both of them.

Lets see some more pics & videos folks.

[Bermbuster]

sorry to hi jack a thread but here is the info on the Mini Nats at
RC Madness.....this is the 4th annual event....

Team Associated, R/C Driver & Castle Creations
Presents

2007 1/18 Indoor Off Road Nationals

April 13, 14 & 15

Only at R/C Madness in Enfield, CT



$35.00 for the first class (includes a race shirt)
$30.00 each additional class

Top ten in ALL “A” Mains receive awards
Top three in all other mains receive awards

Handout motors in specified classes provided by Reedy

Friday Open practice until 7:00 Club Race starts at 7:00

Saturday 2 rounds of IFMAR qualifying
Sunday one round of last chance IFMAR qualifying followed by mains

Don’t forget the “Super Main” following the “a” Mains where the best drivers & vehicles will compete together for the Manufactures Cup!

TQ awards sponsored by R/C Driver magazine

Best Paint competition on Sunday sponsored by www.radiocontrolentertainment.com

Xtreme Performance awards provided by Xtreme R/C Cars magazine

Class 1:
4wd Stock Class (Stadium Style)
Sponsored By Reedy
NO modifications to the factory stock chassis
1/18 Rubber Tires ONLY, No touring car tires, No Hex Adapters
Handout Reedy Mini Mod Motor ONLY
No disassembling or altering the motor
Open Electronics
5 or 6 Cells 2/3A Type Battery Packs ONLY (7.2 volts max)
Must use a stadium style truck body

Class 2:
4wd Modified Class (Stadium Style)
Sponsored By Team Associated
Open Chassis
Brushed Motors Up to, not exceeding, 300 in size, No Brushless Motors Allowed
Open 1/18 Tires including foams; No Touring Car Tires, No Hex Adapters
Open Electronics
Battery Voltage not to exceed 8.4 Volts
Must use a stadium style truck body

Class 3:
4wd Brushless/Unlimited Class (Stadium Style)
Sponsored By Quark Brushless
Open Chassis
Open Brushless Motor (only one motor)
Open 1/18 Tires including foams. No Touring Car Tires, No Hex Adapters
Open Electronics
Unlimited Battery Voltage
Must use a stadium style truck body

Class 4:
2wd Stock Class (Stadium Style/Baja)
Sponsored by Team Losi
NO modifications to the factory stock chassis
1/18 Rubber Tires ONLY, No touring car tires, No Hex Adapters
Handout Reedy Mini Mod Motor ONLY
No disassembling or altering the motor
Open Electronics
5 or 6 Cells 2/3A Type Battery Packs ONLY (7.2 volts max)
Must use a stadium style truck body or Baja Bug Body

Class 5:
2wd Modified Class (Stadium Style)
Sponsored by Team Scream
Open Chassis
Brushed Motors Up to, not exceeding, 300 in size, No Brushless Motors Allowed
Open 1/18 Tires including foams. No Touring Car Tires, No Hex Adapters
Open Electronics
Battery Voltage not to exceed 8.4 Volts
Must use a stadium style truck body or Baja Bug Body
Class 6:
2wd Brushless/Unlimited Class (Stadium Style)
Sponsored By Team Tekin
Open Chassis
Open Brushless Motor
Open 1/18 Tires including foams; No Touring Car Tires, No Hex Adapters
Open Electronics
Unlimited Battery Voltage
Must use a stadium style truck body or Baja Bug Body

Class 7:
Mini Monster Open
Sponsored by Duratrax
Open Chassis
Open Motor(s) not to exceed 2. Brushed or Brushless
No Foam Tire or touring car tires, 1/18th Monster Truck Tires ONLY
Tires must be AT LEAST 2 ½” tall when mounted on rims
Open Electronics
Unlimited Battery Voltage
Must use a Mini Monster type truck body or Stadium Truck Body

Class 8:
Novice Class
Sponsored by SMC
12-Years-Old or Younger ONLY (no 'ringers')
Must Run Stock Factory Chassis
NO modifications to the stock chassis
1/18 Rubber Tires ONLY, No Touring Car Tires
Factory Stock Speed Control ONLY
No disassembling or altering the motor
5 or 6 Cells Pre-Built 2/3A Type Battery Packs ONLY. (7.2 volts)


Class 9:
1/18 Buggy Open
Sponsored by ApogeePacks.com
Open Chassis
Open Motor
1/18 Rubber Buggy Tires. No Touring Car Sized Tires or Foam Tires or Hex Adapters
Must run narrow front tires, (similar to the RC18B or Duratrax Vendetta)
Front tires must be less than 1” wide when mounted on rims
No truck front tires/rims. (No wide front tires/rims)
Open Electronics
Open battery voltage
Must run a buggy body with wing

Class 10:
1/18 Buggy Stock/Spec (RC18B, Vendetta ONLY!)
Sponsored by Duratrax
Must Run Stock Factory Chassis.
NO modifications to the factory stock chassis
Factory Tires & Rims ONLY. NO Aftermarket Tires or Rims
Must use factory motor. (The motor that came with the car)
No disassembling or altering the motor in any way
Must use factory speed control & servo.
The ONLY allowable upgrades are as follows: adjustable turnbuckles,
motor heat sink, and aluminum steering knuckles on the Vendetta.
May use different battery connectors.
NO OTHER CHANGES ALLOWED
5 or 6 Cells 2/3A Type Battery Packs ONLY (7.2 volts max)
Must use stock buggy body and wing. May be custom painted

Class 11:
18R Onroad Class (RC18R ONLY)
Sponsored by Team Associated
Must Run Stock Factory Chassis.
NO modifications to the factory stock chassis
Factory Tires & Rims ONLY. NO Aftermarket Tires or Rims
Hand-out Reedy Mod Motor
No disassembling or altering the motor
The ONLY allowable upgrades are as follows:
adjustable turnbuckles, motor heat sink,
Must use factory speed control & servo.
5 or 6 Cells 2/3A Type Battery Packs ONLY (7.2 volts max)
Must use stock AE Citroen, Kamino, Mitusbishi or other 18R bodies made by AE.
Bodies may be custom painted

Misc……
These rules were made to accommodate the majority of hobby shop grade 1/18 vehicles on the market as of 12-1-06. They include the RC18 series, Mini T, M18T, M18MT Mini LST, Baja Bug, Mini Quake, Vendetta, MiniZilla, Mini Giant, Spyder, Blade, Thunder Tiger ZT2, Thunder Tiger ZK2, LRP Shark Truck or equivalent. The Mini Inferno ST is allowed to run in the Mini Monster class
• Aftermarket chassis is allowed in all classes but it may not make the vehicle wider or longer than intended by the manufacturer (except for classes 8, 10 and 11)
• Aftermarket A-Arms are allowed in all classes but they may not make the vehicle wider than intended by the manufacturer (except for classes 10 and 11)
• No Sub C sized cells in ANY class
• No 540 Sized motors in any class

[Afro Puff]

What class can I race my Scalpel in

[Bermbuster]

RC Madness will have onroad National race in the Fall of 07.....
with a class for the Scalpel

[JOKERRACING]

We need harder front tires.

[Afro Puff]

Werd.

[bigb11]

Originally Posted by Bermbuster

RC Madness will have onroad National race in the Fall of 07.....
with a class for the Scalpel

it would be nice if they did. if they promote it right it could be a big event.