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Old 09-08-2006, 07:21 AM   #91
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If you like the look of the AE buggy body, grab one of the JConcepts Mini BJ4 bodies. It's by far the best looking buggy body made.

www.jconcepts.net

Here's mine:
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Old 09-08-2006, 07:28 AM   #92
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I actually prefer the stock 18B and the Parma X-Citer buggy bodies over the JB Concepts.

But it is a matter of personal preference...just like choosing a buggy over a truck.

dr_hfuhuhurr...nice looking buggy.
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:46 AM   #93
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Hey guys... first post. I just finished building my FT RC18T. Threw in: Mamba 8000kv / 25 ESC, and a Hitec HS56 servo. Ive only run it a little in my house so far, but WOW!
I have a Q about gearing this beast.. while I was assembling it I set it up with 14/55. Is this a decent starting point? (my first B/L motor )
Or maybe someone could give a temp range thats safe... I'm assuming that a B/L wil react the sames as a brushed motor in that it will overheat when geared too tall.... lil help?
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:54 AM   #94
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Excellent choice!
I don't remember my gearing but it's not too far off from yours. I'm thinking it's a 12 but...
You will burn thru those stock tires in no time. If you're running on the street quite abit the proline road rages work the best I've ran thus far.
I wouldn't run it inside. I use to but one time it hit a toe and ripped bat my toenail. RPM bumper is a very good upgrade as well.
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Old 09-09-2006, 08:21 AM   #95
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For the most part its a racer.. will spend most of its run-time on a indoor 1/10 off road carpet track. I plan on putting in MIP diffs, and an RPM bumper.
I'm thinking I'll have to drop to 4 cells to be able to control it on carpet lol.
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Old 09-09-2006, 08:36 AM   #96
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Heres a few pics from the build and completed:
I hate the paint job, and the tire gluing was rough... I really need to get into airbrushing. Typically I just buy custom 'brushed bodies for my racers. The tip on my CA bottle was way too big for gluing 1/18 tires lol.. what a mess. I'm sure these tires will be bald soon enough anyhow
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Old 09-09-2006, 09:00 AM   #97
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you might want the 60t spur.(the 60t requires a new bottom plate) Smaller pinions w 55t might give you clearance issues with the motor can and the top plate. The mamba 8000 can is a 180 so you might not have that problem. I run 4 or 5 or 6 or even 7 cells w my mamba. As long as you have high discharge cells the mamba works awesome.
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Old 09-09-2006, 12:18 PM   #98
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Hi Guys,

I just recently purchased a RC18T. I wanted to know what upgrades I will need for running in the house, and on the street?

Is it okay to run on dirt, or will rocks get stuk inbetween the spur gear?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 09-09-2006, 12:28 PM   #99
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as much as a problem it would seem to be having the spur gear open like that, i have never really had a problem with any rocks, and if i do, just take the spur gear cover off. but if you are just running it on the road, if you leave the cover off anyway, rocks will fall right through. You want to keep it on if there's any times you tink the truck will bottom out though.
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Old 09-09-2006, 12:57 PM   #100
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Ok, so its insanely over-geared lol. It flew by at what looked like AT LEAST 40mph... suprizingly it has alot of punch geared like this.
I'm going to throw the 60t spur on, and maybe try a 12 or 13t pinion.
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Old 09-09-2006, 01:12 PM   #101
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how does the stock servo perform? Is it necessary to change? If so, what doyou guys recommend?
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Old 09-09-2006, 01:38 PM   #102
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I would recommend gearing it to 12/60 w/the Mamba 8000.
As for a safe operating temperature, Castle creations recommends that it not exceed 200 degrees farenheit.

The performance of the stoock servo? Replace it with the HS-56 as Discodan alreay did. If your stock one has not yet crapped out on you, replace it anyway and use the stocker for a back up if you need it.

there are a lot of other servos that have been used in the RC18's however I will say that I have had the best luck using the HS-56. It is a direct drop in and servo savers are easily available for it.

skengines...my suggestion for upgrades are the following, assuming your rc18 is a completely stock truck:

MIP CVD's
MIP Superdiffs
RPM bumper
Lunsford titanium TB and ballstuds.
HS-56 servo
Keep the chassis parts STOCK. Don't waste your money making them aluminum as they are heavier and they will bend upon impact.

There is a large selection of motors that can be used to improve performace...I have been very pleased with the Mamba brushless set up.

Enjoy...
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Old 09-09-2006, 01:56 PM   #103
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needrcspeed- Thanks for the great info!

How about the steering cranks and servo mount? Is it okay to go aluminum on those parts?
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Old 09-09-2006, 02:45 PM   #104
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Good call NeedRC!
I just installed the 12/60 and took it for a quick blast... seems in the right zone... what a punch off the line! hahaha I love it.
I'm going to have to get some MIP Super Diffs asap.. these ones needed adjusting already. I'm sure they wont last long lol
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Old 09-09-2006, 04:08 PM   #105
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skengines,

by far the best drag link that is available is the one by DP (driven productions. It is available at thetoyz.com It stiffens the steering incredibly. Personally, I recommend this upgrade before the servo. But as long as you have one out already, this is a good time to do the other.

discodan,

Same thing. Go for the DP drag link especially if you are going to race it and need responsive steering. Also, if you are going to race on carpet then you are going to want foam tires. I like the Parma/PSE foams. Purples up front #16040 and Pinks on the rear #16041.

Good looking truck by the way.

Last edited by mentallylost; 09-09-2006 at 04:34 PM.
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