So we're starting a Miniz club here local. We all race 1/10 competitive. We want to stick with stock rwd. I see that there is not much in stock. My question is. Is there a preferred chassis? Amain has a few chassis kits. MR-03EVO kits. Which one 4100kv or 8500kv? Also it doesnt come with a body. Where do I get bodies? Auto Scale bodies fit? What is a good kit? RTR only shows Camaros... so i was thinking of getting the chassis set. Amain doesnt show bodies or tires. What tires do we need? Already have a track & timer system. Also seems there are variations of width? Lots to learn & thanks for the help.

PS i've joined a bunch of fb groups etc. Don't have a local hobby shop that supports racing so we're on our own. Expecting to spend $300ish to get rolling. Like the idea of using my 7pxr & my own receiver.

Shop with small scale vendors; Wolfram, Salt Lake Mini-Z, Kenon, etc.

If you want to truly stick with stock RWD, and want to keep it on the inexpensive side, you will want to pick up RWD models with brushed motors.

If you want to get an EVO and have it be roughly matched with RWD brushed cars, get the 4100kv. 8500 is a lot of motor and you really need a large track to make use of it. You will need an EVO if you want to use your Futaba, and will need to purchase the 82042 MINI-Z EVO Receiver Unit. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/17...r.html?page=41

Keep your eye out for Audi, AMG, McLaren sets. Those have wider wheel offsets, less likely to roll.

Keep looking on the FB groups, there's someone selling a nearly new readyset almost every week.

For tires, most people use PN, Marka, and Kyosho tires. A good starting place is soft or 20˚ 11mm wide tires in the rear, and medium or 30˚ 8.5mm wide tires in front.

Awesome, thank you! So sounds like we'll get some EVO's as we have bought a few larger tracks. Now what to do for body? Def want to stick with scale looks for now. Just buy any auto-scale kit?

Yes, if you get an EVO chassis kit, you should have all the parts you need for either Narrow or Wide configuration. If I were in your shoes, I would get the 4100kv EVO, as you can run that in the HFAY series. Any Autoscale will come with a nose clip and wheels, some non-autoscale bodies don't come with wheels.

If you are choosing a body for performance, look at 98mm wheelbase, +2 or +3 wheel offsets. LM cars are 102mm wheelbase and really fun to drive, very stable, but you'll need some additional parts for the rear end.

https://www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mi...t_p_49387.html

https://www.kenonhobby.com/TRP-Mini-...d_p_49087.html This is a non-autoscale body that is pretty nice. Comes with wheels.

Ok cool, so looks like we'll need tires & wheels as well, suggestions? Sorry, outside looking in, it just seems like there are so many option/sizes & different letters etc (MR-03EVO SP Mini-Z N-MM2 type r gtr etc etc) Thank you so much for the time already.

Here's what some of that stuff means:

SP = slight upgrade from original EVO, includes caster front arms
N = Narrow. Comes set up narrow in the box, parts to convert to wide included. Perhaps the least important factor, since you can easily change it.
MM2 = Mid Motor mount 2, newest version of plastic mid motor pod. Most 98mm cars will run a MM, 94mm can run a mid mount or an RM (rear mount)

When choosing an EVO, some of the special editions that come with aluminum motor pod and/or ball differential are a good deal.

Mini Z can be set up at wheelbases of 86mm, 90mm, 94mm, 98mm and 102mm. 102mm are all pretty much prototype-style cars, 24hr Lemans type racers. 98mm seems to be the sweet spot for GT cars, with the best performing bodies usually here. 94mm has many very popular bodies, many of which are rare and out of production. 90mm can be really fun, but requires a different approach to setups than longer cars. 86mm is kind of a specialty wheelbase, usually run only by someone with a special car, like a Porsche 935 or a Lotus Elise.

You will need tires and T-plates. Whatever bodies you buy should come with the wheels you will need, or at least you would need to know which body you are using to know which offset wheels to order. For T-plates, the larger the number, the stiffer it is. I like 3 and 4. I would get some tire tape too. And 3+ sets of rechargeable AAA batteries and a good charger.

Those things should be all you need to get going.

