Xray M18
#1531
Tech Regular
Dave B.
#1533
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Hey All,
Any drop in servos people would recommend for a M18 Pro. I bought my car second hand and it has a hitec that has an issue with centering. I'm not really looking to dump a lot of money on a servo, since I don't have much invested in the total build but if all the mid priced servos have centering issues I might be forced to. Was hoping to stick around 60-70 bucks new.
Thanks,
Chuck
Any drop in servos people would recommend for a M18 Pro. I bought my car second hand and it has a hitec that has an issue with centering. I'm not really looking to dump a lot of money on a servo, since I don't have much invested in the total build but if all the mid priced servos have centering issues I might be forced to. Was hoping to stick around 60-70 bucks new.
Thanks,
Chuck
#1534
Hey All,
Any drop in servos people would recommend for a M18 Pro. I bought my car second hand and it has a hitec that has an issue with centering. I'm not really looking to dump a lot of money on a servo, since I don't have much invested in the total build but if all the mid priced servos have centering issues I might be forced to. Was hoping to stick around 60-70 bucks new.
Thanks,
Chuck
Any drop in servos people would recommend for a M18 Pro. I bought my car second hand and it has a hitec that has an issue with centering. I'm not really looking to dump a lot of money on a servo, since I don't have much invested in the total build but if all the mid priced servos have centering issues I might be forced to. Was hoping to stick around 60-70 bucks new.
Thanks,
Chuck
#1536
M18, Modified Motor, bodies and parts for sale in for sale section
#1537
Tech Regular
Hey All,
Any drop in servos people would recommend for a M18 Pro. I bought my car second hand and it has a hitec that has an issue with centering. I'm not really looking to dump a lot of money on a servo, since I don't have much invested in the total build but if all the mid priced servos have centering issues I might be forced to. Was hoping to stick around 60-70 bucks new.
Thanks,
Chuck
Any drop in servos people would recommend for a M18 Pro. I bought my car second hand and it has a hitec that has an issue with centering. I'm not really looking to dump a lot of money on a servo, since I don't have much invested in the total build but if all the mid priced servos have centering issues I might be forced to. Was hoping to stick around 60-70 bucks new.
Thanks,
Chuck
I run a JR - Z3650 servo....I know it's a little pricey $80-$90, but centeres everytime. It's not a drop in, but pretty close. I shoe glue mine in and cut off the ears. To me, spending a little xtra $$, $10-$20 more is worth it when the car handles consistant every time....... and now your more competative and having more fun "cuz it works!!" When you put in a good effort in making the car handle, suspension wise, it would be a shame that all along you were chasing the cars ill handleing because of the servo. Heck, I spend more that $20 when the wife and I go out for dinner. Something to think about. I'll have that "new chassis" for you.....by the way, very shortly. You're really going to like it. You will have a big smile on your face.
See ya soon,
Dave
#1538
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Hi Chuck,
I run a JR - Z3650 servo....I know it's a little pricey $80-$90, but centeres everytime. It's not a drop in, but pretty close. I shoe glue mine in and cut off the ears. To me, spending a little xtra $$, $10-$20 more is worth it when the car handles consistant every time....... and now your more competative and having more fun "cuz it works!!" When you put in a good effort in making the car handle, suspension wise, it would be a shame that all along you were chasing the cars ill handleing because of the servo. Heck, I spend more that $20 when the wife and I go out for dinner. Something to think about. I'll have that "new chassis" for you.....by the way, very shortly. You're really going to like it. You will have a big smile on your face.
See ya soon,
Dave
I run a JR - Z3650 servo....I know it's a little pricey $80-$90, but centeres everytime. It's not a drop in, but pretty close. I shoe glue mine in and cut off the ears. To me, spending a little xtra $$, $10-$20 more is worth it when the car handles consistant every time....... and now your more competative and having more fun "cuz it works!!" When you put in a good effort in making the car handle, suspension wise, it would be a shame that all along you were chasing the cars ill handleing because of the servo. Heck, I spend more that $20 when the wife and I go out for dinner. Something to think about. I'll have that "new chassis" for you.....by the way, very shortly. You're really going to like it. You will have a big smile on your face.
