This is my Penguin M18. It has the opt. 6* arms up front, 2.5* rear toe-in linkages, Atomic adjustable shocks, Xray ball diffs front and back, Atomic heatsink w/ fan mounted on the side ( which I have recently switched to having the motor mounted in the center and custom making a fan mount ), I'm running a Novak Micro GT esc, Futaba 3101 servo, stock can motor, and 6 Intellect 1200 cells.
My Motek M18 (not pictured) is set up for mod racing. It has the Atomic adjustable shocks, Atomic springs, Xray ball diffs front and rear, I cut the top deck to allow for installing the Penguin shock mounts, adjustable front and rear toe linkages, Atomic aluminum drive shafts (I do not recommend these), Futaba 3101 servo, Quantum 2 esc, Intellect 1200's, Reedy MiniMax motor with an Atomic fan clipped onto it's side.
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Mike Webb
rD Squared-MW Designs-Final Thoughts RC club
This is my Penguin M18. It has the opt. 6* arms up front, 2.5* rear toe-in linkages, Atomic adjustable shocks, Xray ball diffs front and back, Atomic heatsink w/ fan mounted on the side ( which I have recently switched to having the motor mounted in the center and custom making a fan mount ), I'm running a Novak Micro GT esc, Futaba 3101 servo, stock can motor, and 6 Intellect 1200 cells.
My Motek M18 (not pictured) is set up for mod racing. It has the Atomic adjustable shocks, Atomic springs, Xray ball diffs front and rear, I cut the top deck to allow for installing the Penguin shock mounts, adjustable front and rear toe linkages, Atomic aluminum drive shafts (I do not recommend these), Futaba 3101 servo, Quantum 2 esc, Intellect 1200's, Reedy MiniMax motor with an Atomic fan clipped onto it's side.
Why don't you reccomend the Atomis driveshafts ? I looking at getting a set.
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Cheers
Chow......
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Action R/C Team Schumacher Driver
Schumacher Mi4 -Mi3 - LRP - Spektrum - Ko - Action R/C
Chowman - the atomic driveshafts have a problem coming apart. There is a pin that is pressed into place that connects the "dogbone-ish" part to the hub. In 10th scale there would be a grub screw to tighten, but they don't have one here. Also, I've had issues with the pin at the other end the connects up with the diff outdrives, coming out in the middle of a race. MAYBE the "new" Atomic driveshafts are better. I've seen them on rcmart.com, the new "racing" version. I don't see much difference though. This should not be a slap in the face to Atomic though. From what I've heard alot of people have had the same issues with other brands....even the expensive Xray driveshafts. For now, I went back to the plastic and try harder to avoid the walls!
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Mike Webb
rD Squared-MW Designs-Final Thoughts RC club
I have a Motek Panther Chassis (150mm)
running a 6800 Mamba and it's silly fast with 6 cells...
I need to replace the stock diffs badly, I figured I'd wait till I toasted them with the brushless...
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[B][FONT=Comic Sans MS][I]FG EVO 07[URL="http://www.nomadio.net"][SIZE=3][COLOR=Red][/COLOR][/SIZE][/URL]
[/I][/FONT][/B][FONT=Arial Black][COLOR=Blue][B][FONT=Comic Sans MS][URL="http://www.limodelracers.org/"][COLOR=Red]LIMRA[/COLOR][/URL][/FONT][/B] [/COLOR][/FONT]
I'll get pics of mine up sooner or later. It was originally a NT18, but I converted it because I found the Mamba system to be faster. It has a Penguin P2500 chassis, Mamba 8000kV BL system, powered by a 3 cell LiPo. Got it to do 40+ MPH in a empty parking lot, but I hit a pothole, made it roll about 20 times for about 30 feet. Now it sits in my pit at the hobby shop awaiting a new upperdeck, A-arms, rear diff. case, shocks/springs, bevel gear and a rear diff. Good times.
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E-Revo / Mini E-Revo VXL / TB-02
Ok, I guess I'll post one of mine, it also has the Motek R2(150mm) chassis on it, but really not much else, we just run some cheap 280-size motors(the ones that come with the AE RC18T kit), with 6-cell batteries, gives us all the speed we want & alot of VERY close racing, without tearing up universals or diffs. The right chassis is really all we need(& a proper setup).....