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Old 06-26-2006, 06:48 AM   #1
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Default Xray M18

Tells us what you run in your M18. What kind of hop-ups work, and which don't. Share your set-ups and pics too.
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:17 AM   #2
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Here, I'll start:

This is my Penguin M18. It has the opt. 6* arms up front, 2.5* rear toe-in linkages, Atomic adjustable shocks, Xray ball diffs front and back, Atomic heatsink w/ fan mounted on the side ( which I have recently switched to having the motor mounted in the center and custom making a fan mount ), I'm running a Novak Micro GT esc, Futaba 3101 servo, stock can motor, and 6 Intellect 1200 cells.
My Motek M18 (not pictured) is set up for mod racing. It has the Atomic adjustable shocks, Atomic springs, Xray ball diffs front and rear, I cut the top deck to allow for installing the Penguin shock mounts, adjustable front and rear toe linkages, Atomic aluminum drive shafts (I do not recommend these), Futaba 3101 servo, Quantum 2 esc, Intellect 1200's, Reedy MiniMax motor with an Atomic fan clipped onto it's side.
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:26 AM   #3
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Penguin 7500 chassis
Penguin 7502S Upper brace
GQ tires
X-Ray Ball diffs front and rear
X-Ray Aluminum Motor Mount
X-Ray 6* Arms
Atomic Blue Springs front
Stock X-Ray Springs Rear
adjustable toe-in on rear
Futaba 3101 servo w/ small Kimbrough servo saver
Venom Fireball (track rules)
IB 1200 5 cell (track rules)
LRP Quantum Sport
JR RS 310

Nice paint, KT.
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:16 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killingtime
Here, I'll start:

This is my Penguin M18. It has the opt. 6* arms up front, 2.5* rear toe-in linkages, Atomic adjustable shocks, Xray ball diffs front and back, Atomic heatsink w/ fan mounted on the side ( which I have recently switched to having the motor mounted in the center and custom making a fan mount ), I'm running a Novak Micro GT esc, Futaba 3101 servo, stock can motor, and 6 Intellect 1200 cells.
My Motek M18 (not pictured) is set up for mod racing. It has the Atomic adjustable shocks, Atomic springs, Xray ball diffs front and rear, I cut the top deck to allow for installing the Penguin shock mounts, adjustable front and rear toe linkages, Atomic aluminum drive shafts (I do not recommend these), Futaba 3101 servo, Quantum 2 esc, Intellect 1200's, Reedy MiniMax motor with an Atomic fan clipped onto it's side.

Why don't you reccomend the Atomis driveshafts ? I looking at getting a set.
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:28 AM   #5
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Thanks BadSign!

Chowman - the atomic driveshafts have a problem coming apart. There is a pin that is pressed into place that connects the "dogbone-ish" part to the hub. In 10th scale there would be a grub screw to tighten, but they don't have one here. Also, I've had issues with the pin at the other end the connects up with the diff outdrives, coming out in the middle of a race. MAYBE the "new" Atomic driveshafts are better. I've seen them on rcmart.com, the new "racing" version. I don't see much difference though. This should not be a slap in the face to Atomic though. From what I've heard alot of people have had the same issues with other brands....even the expensive Xray driveshafts. For now, I went back to the plastic and try harder to avoid the walls!
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Old 06-26-2006, 10:16 AM   #6
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I have a Motek Panther Chassis (150mm)
running a 6800 Mamba and it's silly fast with 6 cells...

I need to replace the stock diffs badly, I figured I'd wait till I toasted them with the brushless...
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Old 06-26-2006, 12:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadSign
....
Futaba 3101 servo w/ small Kimbrough servo saver

If you ever have to replace that servo saver, try out the newer Xray unit with the double rings. Best one I've had with the least amount of slop.

btw - BadSign, who does your paint?
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Old 06-26-2006, 01:17 PM   #8
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the newer atomic universal aren't any better, they all pretty much come apart...the best ones i have used are JWERKs
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Old 06-26-2006, 01:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acsubie
the newer atomic universal aren't any better, they all pretty much come apart...the best ones i have used are JWERKs
Where are you getting the Jwerks stuff? I've heard good things about them.
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Old 06-26-2006, 02:08 PM   #10
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jwerks is top notch!!

CVD
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Old 06-26-2006, 02:22 PM   #11
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I'll get pics of mine up sooner or later. It was originally a NT18, but I converted it because I found the Mamba system to be faster. It has a Penguin P2500 chassis, Mamba 8000kV BL system, powered by a 3 cell LiPo. Got it to do 40+ MPH in a empty parking lot, but I hit a pothole, made it roll about 20 times for about 30 feet. Now it sits in my pit at the hobby shop awaiting a new upperdeck, A-arms, rear diff. case, shocks/springs, bevel gear and a rear diff. Good times.
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Old 06-26-2006, 04:20 PM   #12
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Ok, I guess I'll post one of mine, it also has the Motek R2(150mm) chassis on it, but really not much else, we just run some cheap 280-size motors(the ones that come with the AE RC18T kit), with 6-cell batteries, gives us all the speed we want & alot of VERY close racing, without tearing up universals or diffs. The right chassis is really all we need(& a proper setup).....
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Old 06-26-2006, 05:59 PM   #13
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KT: I've tried the Atomic and found it had too much slop, so I went back to the Kimbrough. I may try the X-Ray some time.

I paint all my own stuff. (advantage of being an artist/art teacher). Here's my latest 10th scale.
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Old 06-26-2006, 06:03 PM   #14
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acsubie, strange to see your avatar w/out "moderator" written underneath.
Good to see ya!
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:14 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadSign
KT: I've tried the Atomic and found it had too much slop, so I went back to the Kimbrough. I may try the X-Ray some time.

I paint all my own stuff. (advantage of being an artist/art teacher). Here's my latest 10th scale.
I tried the Atomic too....bleh, way too much slop!

Your paintwork is great. I like seeing something other than recreations of everything else out there.
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