where can you find a Speed 300 for that price? I might check it out to see who has the total (with shipping).
Might be kind of hard to find a GPM shock besides if you can tell me a place that still have them. Is a VCS shock really going to help the car from rolling?
I did notice that my ball diff loosen up a lot when I was getting the traction roll, would that be a cause?
Do you have a link to where I can get one of those aluminium pulleys I can't find em anywhere.
probably nowhere to be found anymore...they were made by GH (golden hobbies) but they have been out of production about 5 years now..
i'd start searching ebay or forums to get one...I've been looking for one myself and haven't found one...
they aren't really needed for the car - I'm running the original plastic one from when I first got my mRS4, that makes it about 7 years old and its handled everything from 6.8 brushless/lipo to graupner speed300's and its just fine
__________________
Team Tekin | Bodies By Bean | Banzai Motors | ExoTek Racing | Team Belly
Last edited by k_bojar; 01-06-2009 at 07:40 PM.
Reason: damn typos
I just think I need one because there has to be something wrong w/ mine if the belt keeps slipping off and causing the car to bind. If i could come up with a way to put some tension on the belt, that could help too. I just haven't had time to dig into it yet this week and check out whats going on.
I just think I need one because there has to be something wrong w/ mine if the belt keeps slipping off and causing the car to bind. If i could come up with a way to put some tension on the belt, that could help too. I just haven't had time to dig into it yet this week and check out whats going on.
that just don't sound right...
I've been running my mRS4 for a LONG time and never seen that...
and getting an aluminum pulley wouldn't help that - in all honestly...
The other guy who did that probably solved another problem in the meantime...
I'd pull the front end of your car completely apart and try resetting everything...make sure nothing is binding or rubbing...check the bearings - by inserting the front diff setup WITHOUT the belt...if it moves freely then you know nothing is bound up there...then I'd add the belt back on and see if that makes things better...did you build this car or get it used or RTR?? if you didn't build it, i'd go over everything again and make sure its done right
I wouldn't try tracking down an aluminum pulley that's long long gone..look at the little things first before spending any cash - 90% of the time it was something stupid that is causing the problem.
__________________
Team Tekin | Bodies By Bean | Banzai Motors | ExoTek Racing | Team Belly
where can you find a Speed 300 for that price? I might check it out to see who has the total (with shipping).
Might be kind of hard to find a GPM shock besides if you can tell me a place that still have them. Is a VCS shock really going to help the car from rolling?
I did notice that my ball diff loosen up a lot when I was getting the traction roll, would that be a cause?
the speed 300 is an awesome motor...and always has been the best deal out there in the "big block" motor arena...
the front shocks don't really do much for the car - and are more of a bling factor...I've always run the kit plastic shocks on the front, with different springs - hpi makes a decent tuning set that should help..
the CA on the front edge of the tire will work - especially if you are running foams...If you are running foams, you will want to try the hardest foam you can get for the front, that will help with the edges getting too much bite...the CA does that as well - I normally run GQ foams on my micros and they always have WAAAYYYY too much bite, so a little truing and CA makes them a world better
The oil shock will help the car transfer weight better then then plastic non-oil shock and spring...so yes, it should help reduce or at least smooth out the weight transfer
and what do you mean by "loosen up" in your diff?? you'll want the diff fairly loose - should be able to turn freely, but not too loose...if its too tight, you'll get a "snappy" rear-end - which could cause your traction rolling issues...its its too loose, you'll get a "slipping" when you first get on the trottle - acting almost like a slipper clutch on a buggy...
__________________
Team Tekin | Bodies By Bean | Banzai Motors | ExoTek Racing | Team Belly
One of the guys where i used to race at had the same set up as this one.
Note the Tensioner. He had issues with the Belt Flying of on braking or quick accellerations.
MRS4 are still very quick if set up right, and i am a M18 R3 owner xD
I got my ass handed to me all the time by him.
And then he let me try his MRS4.
I tell you it was really Wicked Fast But i since my driving sucks and isn't precise as his i send the car all over the track in a turn LMAO.