If you get the MR-03 EVO's, you will NEED to adjust their settings with the following USB adapter - 82083 ICS on Kyosho America's website.
Look up StephensRCModeling for ics-usb-adaptor-setup

Get one laptop to install the software on (the process is a bit cumbersome but this website helped a lot), and then you can plug in each MR-03 EVO into it to adjust settings like throttle control, drag break, reverse delay etc.

4100kv is a good beginner speed, great for small tracks that are garage sized. This speed is similar to the stock brushed motor that comes with the MR-03 RTR kits. 8500kv motors are very fast and require longer straights and flow-y curves/corners, so probably not suggested for just getting started. A happy medium is the 5600kv motor speed which allows for faster racing, on small tracks once your group starts to feel comfortable driving and want a bit more excitement in your races. The 5600kv brushless motor is similar in speed to the X-Speed V brushed motor.

If you want to see the progression of your and your friend's driving skills and lap times, a lap timing system is a good addition. Build a pvc pipe bridge over the track, install the sensors there, and transponders on each car and you can start compiling race data and counting laps. Maybe even do a season race for points and top 3 get some small prizes at the end. Easylap or I-Lap are commonly used.

For racing on RCP track, the preferred chassis is the MR-03 or MR-03 EVO. The RTR MR-03's are full car/body/transmitter kits, while the MR-03 EVOs are just the chassis, so wheels, body, receiver, and transmitter are also required. I would stick with the most recent releases for MR-03 bodies, such as the Mercedes AMG GT3, or Audi R8, both at 98mm wheelbase. Both are wide tread in the front, which offer cornering stability. If you feel the autoscale bodies are too beautiful to race and damage, consider getting a spare "beater" or "racer" body, either as a spare autoscale, or as a white body (some will come with wheels). Btw, the wings on the autoscale bodies are mainly for looks. They are likely to get damaged eventually during driving and racing. You can get lexan wings that are actually more functional (and paint them up).

For basic upgrades, you MUST swap out any stock tires from the RTR sets as they provide little grip. Get some softer tires in the rear, and medium/firm for the front. Tire tape is important too. You can also upgrade the T plate, and install different front springs for handling characteristics. Also, the "Kingpin Flip" - look on Youtube - is a good free upgrade to smoothen out the front suspension on a stock MR-03 RTR car. A rear disk damper is also recommended to keep the motor pod planted.

That's really all for first upgrades. Get friends/family together, pick up your favorite bodies/cars, set up the track and start driving and having fun!

P.S. take all the RTRs out of Training Mode, and into Normal Mode. Remember to push the trigger forwards twice to reverse the car.

Awesome, thank you. So much help. I appreciate your time.

AsphaltFlyer,
All of the above is really good advice depending on what you want to do. But from my experience I would suggest a box stock class with the RWD ready sets only, and not do the EVO chassis at this point assuming your goal is close competitive racing with a group that would attract the most racers to build the club. I would get whatever RWD kits you can to start with and add bodies you like later. For rules keep it simple and require box stock radios and mostly box stock cars. You said you already have a track and timer so a transponder is a must for each. You will only need RCP type tires to start with. Options that we allow for box stock class are, Bearings (most RWD's already have them), T-Plate (because the stock will break), Springs (stock ones are super stiff), and Headlights (because they are cool looking and some RWD kits come with them). The most fun and competitive racing is had when all the cars are the exact same radio and motor.

Where are you located?

Thanks for the help. Yes we're located in Montana.

hello, sorry to piggy back on the thread but in general looking at the same kind of info requested by OP.

Is there a reason why the RWD versus AWD versions are suggested as the price diff on amain if I am seeing it right is $10? seems the AWD could make getting them to hook up a bit easier but curious if they there is more to it than that?

Well my best guess is that they are just more complicated since you have a lot more parts and everything is so small so its just too difficult to work on, especially for someone with limited knowledge and wrench time. And i also think that the rwd platform is more widespread than awd in 1/28 scale racing.

Thanks for the info, not too concerned about the more to work on thing but the part about rwd being more widespread is matters more to what I am seeing then, will pass that along.

To the money difference I have no input because I don't know. The major difference I'm seeing in racing specifically is that most classes are the RWD, box stock, and super stock both are RWD only while some tracks allow AWD in mod and some have designated AWD classes I'm assuming on turnout.

Not sure if that helped your original question or not dude I may have been reading it wrong.