Thanks for that Mike, I can't wait to let it rip with the 8000 but for most of the time it will have the stock motor in it as the track is small and tight indoors, but on the 1/10 track 8000 is the got and give the bigger cars a run for their money, I think that I'll also go with the Nosram Hawk for brushed motor duties as it is nice and small and will handle the motor with ease, and as all out power isn't needed on our track it should perform well.
I can see myself spending heaps on this little thing...
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Cheers
Chow......
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Action R/C Team Schumacher Driver
Schumacher Mi4 -Mi3 - LRP - Spektrum - Ko - Action R/C
X Ray Carbon Fibre Chassis kit
Front M18T Ball Diff
Atomic universals (breaking, stock ones are stronger?)
Atomic alloy front bumper
Mamba ESC, Himark 5400KV brushless motor w/ programming cable
IB 1200 6 cell pack
Spectrum Radio gear
X Ray Servo with servo saver
Ellergi foam tyres.
Mazda 6 Bodyshell
36/17 gearing
Stupid fast, easily keeps up with my 1:10 stock car on the straights. Sadly 1:18 onroaders is DEAD here in Australia, just take a look at the AUS RC forum for sale section, they're all selling out!
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HPI - Savage Flux
Traxxas - Slash
....I can see myself spending heaps on this little thing...
YVW
Haha. I told the wife, "Look at it, it's so small, it can't be expensive to race with." If only she knew what I've spent on these cars. My last adventure was trying to explain my way out of the new Hudy micro tire truer that I had on the workbench.
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Mike Webb
rD Squared-MW Designs-Final Thoughts RC club
I've put lot's of time(since whenever the Mamba came out) on the mamba 8k/2c lipo combo in my m18.
My track is fairly small-34' X 19'. I run a 13 pinion/42 spur & adjust the throttle high point to whatever I can handle (usually around 60%).
When going to larger tracks, I just increase the high point to 100% & let er rip!
Who makes good ball diffs that aren't going to cost me as much as the car???
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Who makes good ball diffs that aren't going to cost me as much as the car???
the 18t diffs are a good choice, and are about $9 for each diff, but to install them you need to do 2 things- dremel the diff gear a little so it wont hit the bottom of the case, and shim them accordingly
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Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
The Integy CVDs have the grub screw I was talking about in the previous post!! That damn pin may still come out but at least you now have a way to put it back in!
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Mike Webb
rD Squared-MW Designs-Final Thoughts RC club
the AE 18T diffs are ok...but you will need alot of shims!
my car ended up needing 1.2mm on one side, and 1.5mm on the other
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Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
You can cut a spacer using K & S 11/32 brass tubing. Or you can use a shock spring collar from mini-t shocks. At least I think they were from min-t shocks....got lot's of stuff lying around, just grabbed something that looked like it might work & it worked perfectly.
If you use Xray diffs, go for the ones with composite outdrives. The ones with alum outdrives last me two or three race days. At 35 bucks a pop, that's a bit to rich for my blood.
When using the Asc units, use the outdrive sleaves from the stock gear diffs.
You might need a little adhesive to keep them in place.
Trying to get my M18 race ready and would like to get ball diffs for the front and rear.I've been reading some of the posts here and noticed some people are using ball diffs from other car manufactures... Asc...is that associated? My question is what ball diffs will fit, are inexpensive, strong...in other words, what would you recommend?
Yes we are talking about the Associated 18T ball diffs. They are a good low-priced alternative to the Xray diffs.
As for the outdrives on the Xray diff.... mine seem to wear quite a bit too. But I believe that the CVD's had more to do with it than anything. I noticed that the Xray, Atomic, GPM outdrives use an undersized pin at the end of the CVD were it inserts into the outdrive. It looks as if the pin (at least on mine) has dug into the outdrive because of limited contact. The Integy CVD's pins are noticably larger/longer, so hopefully that will help slow down the wearing out of the Xray outdrives. IMO.
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Mike Webb
rD Squared-MW Designs-Final Thoughts RC club
Aluminum outdrive, steel pin....bad idea! Larger pin should increase life a bit.
My Asc plastic outdrives show NO wear at all! My Integy cvd's lasted about 3 runs before they twisted apart. We have a high grip track and I have major power down.
My last adventure was trying to explain my way out of the new Hudy micro tire truer that I had on the workbench. 
my car ended up needing 1.2mm on one side, and 1.5mm on the other
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