I'd pull the front end of your car completely apart and try resetting everything...make sure nothing is binding or rubbing...check the bearings - by inserting the front diff setup WITHOUT the belt...if it moves freely then you know nothing is bound up there...then I'd add the belt back on and see if that makes things better...did you build this car or get it used or RTR?? if you didn't build it, i'd go over everything again and make sure its done right .
Believe me the front end has been pulled apart more than once. Without the belt the wheels spin fine. I'm really starting to think it's my belt slipping off of the front pulley. I put a brand new belt on and it seems like its pretty loose. I know its the right size belt (150mm) but it just seems real loose. I think I'm just gonna replace the pulley and try to devise my own tensioner.
Fixed it, not that I know how I did it. All I did was take apart the front end ,inspected it and reinstalled it then did the same for the rear and when I ran it, it was fine. I even tapped the wall once or twice in my garage and it just kept going. After days of pulling my hair out and seriously considering just dumping it and getting an M18, I'm finally ready to get it on the track tomorrow night and see what it can do.
Fixed it, not that I know how I did it. All I did was take apart the front end ,inspected it and reinstalled it then did the same for the rear and when I ran it, it was fine. I even tapped the wall once or twice in my garage and it just kept going. After days of pulling my hair out and seriously considering just dumping it and getting an M18, I'm finally ready to get it on the track tomorrow night and see what it can do.
see like I said - some times its the silliest little thing that will drive you nuts
glad to see you were able to get it fixed without spending any $$
__________________
Team Tekin | Bodies By Bean | Banzai Motors | ExoTek Racing | Team Belly
What’s up fella’s, I just wanted to let you guys know that the second week in Mar there will be a two day race sponsored by the Micro Racing League just for micro (touring), pan cars and 1/14 @ the Track in Maryland (www.rctrack.com). If you are interested you can visit MRL - Micro Racing League and you will get any information you need or just pm me. I know there are some fast after market rs4's out there lets see what they can do.
I will post a list of the entries later.
Thanks Denmark
__________________
3-Dee (BROKE _ SS RACING)
TEAM SCREAM RACING
CASTLE CREATIONS
TEAM EXOTEK
www.Pursuit racing.com
www.Maxy's racing fuel.com
Got my MRS4 on a track tonite for the first time and I gotta say I'm very pleasantly surprised. The track was perfectly suited to a car this size. I had to run in a mod class and there were only 2 other people in the class with me. Apparently the big class is the RC18r and all of the rest go into a mod class which is basically a few MRS4's and a bunch of M18's. Once I got the dust from my garage floor off of my foams the car stuck to the carpet like glue. I think with a better motor I'll be able to give those M18's a run. The one I went up against tonite was fast with his mamba 8000 but it looked like it was too much for this place. I'm thinking a Team Orion Elite Mod would do the trick nicely. Add a new rear shock and I'm golden. To think of all the trouble I had with this thing and now how much I love it is ridiculous.
Fixed it, not that I know how I did it. All I did was take apart the front end ,inspected it and reinstalled it then did the same for the rear and when I ran it, it was fine. I even tapped the wall once or twice in my garage and it just kept going. After days of pulling my hair out and seriously considering just dumping it and getting an M18, I'm finally ready to get it on the track tomorrow night and see what it can do.
I'm pretty sure that your rear pod was out of alignment or tweaked just a bit or loose. If that rear pod is out of place your belt will be too loose. Taking it off, cleaning and re installing will usually fix the problem.
jcr, the easiest way to fix traction rolling is with harder tires. Harder front if you are traction rolling on turn entry (off throttle), harder rears if you are traction rolling on turn exit (on throttle). You can also try a set of lowering spacers to lower your chassis. The HPI tuning springs will only help in fine tuning. The hard springs arn't hard enough to make a significant difference. At the HPI challenge in 08, I used the hard springs and added an O ring to make the front even harder. It worked really well.
and its handled everything from 6.8 brushless/lipo to graupner speed300's and its just fine 
Similar Threads