Whats the difference between the Niteline and the other RC18R's is like the motor or what.
Good question!!
Just the body, the rest of the kit is the same.
But the real answer is that the Niteline is a much lower more aerodynamic and thus faster body than the other stock 18R options. That's why the factory guys use them at the big races.
It took me 3 days to build the thing, I dont think I could di it any slower and more patient.
3 Days? It took me about 3 hours to build my first one, and I was watching TV while doing it.
I'm not faulting you or trashing you, and if this had been the first RC you've ever touched I could understand it, but you sure have seemed to have had an awful lot of little problems that have baffled you with a kit that's really not that hard to get up and running.
Then in the future I'd seriously suggest instead of seeking quick gratification to slow down take helibrian's advice and instead of trying to get things done too quickly you should step back and take a break and take the time to figure out how the car works - or why it's not working - instead of freaking out.
As I once heard, "99% of the time the reason something's not working is because of something you either did or didn't do - figure it out!"
But the real answer is that the Niteline is a much lower more aerodynamic and thus faster body than the other stock 18R options. That's why the factory guys use them at the big races.
Myself, I would go for the cheaper one and get the exotek gtz body. A lot more aerodynamic and just works best over all!
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CRC Gen XL 17.5 1s Lipo
Spektrum l Novak l Tekin l SMC l Jaco
Myself, I would go for the cheaper one and get the exotek gtz body. A lot more aerodynamic and just works best over all!
Myself, I wouldn't screw with any of them and just get the exotek kit along with the few factory pieces you'd still retain along with the needed aftermarket bits and pieces and be done with it.
But I think this guy is just a kid looking to get his first RTR, so suggesting anything outside what comes in the box would be overkill.
The 350Z body is great, it has a ton of downforce and the oversize wing helps. Ran my R for the first time yesterday and had a blast! Won the A-Main by 2 laps. The BRP tires were great, even with a high ride height and the more narrow wheelbase it didn't want to traction roll at all. The Z body isn't so great for some of our jumps but it worked well enough. I love it!
It may be buried somewhere in this thread. But I'm gonna ask anyway. I have the RC18T with a few upgrades, FT alloy shocks, shock towers, rear hubs, front c hubs, knuckles, MIP diffs, and CVD axles, RPM front bumper and Integy rear arm mount. I've noticed the chassis will not sit level. It leans to the left, even with the battery out. I have the adjustment collars all the way to the top of the shocks, so they are even, and still the car does not sit level. Any info will help.
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Float like an anvil. Sting like a Q-Tip!
Nothing is bound up. If I pop the shocks off the arms, the arms flop under their own weight. One thing I thought of is the springs being worn, but I don't have very much track time on them.
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Float like an anvil. Sting like a Q-Tip!
It took me about 3 hours to build my first one, and I was watching TV while doing it.
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