Hey you M18 fanatics. We will be running an M18 class this Saturday and March 31st at the Gate in Brunswick Ohio, as part of our mini on-road lineup.
More details can be found at Norcarracing.com
Hey, Chuck......I will be bringing my M18 for sure. Can't wait to have fun on your "highbite" track. Last time I raced it at the Gate, I had a blast....so did Wayne. See everyone Saturday.....early!!
Dave B.
Hey, Chuck......I will be bringing my M18 for sure. Can't wait to have fun on your "highbite" track. Last time I raced it at the Gate, I had a blast....so did Wayne. See everyone Saturday.....early!!
Dave B.
Hey All,
Any drop in servos people would recommend for a M18 Pro. I bought my car second hand and it has a hitec that has an issue with centering. I'm not really looking to dump a lot of money on a servo, since I don't have much invested in the total build but if all the mid priced servos have centering issues I might be forced to. Was hoping to stick around 60-70 bucks new.
Hey All,
Any drop in servos people would recommend for a M18 Pro. I bought my car second hand and it has a hitec that has an issue with centering. I'm not really looking to dump a lot of money on a servo, since I don't have much invested in the total build but if all the mid priced servos have centering issues I might be forced to. Was hoping to stick around 60-70 bucks new.
Thanks,
Chuck
If you don't mind making an adapter for the servo saver and shoe gluing into place, I like the Hitec 5065. Otherwise a direct drop in if you can find it is a Multiplex Polo 4.
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If you don't mind making an adapter for the servo saver and shoe gluing into place, I like the Hitec 5065. Otherwise a direct drop in if you can find it is a Multiplex Polo 4.
Hey All,
Any drop in servos people would recommend for a M18 Pro. I bought my car second hand and it has a hitec that has an issue with centering. I'm not really looking to dump a lot of money on a servo, since I don't have much invested in the total build but if all the mid priced servos have centering issues I might be forced to. Was hoping to stick around 60-70 bucks new.
Thanks,
Chuck
Hi Chuck,
I run a JR - Z3650 servo....I know it's a little pricey $80-$90, but centeres everytime. It's not a drop in, but pretty close. I shoe glue mine in and cut off the ears. To me, spending a little xtra $$, $10-$20 more is worth it when the car handles consistant every time....... and now your more competative and having more fun "cuz it works!!" When you put in a good effort in making the car handle, suspension wise, it would be a shame that all along you were chasing the cars ill handleing because of the servo. Heck, I spend more that $20 when the wife and I go out for dinner. Something to think about. I'll have that "new chassis" for you.....by the way, very shortly. You're really going to like it. You will have a big smile on your face.
See ya soon,
Dave
Hi Chuck,
I run a JR - Z3650 servo....I know it's a little pricey $80-$90, but centeres everytime. It's not a drop in, but pretty close. I shoe glue mine in and cut off the ears. To me, spending a little xtra $$, $10-$20 more is worth it when the car handles consistant every time....... and now your more competative and having more fun "cuz it works!!" When you put in a good effort in making the car handle, suspension wise, it would be a shame that all along you were chasing the cars ill handleing because of the servo. Heck, I spend more that $20 when the wife and I go out for dinner. Something to think about. I'll have that "new chassis" for you.....by the way, very shortly. You're really going to like it. You will have a big smile on your face.
See ya soon,
Dave
Dave, I'm always smiling, especially when I get to race with you and Wayne. Good times always. Take care and see you soon.
I noticed quite a bit of axle wobble in the front of my M18. I pulled the front end apart and the bearings appear good. Just wondering if anyone is shimming out the bearings or axle and if so, how much of what shim you are using.
I noticed quite a bit of axle wobble in the front of my M18. I pulled the front end apart and the bearings appear good. Just wondering if anyone is shimming out the bearings or axle and if so, how much of what shim you are using.
Thanks,
Chuck
Hi Chuck,
Did you check to see if you had a flat tire? Just kidding. Never had to do any shimming in that area....that area should have just a slight amount of side to side play when everything is built correct. You could have a crack in one of the front suspension arms, upper or lower. Or maybe the tie rod ends are coming loose where they're attached to the knuckles. Also make sure the screw that connects the hex drive axles O/B half is tightened enough to the I/B half of the axle assy. That area should fit snugly with no slop and the axle assy should fit inside the two bearings snugly. Also, check to make sure the upper and lower screws that attach the suspension arms to the knuckles are snug enough. Check for excessive slop where the pivot balls are attached to the knuckles or where they fit inside the upper and lower arms. There is a flat shoulder on the pivot balls when snapped inside the suspension arms.......both flat shoulders must be facing toward the knuckles when the suspension arms are attached to the Knuckles. Also, make sure your wheel nut is securely fastened to hold the wheel to the axle assy. Or could it be the "nut behind the wheel". Hope this helps. If any of the above suggestions don't solve the problem......you may want to make an appointment with your eye doctor soon!! LMAO!!
Dave
Hi Chuck,
Did you check to see if you had a flat tire? Just kidding. Never had to do any shimming in that area....that area should have just a slight amount of side to side play when everything is built correct. You could have a crack in one of the front suspension arms, upper or lower. Or maybe the tie rod ends are coming loose where they're attached to the knuckles. Also make sure the screw that connects the hex drive axles O/B half is tightened enough to the I/B half of the axle assy. That area should fit snugly with no slop and the axle assy should fit inside the two bearings snugly. Also, check to make sure the upper and lower screws that attach the suspension arms to the knuckles are snug enough. Check for excessive slop where the pivot balls are attached to the knuckles or where they fit inside the upper and lower arms. There is a flat shoulder on the pivot balls when snapped inside the suspension arms.......both flat shoulders must be facing toward the knuckles when the suspension arms are attached to the Knuckles. Also, make sure your wheel nut is securely fastened to hold the wheel to the axle assy. Or could it be the "nut behind the wheel". Hope this helps. If any of the above suggestions don't solve the problem......you may want to make an appointment with your eye doctor soon!! LMAO!!
Dave
Hey I just got new glasses but they don't help when I won't wear them. LOL!! Ended up tearing it apart and shimming with 1/12th axle shims to take out some of the play. There is still some slop in the plastic pivot balls but until I get the steel or alloy pivots I'll have to live with it. Shimming did help out with the play I noticed. Have a good rest of the week.
I picked up a used M18 that came with foam tires and silver dish wheels (original slide on, not pro) with an round orange sticker on the inside. Does anyone know who makes (made) these wheels and what what shore they are? Thanks!
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See everyone Saturday.....early!!
Just kidding. 
Never had to do any shimming in that area....that area should have just a slight amount of side to side play when everything is built correct. You could have a crack in one of the front suspension arms, upper or lower. Or maybe the tie rod ends are coming loose where they're attached to the knuckles. Also make sure the screw that connects the hex drive axles O/B half is tightened enough to the I/B half of the axle assy. That area should fit snugly with no slop and the axle assy should fit inside the two bearings snugly. Also, check to make sure the upper and lower screws that attach the suspension arms to the knuckles are snug enough. Check for excessive slop where the pivot balls are attached to the knuckles or where they fit inside the upper and lower arms. There is a flat shoulder on the pivot balls when snapped inside the suspension arms.......both flat shoulders must be facing toward the knuckles when the suspension arms are attached to the Knuckles. Also, make sure your wheel nut is securely fastened to hold the wheel to the axle assy. Or could it be the "nut behind the wheel". 
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