If you are just bashing stick with the $2-a-bag stock plastic turnbuckles. With bashing you won't be worrying about fine adjustments and such, and the turnbuckles just pop on and off. That's why!
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Novak - Tekin - XRAY - Jaco
"Big Rug" Raceway of Indiana - Marion County Fairgrounds
Team BlackOps
Anyone mount the KO PDS-3101 ICS servo in the R? Thinking of switching to this. Any issues?
Other than the fact that there is only 32mm between the edge of the chassis and the driveshaft and that servo is 30mm wide..? I don't think it will fit.
Other than the fact that there is only 32mm between the edge of the chassis and the driveshaft and that servo is 30mm wide..? I don't think it will fit.
good catch. thanks. I will look into that.
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www.raffaellimotorsport.com | uSucK racing
If you are just bashing stick with the $2-a-bag stock plastic turnbuckles. With bashing you won't be worrying about fine adjustments and such, and the turnbuckles just pop on and off. That's why!
Exactly, and think of the money you will save. I just bought a Losi Type R Sedan for 200 bucks in mint condition. Deals are out there you just have to look.
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CRC Gen XL 17.5 1s Lipo
Spektrum l Novak l Tekin l SMC l Jaco
Sorry to interupt the current discussion, but I was wondering if any of you are using the steel ring & pinion gear sets for the RC18t? I have them installed along with the MIP super diff's & MIP CVD's. I have taken apart my car several times to check the gear mesh & everything seems to be ok.
My problem is this thing is super, super loud & when you roll the car by hand very slowly it will grab "Something" & the wheels will lock up. It only happens when you roll the car very slow, other then that it seems to be fine, except for the noise. I'm just wondering what could be causing the wheels to lock up like that? I can tell that the mesh with the steel gears is much deeper due to the length of the teeth, but the wear pattern on the gears really does seem to be ideal.
I'm just alittle lost & was wondering if any of you guy's have used these same gears & had the same problem & what was the cure? Thanks in advance to anyone who can give me some advice.
Sorry to interupt the current discussion, but I was wondering if any of you are using the steel ring & pinion gear sets for the RC18t? I have them installed along with the MIP super diff's & MIP CVD's. I have taken apart my car several times to check the gear mesh & everything seems to be ok.
My problem is this thing is super, super loud & when you roll the car by hand very slowly it will grab "Something" & the wheels will lock up. It only happens when you roll the car very slow, other then that it seems to be fine, except for the noise. I'm just wondering what could be causing the wheels to lock up like that? I can tell that the mesh with the steel gears is much deeper due to the length of the teeth, but the wear pattern on the gears really does seem to be ideal.
I'm just alittle lost & was wondering if any of you guy's have used these same gears & had the same problem & what was the cure? Thanks in advance to anyone who can give me some advice.
i dont have the gears but it sounds like it is to tight and thats causing the wear try taking all shims out and assemble the car back thogether and hold the frount or rear tires(hold both of the tires) then try to spin the others if you hear a clicking then identify if it is the frount or rear diff and shim that one. you might have to do this many times.
I don't have those gears either, mines stock..
But I thought my diffs were toasted too b/c they would catch and were loud.
After disassembly and finding nothing wrong, what I did find was junk in the spur gear which I had to clean out with an exacto knife. Much quiter and definately smoother after doing that.
Well I know it's not the clicking noise commonly associated with loose or worn diff's. I have both of the diff's locked basically as tight as they can go. Remeber everything is metal now, only thing that isn't is the diff housing & the diff lube. As for the spur gear it's crystal clean brand new out of the package. Hasen't even seen anything other then carpet.
I'm not really sure what's causing the wheels to look up, I'm leaning more towards some type of flashing or possible a slightly misaligned tooth on one of the gears? As for the loud noise, thats completely inevitable in my eyes due to the metal on metal contact going on. Who knows maybe I just ned to put alittle more run time on the parts so they can seat properly. I'm just alittle concerned because I broke a motor shaft & even though I don't think the metal gears was the culpret, I just want to investigate & make sure that it doesn't happen again with the new motor.
Honestly, if you try the stock plastic gears and the problem goes away, then the metal ring and pinion was the culprit. I run the stock ring and pinion gears with the MIP outdrives, they work great. I did notice I was able to completely remove the diff shims when using the MIP outdrives. I remember the original batch of RC18 vehicles did not have diff shims, resulting in many a diff gear stripping. Later batches of vehicles had the shims to correct this problem. I think MIP made their outdrives to work properly without any shims. Hope this helps.
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Float like an anvil. Sting like a Q-Tip!
Well it turned out what was binding the wheels was actually the drag of the motor. I took the pinion gear off & the car wouldn't lock up the wheels anymore.
As for the type of greese, I'm using the silicone carbide diff lube for the diff balls & some of the orange bearing greese on the ring & pinion. I thought the orange greese would work well because it has a tendancy to stay in place fairly well.
Do you guy's thing I should clean that stuff off & convert over to the black lube or maybe a hi tempature automotive style wheel bearing greese? The car seems to be holding up just fine, but I am noticing that my Brushless motor is running alittle warmer then normal. I am running a 60t spur with a 12t pinion. As for the motor system I am using a Mamba pro ESC & a 8750kv BLUE motor while my mamba 8000kv is out for warrenty work. Along with a 2100mah 3s lipo.
Once again thanks for all the info, I'm alittle anal when it comes to this thing. So I'm really taking the time to allow everything to break in & seat correctly. No real hard driving as of yet, but I do plan on making some speed runs with it. I have the car basically set up for straight line racing.
Well it turned out what was binding the wheels was actually the drag of the motor. I took the pinion gear off & the car wouldn't lock up the wheels anymore.
a Brushless motor should not have ever increased the drag that significantly unless the gear mesh was too tight, which might be your overheating concern.
next, before asking a question I would attempt to diagnose the problem yourself. especially if it is as simple as removing a pinion to pinpoint a problem. makes your questions or concerns not sound as ridiculous.
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