See ya soon,
Dave
#1540
Tech Regular
Did you check to see if you had a flat tire? Just kidding. Never had to do any shimming in that area....that area should have just a slight amount of side to side play when everything is built correct. You could have a crack in one of the front suspension arms, upper or lower. Or maybe the tie rod ends are coming loose where they're attached to the knuckles. Also make sure the screw that connects the hex drive axles O/B half is tightened enough to the I/B half of the axle assy. That area should fit snugly with no slop and the axle assy should fit inside the two bearings snugly. Also, check to make sure the upper and lower screws that attach the suspension arms to the knuckles are snug enough. Check for excessive slop where the pivot balls are attached to the knuckles or where they fit inside the upper and lower arms. There is a flat shoulder on the pivot balls when snapped inside the suspension arms.......both flat shoulders must be facing toward the knuckles when the suspension arms are attached to the Knuckles. Also, make sure your wheel nut is securely fastened to hold the wheel to the axle assy. Or could it be the "nut behind the wheel". Hope this helps. If any of the above suggestions don't solve the problem......you may want to make an appointment with your eye doctor soon!! LMAO!!
Dave
#1541
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Hi Chuck,
Did you check to see if you had a flat tire? Just kidding. Never had to do any shimming in that area....that area should have just a slight amount of side to side play when everything is built correct. You could have a crack in one of the front suspension arms, upper or lower. Or maybe the tie rod ends are coming loose where they're attached to the knuckles. Also make sure the screw that connects the hex drive axles O/B half is tightened enough to the I/B half of the axle assy. That area should fit snugly with no slop and the axle assy should fit inside the two bearings snugly. Also, check to make sure the upper and lower screws that attach the suspension arms to the knuckles are snug enough. Check for excessive slop where the pivot balls are attached to the knuckles or where they fit inside the upper and lower arms. There is a flat shoulder on the pivot balls when snapped inside the suspension arms.......both flat shoulders must be facing toward the knuckles when the suspension arms are attached to the Knuckles. Also, make sure your wheel nut is securely fastened to hold the wheel to the axle assy. Or could it be the "nut behind the wheel". Hope this helps. If any of the above suggestions don't solve the problem......you may want to make an appointment with your eye doctor soon!! LMAO!!
Dave
Did you check to see if you had a flat tire? Just kidding. Never had to do any shimming in that area....that area should have just a slight amount of side to side play when everything is built correct. You could have a crack in one of the front suspension arms, upper or lower. Or maybe the tie rod ends are coming loose where they're attached to the knuckles. Also make sure the screw that connects the hex drive axles O/B half is tightened enough to the I/B half of the axle assy. That area should fit snugly with no slop and the axle assy should fit inside the two bearings snugly. Also, check to make sure the upper and lower screws that attach the suspension arms to the knuckles are snug enough. Check for excessive slop where the pivot balls are attached to the knuckles or where they fit inside the upper and lower arms. There is a flat shoulder on the pivot balls when snapped inside the suspension arms.......both flat shoulders must be facing toward the knuckles when the suspension arms are attached to the Knuckles. Also, make sure your wheel nut is securely fastened to hold the wheel to the axle assy. Or could it be the "nut behind the wheel". Hope this helps. If any of the above suggestions don't solve the problem......you may want to make an appointment with your eye doctor soon!! LMAO!!
Dave
Later,
Chuck
#1542
I picked up a used M18 that came with foam tires and silver dish wheels (original slide on, not pro) with an round orange sticker on the inside. Does anyone know who makes (made) these wheels and what what shore they are? Thanks!
#1543
Sounds like TRC Orange.
#1544
#1545
Last edited by rmdhawaii; 02-21-2012 at 11:40 AM. Reason: 4 hours and no response. Yes, I know I'm impatient. LOL