Hello everyone...I'm new to the site (one of the refugees from a recently closed forum. You know who). I'm also on another micro forum under the same name. I've been into various RC cars for 23 years, and now am exclusively micro. I no longer care to race, and I'm still sticking with "old school" Nimh and brushed motors. I enjoy wrenching, designing projects and sharing info/ideas on this hobby. I'm looking forward to discussing rides, and picking up new information...hopefully, I can help someone else out, as well.
__________________
If it don't fit, force it...If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!
Your motor is coreless not brushless. Its a great motor though. Good power and lasts a long time. My suggestion would be to get a graupner speed 300/Orion big block size motor and a set of steel pinions. The 300 size motor will need a larger pinion in the 12 to 14 tooth range. Your selection will depend on your track. It looks like you have a 6 cell battery pack. If not, get a 6 cell pack.
Thanks for the reply sir, do you know the difference between coreless and brushless? Is my motor slower than brushless? How about the graupner speed 300 and orion big block size, does this directly fit in my micro or do i need to modify or buy extra parts? What batteries do you suggest? Also i already have the steel pinion set from HPI.
Recently, I purchased a set of Integy alloy rims (direct fit type). I have a GPM ball diff that has worked really well with the stock plastic hubs. It has a full range of adjustment using the standard washers and locknut. On the other hand, the alloy rims tend to cause the nut to back off immediately to the point of total slip. I assumed the nut was worn, but going back to the stock hubs proved otherwise. I have tried numerous washer/spacer configurations with no luck...Any suggestions on the cause? Attached is a photo of the diff layout. Thanks in advance.
-Russ
__________________
If it don't fit, force it...If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!
Yes...I tried both ways, as well as several washer/nut combinations. When using the stock wheel hubs, the diff holds its adjustment very well. Using the alloy wheels, the adjustment will either tighten or loosen, depending on which direction it is turned. I'm thinking I'll need to put a "jam nut" on it, if I can find some to fit.
__________________
If it don't fit, force it...If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!
Yes...I tried both ways, as well as several washer/nut combinations. When using the stock wheel hubs, the diff holds its adjustment very well. Using the alloy wheels, the adjustment will either tighten or loosen, depending on which direction it is turned. I'm thinking I'll need to put a "jam nut" on it, if I can find some to fit.
Try replacing the last bearing with a thrust bearing >> bearing
The shape of the alloy rim is probably causing the standard diff bearing to bind thus unlocking the nut.
OK...The LHS didn't have any thrust bearings small enough, but I went with Dubro #6 nylon washers (part 636), and used one of those with 1 flat washer and the wheel locknut...works like a champ now.
Those Dubro washers are kind of thick, and work well for diff spacers.
__________________
If it don't fit, force it...If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!
Thanks for the reply sir, do you know the difference between coreless and brushless? Is my motor slower than brushless? How about the graupner speed 300 and orion big block size, does this directly fit in my micro or do i need to modify or buy extra parts? What batteries do you suggest? Also i already have the steel pinion set from HPI.
Thank you very much
I believe that coreless motors don't have a solid armature core where the copper wire is wound around. I'm only speaking from my experiance from taking apart a coreless servo. Other then that, its a brushed motor. A brushless motor has no brushes that contact the armature. Because of this, a brushless motor last much longer.
As far as speed goes I'll list the motors in order from slowest to fastest.
The last 3 are pretty close in speed. I listed the brushless last because you can get brushless motors in various speeds. The fastest brushless motors will be give more top end then a brushed motor can, but may make the car undrivable. Also a brushless motor needs a special speed control.
Anyone looking for RATZAS Chassis parts, we will have them availible soon. yes even ratzas chassis kits. email b5080@vh.net
__________________
PHAT QUAD RACING, TEAM LOSI, CRC, HPI/HOTBODIES, RATZAS, DARKSIDE MOTOR SPORTS,PROMATCH RACING, TEAM BROOD, PARMA. www.browneng.org, TEAM SCREAM. ROBITRONICS, RC AMERICA, JOHN'S BSR RACING TIRES, SKYROCKET BATTERIES, TEKIN
how do you properly mount a micro servo in the micro rs4
I have all the right parts to install it but I can't get the servo centered enough
I'm using the adjustable toe links also
hitec 85mg servo
what servo saver should be used?
I have the hpi on
any pic would be great help
Thanks
Sup Guys pretty new here but i own a Micro rs4 fully modded i mean everything alloy or carbon. It has has been clocked at 72 mph by Morrisville N.C Police Department with a fresh charge of my 3 cell lipo it might can go a tad faster. ill try my hardest to get pics or a video of it. The car has the sidewinder esc and the old motor that came with my mamba 25 8000kv system. Check out the pics.
Similar Threads