ok guys i decided i wana get a rc18 but which 1?......is the rc18t just a version with bigger tyres and different body? or has it got diff shock towers,diff chassis,diff arms etcc........
PLEASE help me out on this and please tell me wat i should look out for when using brushless...like diffs blowing up etc
o and i wana get the factory team kit in either one so yeah..mabe that helps
the rc18b uses different shock towers,wing mount,tires/wheels and body.
The top plate was different on early models of the rc18s but i believe they are the same now(newer one has buggy body mount molded onto it)
Just remember there is not a lot of room under the buggy body...you need micro electronics........
The FT kits come with really good hop ups. You will want to replace the aluminum dog bones with the MIP cvds....$20us per pair....
I told you the rc18s are durable and squirrelly.....this is because the plastic is flexy.....the dogbones usually pop out after a hard crash(flexing) With luck you can find the bone and the little spring.....(main reason for using cvds)
Next you need to tighten up the steering.....DP draglink and a small oring on the servo saver does the trick. I forgot to mention one more hop up....a front bumper. Get either the rpm or a tbone.......
Start from there and see what else you will need. Most likely not much.
im guess the dogbones pop out because the outdrives are plastic right?
well im gona be putting some 5/16 pressure fittings on like they have done on www.beatyourtruck.com with their rc18b and my electrics are fairly small...
is the B any faster than the T? im guessing it might be?
and if i do get either wat should be the gearing? im gona be using 11.1v lipo wtih 5400kv motor
the bones pop from the flex in the plastic chassis/top plate(makes the vehicle durable....some people love it some hate it) When plastic is made hard or cannot flex it usually breaks under hard impact. If the flex hampers your style get the diggity cf top plate and or chassis....DP is releasing a chassis very soon as well. Others make stiffer chassis as well.
new FT kits come with the outdrive sleeves.....
Try 60/14......check your temps....
the bones pop from the flex in the plastic chassis/top plate(makes the vehicle durable....some people love it some hate it) When plastic is made hard or cannot flex it usually breaks under hard impact. If the flex hampers your style get the diggity cf top plate and or chassis....DP is releasing a chassis very soon as well. Others make stiffer chassis as well.
new FT kits come with the outdrive sleeves.....
Try 60/14......check your temps....
i got a 15tooth golden horizons pinion that i bought for my mini t.....will that work?
and wat dogbones r u talking bout? i dont see how the top plate or chassis flexing will cause the dogbones to pop out
you get 3 pinions with the FT kit.....15t maybe too large....
if the chassis flexes the outdrive moves and the space between the outdrive and axle cup become greater than the length of the dogbone so it falls out.....this happens during a crash......not under normal running conditions....
the 18B shouldn't be any faster than the 18T, they have the same gears, same motor, just a different body and wheels. I'd get the 18T so you can convert to the 18B or the 18MT
If you get the 18T, to convert to the b you will need the following...
so wat i belive is that the only things that are different are the wheels,tyres,shocktowers,body,wing
i got another Q......if i get the rc18t could i buy the buggy wing mount to make it look like a truggy?....like u can do with the mini inferno st...that accepts the inferno buggy wing mount...
and if im putting brushless in it...5400kv with 3 cell lipo....wat gearing and wat should i immediatly upgrade? im gona try prevent problems lol
also i have my mini t up for sale.....pm me if ne1 is intersted....also my savage is for sale too lol
the wing will mount on the T shock tower. You just need to trim the T body for it to work.
As far as bulletproofing the drivetrain.....get a bag of shims for the outdrives.
The FT kit comes with carbide diff balls....make sure your d rings are flat(hone them on a flat plate) and glue them to the outdrive. Use AE stealth grease when assembling the diffs and they will operate smooooth........Use the shims to take out the side play of the diff in its housing (usually 1 or 2 shims do this)
the wing will mount on the T shock tower. You just need to trim the T body for it to work.
As far as bulletproofing the drivetrain.....get a bag of shims for the outdrives.
The FT kit comes with carbide diff balls....make sure your d rings are flat(hone them on a flat plate) and glue them to the outdrive. Use AE stealth grease when assembling the diffs and they will operate smooooth........Use the shims to take out the side play of the diff in its housing (usually 1 or 2 shims do this)
wat does "hone" mean?
r u trying to say that i glue the d ring to the outdrive? which outdrive? ....im confused :S and for the shims wat size r they? and cant i use normal greasE?
maybe you should go to www.competitionx.com and download the manual for the rc18t. This way you can familiarize yourself with the truck and its parts.
honing or lapping the d drings is easy. You get a flat surface and put a pc of fine sandpaper on it now rub the the d ring over the sandpaper. Try to use a figure 8 pattern (cloverleaf is even better) when rubbing.....this will hone the surface flat......
Normal grease is just that normal
....you want some slicker than snot stuff.....
Difference RC18T and RC18B HELP! URGENT!
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