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Old 07-07-2006, 02:28 PM   #61
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Hello everyone,

Questions: Is sanding down the gear a bit for proper fit and shimming (how much?) the only thing that needs to be done in order to use the associated 18T ball diffs in the M18.

Also, do the M18 stock bearings fit the associated 18T ball diffs with no modifications?

Any other mods to make it work?

Thanx for the help
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Old 07-07-2006, 02:36 PM   #62
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instead of having to hack the AE 18t ball diffs to work in our Xrays a far better/cheaper choice are the M18T(truck) composite ball diffs...they are smoother(have 2 inner bearings unlike the AEs), cost about $20 per diff and are a direct drop in with a perfect fit...the composite outdrives are durable also and mine have yet to notch unlike the xray alloy ones i also have used
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Old 07-07-2006, 06:11 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obsidian
Hello everyone,

Questions: Is sanding down the gear a bit for proper fit and shimming (how much?) the only thing that needs to be done in order to use the associated 18T ball diffs in the M18.

Also, do the M18 stock bearings fit the associated 18T ball diffs with no modifications?

Any other mods to make it work?

Thanx for the help
yes the stock bearings fit just fine. the gear does need to be dremeled a bit. as for shimming, it differs from car to car, but mine needed 1.2 one one side of the diff, and 1.5 on the other
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Old 07-17-2006, 12:04 PM   #64
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Default Testing...

I raced Friday night with 2.5 rear toe rods and atomic blue low springs on the carpet for the first time. My car turns on a dime now and the back end is glued! I was stunned how tight the turning radius is. Just a little test result for you rug racers.

Quick question: Has anyone here tried titanium or aluminum screws, and did you notice a difference in weight?
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Old 07-22-2006, 02:57 AM   #65
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Just wondering if any body has experienced melting the front pinion gear, I was running mine the other day then noticed it handling erraticly, and upon inspection I found the front wheels weren't turning under power, RWD only , I thought easy fix the ball diff has come loose, just tighten it up , not the diff was fine, pull the top gearbox housing off to discover the pinion gearshaft had melted and breaking in two , it was an easy fix as I had a spare , but is this a common fault or weak point? , should I carry a few spares? or is there a heavy duty option available? alloy perhaps? I was running a mamba 8000kv and 7.4 lipo on setting 3 .
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Old 07-22-2006, 04:28 AM   #66
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Not an inherent problem. I have been running the same power combo for years with no gear meltdowns. Look for poor mesh/shimming or frozen bearing as the culpret.
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Old 07-22-2006, 10:00 PM   #67
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I've broke out my M18 again - it's been a while. Are the GRP/Ellegi foams still available in the US any where? If not - what other options are?

Thanks
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Old 07-22-2006, 10:38 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stumper1
I've broke out my M18 again - it's been a while. Are the GRP/Ellegi foams still available in the US any where? If not - what other options are?

Thanks
Not sure about GRP's, but I do know that we can get GQ foams from www.competition-rc.com , & they seem to have some for pretty much ALL kinds of car(including our micros).....
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Old 07-23-2006, 05:50 AM   #69
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rcmart isn't in the us, but they have ellegis for $5 a set.
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Old 07-23-2006, 09:17 AM   #70
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Dinball has the Ellegi's.

Welp, my car has been ran once so far. But after racing MiniZs for awhile, I flat out fell in love with the M18.

Besides the Atomic ball diffs and the 2.5 degree rear toe rods, it was pretty much the stock graphite kit. Im running the Polo Digi 4 servo. Spy speedo, Intellect 1400s, Orion stock motors. I should of known better to buy a low end micro receiver, but, whatta you do?

So last night I ordered a M11 and a Spektrum system with micro receiver, Penguin chassis, Ti screws, adjustable tie rods, and just about everything made for these cars. Thats what happens when you had a few too many adult beverages after a great day of racing a new car for the first time.

Ill take some pics after I get her rebuilt with the upgrades.

Hey Grizzbob. Are you the same Grizz that goes WAY back to the TTT days? This is Biff.

This is where we race in Texas.
http://www.hircr.com/
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Old 07-23-2006, 11:29 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffiB
Dinball has the Ellegi's.

Welp, my car has been ran once so far. But after racing MiniZs for awhile, I flat out fell in love with the M18.

Besides the Atomic ball diffs and the 2.5 degree rear toe rods, it was pretty much the stock graphite kit. Im running the Polo Digi 4 servo. Spy speedo, Intellect 1400s, Orion stock motors. I should of known better to buy a low end micro receiver, but, whatta you do?

So last night I ordered a M11 and a Spektrum system with micro receiver, Penguin chassis, Ti screws, adjustable tie rods, and just about everything made for these cars. Thats what happens when you had a few too many adult beverages after a great day of racing a new car for the first time.

Ill take some pics after I get her rebuilt with the upgrades.

Hey Grizzbob. Are you the same Grizz that goes WAY back to the TTT days? This is Biff.

This is where we race in Texas.
http://www.hircr.com/
Yup, it's me(though I forgot my BRT member number), still going at it in Oklahoma(after MANY job changes & FINALLY a return of carpet to my area, which of course means I'm gettin' back into 1/12 scale)....
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Old 07-23-2006, 11:31 PM   #72
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Any tips for keeping the wheels on?
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:58 AM   #73
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if they don't stay on you need new main wheels.
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Old 07-24-2006, 08:49 AM   #74
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Surprisingly, the Xray foams are just $5 a pair! Anyone who stocks the m18 has access to the tires. They are just as good as the Ellegis were.
Apply some super 77 spray adhesive to a 'q-tip' & spread it on the inner wheels. Allow it to dry first, then install your wheels. That will give your inner-wheels just enough 'tack' to keep you wheels on & still allow for removal.
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Old 07-24-2006, 11:00 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duneland
Surprisingly, the Xray foams are just $5 a pair! Anyone who stocks the m18 has access to the tires. They are just as good as the Ellegis were.
Apply some super 77 spray adhesive to a 'q-tip' & spread it on the inner wheels. Allow it to dry first, then install your wheels. That will give your inner-wheels just enough 'tack' to keep you wheels on & still allow for removal.
Cool - I'll try the X-Ray foams and the glue trick!!
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