I really like the 18r, too. It somehow has become my favorite rc car! My other cars sit while I work on and run my 18r. It sort of reminds me of the rc10 dual sport -another offroad based on road car(I still have my Dual sport!). Right now my 18r is in pieces- but it's going back togther with some nice aftermarket parts.
We should start an 18r thread!
---nitsuj2k
I just started an 18r thread!
Last edited by nitsuj2k; 09-04-2008 at 08:55 PM.
Reason: I just started an 18r thread!
I've had my 18T, now modified, for a few years now and love it!
Had my first on-road experience with it on a big newly asphalted p-lot this past labor day. What a blast!!! I was pulling away from full-size cars on highway paraell to p-lot where they go ~ 45-50mph and left there looking like:
I did nothing but gear 19t,60t and put worn-out AE mini-pins on (slicks now) however. Even with new black and clean asphalt, it was real loose tho, severe corner slip.
(Hacker 5200kV, 3s Apogee)
I aim to slowly compile parts to scratch build a dedicated on-road one this winter.
I'm guessing foamies stick best and don't balloon-up at high-speed, but which ones are best?? ...Parmas or ?? Also, pink all the way around or pink in rear, purple up front, vise-versa?
Also, X-ray for better F1 like handling b/c of longer wheelbase?
I love the look of F1's and a race video here showed unbelievable cornering which is exactly what I want. Thing is, more different parts needed on-hand if I went F1 something / non AE-18, and I really want to stick with mini-class 1/18 size motor, ESC, lithium
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I'm living longer than I - had intended - so some things must be going right.
Morrisey
have you ever heard of "cleaning" ---- especially before showing off?
Heard of cleaning? Yes. Care about doing it before I post pictures on the internet? Hell no. Every one knows what a clean RC18 looks like. If you don't, well, I'm sorry for you. It's clear that my pictures offended you. And for that, I'm also sorry for you.
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Total Cereal comes from Cyborg Jesus.
Hi i am new to micro, i have a FT rc18b on the way. I have a few questions though.
Where is the best place to get parts from one shop i dont wont to order through multiple shops if i dont have to? I am looking at getting all rpm arms and towers, mip cvd, diff shims, outdrive sleeves, motor, esc, lipo and a few other bits and pieces.
Also what are peoples motor recommendation for a short tight track that will have a straight of about 13m. I was thinking around the 4000kv to 5000kv, is this to high (2cell lipo)? I dont want to be stripping gears all the time.
One more question is there a good slipper setup that is easy to get parts for if need be. Or is a slipper not needed? The reason i say easy to get parts for is because after market stuff can be a pain to get replacement parts for should you need it.
also what are the best tyres for carpet, Foam or rubber?
peter
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Team Driver For RCHOBBYZONE
MBX5T, GO 25
Last edited by Boadazofa; 09-05-2008 at 05:22 PM.
Reason: tyre question
Hi i am new to micro, i have a FT rc18b on the way. I have a few questions though.
My new favorite store is TheToyz.com. They have a wide assortment of accessories/upgrades for RC18. As for RPM parts, it looks like they have the bumper, all 4 arms, the shock towers, and several rims.
For a short track, I personally would recommend a motor in the 5000kV range. I have a 4100 and it has great acceleration but a rather low top end. I also have a 6800 and it's just bananas. Right in the middle should do you good.
I can't help you about tire selection though. I'm inexperienced in that department.
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Total Cereal comes from Cyborg Jesus.
Yes, an ~ 5000kV motor, but using 3s, would be fine on a track with a 13m or 40-ish' straight-run. I think 2s isn't a good idea for this rpm of a motor tho. ....2s and higher current draw is more for the very high kV motors, like guys running 8000kV mambas etc. On a similiar size track in places, my Hacker 13L @ 5200kV / Quark 33 / 3s Apogee 1000mAH / 10,60 gears is just perfect. The Toyz sells lesser tooth pinion gears if needed. No worries, you won't strip gears unless mesh is severely out-of-whack, loose.
BTW: pretty-sure 1/18 is mini class not micro, but I could be mistaken. ...micro ie: Losi 1/36 micro-t
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I'm living longer than I - had intended - so some things must be going right.
Morrisey
Did I say I was angered, nope. "a little annoying" is all I said.
There's ??? marks where I was looking for advice. The rest simply told the story in fairly breif fashon. .... seperate paragraphs, etc., so it's quick and easy to skim thru if one chooses.
Please don't attempt to drag me down into a peeing match.
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I'm living longer than I - had intended - so some things must be going right.
Morrisey
So I've been searching multiple sites and found gobs of info.. but need help with the steering on my 18T. I'm running a HS-56HB with the DP drag link and everything is clear and not binding as far as I can tell, but the thing has NO steering throw at all.. maybe a 1/16" to either side. I have two HS-81MG's sitting aside that I would love to fit in there, but haven't been able to find a write-up on how to do it.
Anybody have this problem? My EPA's are all set high and my EXP is set to 0.. really lost for what else I could do.. I can see that the servo is not trying to push the servo saver anymore..in fact if I force the servo saver over, the servo won't go any further.. it's as if the servo itself has no throw, plenty of torque, just no travel..
HELP?!
billdapart - I had a similar issue. I was running the DP Draglink, and an XRAY M18 servo saver metal ring around the stock AE servo saver to keep the plastic from moving out of shape. Nothing wrong with that solution. Just make sure that your ballstuds that go through the draglink aren't causing binding because they are too tight and don't let it move. Also make sure that your knuckles are moving freely within the castor blocks. Last check if you really think it's the servo is to remove it and test it out of the car to ensure it has full throw. My particular problem was I had an issue with needing to use a little thread lock on the king pins and on one side it bound up the knuckle in the castor block. Once you get free travel that solution should eliminate the slop which is the biggest flaw in this kit.
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