how the half8 handling in the track compare to a micro and compare to a 1/10 sedan?
please let me know
What type of track?
Offroad?
-as good as it's bigger brother. Full tuning possible due to same platform.
Onroad?
-Not as great due to it's limited height adjustments from being primarily an offroad buggy. The arms are too short and will give excess roll. Unless you modify the car and put ST arms which will give you an inch in total width.
- I love my H8 on 1/10th carpet tracks and will not come up short with the Touring Cars I run with.
after watching that video im not going to sell my h8. i built it and ran it once then fully hop-it-up and ad bl and haven't had the time to test it so i think im going to take it out the closet and c what it can do.thanks fav0re.but that's what happens when u own 42 cars u know some aint going to get luve all the time lol.
Post some pics/vids of your setup as well. I would like to see what other people are doing besides on Half-8.com. I wasn't even at full throttle due to the diffs blowing up. I know the 3S Lipo pack will destroy the inexpensive F/R diffs.
I am interested in what you used for mounting the touring wheels. I know that must be an adaptor. also, is there better diffs for this. I keep stripping mine. I'm thinking about redoing the driveline to go direct with a brussless and doing away with the center diff.
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don't listen to me, unless you want to hear some Under-Handed Bull-**crap** :)
I am interested in what you used for mounting the touring wheels. I know that must be an adaptor. also, is there better diffs for this. I keep stripping mine. I'm thinking about redoing the driveline to go direct with a brussless and doing away with the center diff.
I am interested in what you used for mounting the touring wheels. I know that must be an adaptor. also, is there better diffs for this. I keep stripping mine. I'm thinking about redoing the driveline to go direct with a brussless and doing away with the center diff.
I used these for the F/R diffs: LINK
The ATOMIC Type II's are much stronger than any diff out there. I love the construction of this thing. They knew the problem and fixed it. I too had the frustration of stripping stock diffs. I initially went with the 3racing diffs but it had the same diff contruction as the RC18T's with the long 1.5mm screw and locknut holding the whole diff together. It kept on unscrewing on me from the explosive ESC/Motor I have, no matter how much loctite I used. I you listen carefully from the videos on the 2nd post from this thread, you can hear the diffs about to give up. I have probably taken the diffs apart more than 21 times but never with the new ATOMIC's. From my experience, if you want to do it right and save money, go with the Atomic Type II's.
so u say those diffs on the link are the one's u use and they are indestructible
and wont come apart when power is apply'd to them ?.
and how about center diff.
so u say those diffs on the link are the one's u use and they are indestructible
and wont come apart when power is apply'd to them ?.
and how about center diff.
Nothing is indestructable. I haven't had any issues with the Atomic Type II's. Give me a second and I'll post a video on the construction. Many people have discovered the ST diff's work well but I haven't gone that route yet even though it's much cheaper in price than the Atomics.
Here's the video...note the knurled knob for adjusting the tightness. It doesn't accidentally back out. They eliminated the long screw and nut idea to hold the entire assembly together. Adjustment is quicker by taking the diff housing off rather than replacing the nylon locknut after a few adjustments due to wear and tear.
cool,
im going to order those diffs and try them out.
i forgot the company name of the one's i have they are gear diff that u fill with oil they work good but i do like the construction of those.
*Half 8 Picture/Video Gallery*
h8
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