RoostAZ

Well I have a mamba 8000 system in my 18t and am having cogging problems. I was told to get a beffier battery, right now I have a 6 cell intellect 1400 mini battery, I have some old 2400's from my XXX-T that I was wondering if I could use to make a massive power packing battery. I was thinking I could probably put 8-10 cells crammed in that thing, but can the mamba handle it, im sure it can because it could survive with a 4 cell lipo (at least for a little bit). Just wondering about the precautions I should take while making some crazy packs, they are also not mini cells, so Im just not sure on the technecalities. Like do I have to re-program the voltage cutoff? If so, to what?

Ryan14

iTrader: (1)

The ib 1400's should fix the cogging problem but you may also want to try upgrading the wires on the battery to 16awg "16 gauge wire" or bigger, If this does not fix the cogging problem, I would suggest getting the castle link for the mamba, It plugs into your computer and allows you to do alot more progamming than just with your tranmitter. You can change the throttle curve so that it is much smoother and that should eliminate the cogging.

Here's the link

http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...stle_link.html

hope this helps

RoostAZ

yeah I have seen the castle link, I was gonna get it just seeing if there is a way to get around it, but I will just get it. Upgrading guage wires could help too. thanks

thachowman

iTrader: (28)

You could also try using a power cap, like what is found on most high end 1/10 ESC something like a 4700uf cap should be heaps, I have yet to try it on my mambe setup but a mate of mine has and it elimated most if not all of the cogging issues, it also helped the "lag" from using the 8000 kv motor, or just strap in a 3s lipo and run it on 11.1v, you will find that you will be more than happy with that, I imagine that building packs out of older 2400 sub c would be not benificial due to the weight issues in a 1/18 truck. Even with a 2s 7.4 lipo would be heaps, just adjust the cut off voltage corrtctly so as not to destroy the lipo packs.

RoostAZ

Yeah this whole LiPO thing keeps nagging me. I know I need to do it, but it's just so much money for it all. Then again I can sell all my old nimh/mah stuff and get a couple lipo batt's for my 1/10 and 1/18 scales and a charger, easier said than done, but I will look into it. Anyone know of cheap chargers and batteries? Also, what is a power cap, sounds like I want one...

rm25x

iTrader: (12)

Problem is going to be mostly with gearing. I bet if you drop 2 teeth it would go away, top speed might even be higher, and it will run longer and cooler. It should still rip with the IB 1400's. I can run a stock pack on mine without a problem. (Although Lipo is a giant improvement, 2C is what I run) Hope that helps.

thachowman

iTrader: (28)

Here's a novak one from Tower
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXADX1&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEWT9&P=0

You just solder then onto the positive and negative power wires into the speedy

you can go here for some instructions (LRP Quamtum ones ) but basically the same idea http://www.lrp-electronic.de/e/main_frameset_e.htm and scroll down to Quantum Competition Worlds Option Kit # 82820 2003-10-07 373 kB 93 sec. / 53 sec. 1396 and down load .

Hope this helps

rm25x

iTrader: (12)

I doubt the power cap will help your problem. I would bump up the start power first, it would be the same thing as adding the power cap. I still think your overgeared though.

RoostAZ

So wait, I am running the stock gearing, 10t pinion (i think) and stock spur. Are you saying drop it to like an 8t pinion? that just seems way to low. and that my top speed would be killed

duneland

From day one, Castle has blamed the stuttering on batteries or connectors.
My first one would stutter badly even when attatched to a 1/10 scale sub c pack! (no load, on car stand).
The stuttering has mysteriously been cured with their later software versions!
Get a pheonix link and update with your pc. Problem will likely go away.

ProudSavageOwnr

hmm....does ne1 know if this is a problem with the 5400kv motor aswell? im gona get getting mamba 25 system with 5400kv motor and i got some venom 1200mah 7 cell and if i want i can go upto 9 cell or asmany cells i can shove in it......i also have a 2 cell 800mah lipo...

wat exactly causes the cogging? and is like cogging or stuttering? .... somthing like a non smooth powerband?....wen i go near a colourbond/tin fence or near alot of metal my mini t stock electronics sorta like "stutter".....is that wat happens with the mamba aswell?.....i hope not

duneland

The term 'cogging' has been incorrectly applied the stuttering & hesitation, that is not un-common in sensorless brushless systems. Brushless systems work by firing the coils sequentially, drawing the magnets (on the armature) around. The esc has no idea where the armature is positioned, & has to guess which coil to fire first. If it guesses incorrectly, the armature can hesitate or even go back and forth for a bit. The term 'cogging' allready has job. That is, to define the normal characteristic of a brushed, permanent magnet motor. The act of the magnets drawing the armature around in small lunges. much like an automobile with a performance cam, when idled around in first gear! This is observed when turning an un-powered pm motor by hand, or driving at very low speeds. It does not cause any delay in start-up, and is generally not any kind of problem.
What we see in bl systems is very different. The abnormal (and undesirable) movement of the armature, is a direct result of the armature being in the wrong place at the wrong time (or more acurately; the esc failing to recognize the exact postion of the arm in reationship to the coils). As software advances are made, the problem dimenishes. The latest software versions from Castle, are pretty much free of problems. I have not been able to get a Tekin to work adaquetly yet. The Quark is awsome so far.
Castles approach of letting the user upgrade with a pc link is a great approach. It is incredibly easy to change the profiles of your esc, as well as getting the latest software developments installed in your esc.

ProudSavageOwnr

kool man....thanks for the reply

do u own all 3? the quark,tekin and mamba?....if so wats better out of the 3? is the mamba any good? it seems that thats the only 1 i can get....

duneland

The Mamba is very good. HIGHLY recomend the pc link.
I think the Quark is best. Since we are out of the micro season right now, I have done very little testing on the Quark, but so far it seems best.
I like the Tekin case, solder posts, and programming ease. However, I could not get it to work without hesitation from dead stop & sometimes low speed corners.

ProudSavageOwnr

hey duneland man.....i see u have quite a few brushless systems....would u want to trade the mamba 25 and the motor for a hpi k4.6 (.28) engine? its out of my 4.6 ss kit and i need to sell it cause i want money for a mamba system.....

if u are interested plz pm me