We are running trinity cobalt 16t in our 18T(14/60) gearing with a 3R motor fan. It runs on a carpet road course ( 36'x100') It gets a little warm on the longer runs of 7 minutes or more. Any suggestions.?
watever u do dont do that!!!!!! unless the pack is like half full or atleast 3/5's full......never top up a lipo....THEY FREAKIN EXPLODE!!!!!!!!!!!
You can top off a lipo battery at any time and it will not explode. All lipo chargers have a cutoff, limiting the amount of charge the battery receives. For instance if you have a 90% charge on your battery, it will only charge 10%.
If you are new to lipos or any lipo user. The best bet is to use a lipo charger/ balancer. Check out FMA direct's cellpro charger. It is the most dummy proof charger on the market. You simply plug in your battery and it balances and charges at the same time.
al the lipos i have topped up have puffed up and nearly exploded....luckily i usually put a couple or single layer of heatshrink over them to be safe from puffing up
I took my FT 18B apart to do a clean build in the diffs and to clean and oil the bearings so I decided to install my RC screws stainless screw set but I ran in to a problem. The screws seem to be a few mm longer then factory. So where I have screws coming through a piece from both sides they bottom out on each other before tight. Also if I try to mount the shock tower with them the screws interfere with the ball studs. Has anyone else run in to this problem? I already planed on ordering a nice small tap and die set that I can use with my RC cars and when I get it I will grind a few mm off of them so it’s not that big of a deal.
Also the weather here finally warmed up and I had the car out using my 6800 and 3 cell lipo and after 5 min the 6800 was damn near hot enough to burn me. This was with 1/10th TC wheels and 12t pinion and 60t spur. Any suggestions, should I be concerned?
I took my FT 18B apart to do a clean build in the diffs and to clean and oil the bearings so I decided to install my RC screws stainless screw set but I ran in to a problem. The screws seem to be a few mm longer then factory. So where I have screws coming through a piece from both sides they bottom out on each other before tight. Also if I try to mount the shock tower with them the screws interfere with the ball studs. Has anyone else run in to this problem? I already planed on ordering a nice small tap and die set that I can use with my RC cars and when I get it I will grind a few mm off of them so it’s not that big of a deal.
Also the weather here finally warmed up and I had the car out using my 6800 and 3 cell lipo and after 5 min the 6800 was damn near hot enough to burn me. This was with 1/10th TC wheels and 12t pinion and 60t spur. Any suggestions, should I be concerned?
run a heatsink or run without a body or somthing.....i run without a body n have heatsinks on both my mamba and my wraith
Put a new servo in this weekend, a Hitec HS-65B, when my other servo stripped a gear. Anyone else using this servo? It works well, most of the time, but sometimes, during the race, it won't turn much. I'll crank the wheel on the radio, but the car has little steering and has a huge turning radius. Then the next corner, its working fine. Any ideas what's going on? Nothing is binding, that I can see, and the linkage all moves freely.
watever u do dont do that!!!!!! unless the pack is like half full or atleast 3/5's full......never top up a lipo....THEY FREAKIN EXPLODE!!!!!!!!!!!
Myself and quite a few others were topping off our lipo's at the nationals all weekend long and I didn't see anybody with exploding or puffy cells. You may need to invest in a different charger if you are having that problem. I was using an ICE. As Zake mentioned it very well may be a balancing problem also.
We are running trinity cobalt 16t in our 18T(14/60) gearing with a 3R motor fan. It runs on a carpet road course ( 36'x100') It gets a little warm on the longer runs of 7 minutes or more. Any suggestions.?
Nothing you can do about that- all motors will get a little warm. It's when it starts hitting 160deg F that you might get worried.
Well I was doing some speed runs with my 6800 and 3cell lipo out front of my house trying to check my high speed stability and steering. I think I finally have a setup that works or well had one. I am running HPI TC wheels and tires on my 18B. With the first set of 4’ I used there stock split foam insert and pro compound tires. I found that every time I tried to turn, the front wheels would dig in and the car would flip. In then end after a few runs the foam inserts separated where the split comes together leaving me with a flat spots. So I bought a new set of wheels with the HPI yellow one piece inserts and pro compound tires for the rear and hard compund for the front. This setup was working very well, until I hit a stone in the road and cartwheeled 20 feet before slamming in to a car tire. Bent a front and rear CVD cracked the output shaft of my rear MIP Diff. Busted a C hub and steering knuckle and a rear control arm. So now I have another $250 in spare parts and tools on the way from towers. I guess I need to start going to a parking lot to test my setups and tweak them.
On a side note I am considering getting a set of AE nitro TC shock for my buggy. I know the TC shocks are the same length but since I run a rear shock tower in the front I don’t see that being much of a problem. I only run this buggy on road and with TC wheels. I am sure my 18B weighs quite a bit less then the Nitro TC so I will have to use the soft springs. Right now I am running the gold rear and blue front with stock shock oil. Not sure what oil I will try with the TC shocks. Anyway just wondering if anyone else has tried something like this?
TC shocks are great on the rc18's, get sine medium soft springs or soft springs with like 50w oil in the shocks.... its very nice
im running tc shocks in the back with soft springs and 20w oil, andstock front shocks with the long blue rear springs in the front with 20w oil, realy soft and i needa amp it up abit...
try some FOAM tc wheels, i have realised i just cannt get traction with rubber on my rc18, its either too light or too powerfull, and if i do itll just get upto speed n spin out, rubber at 120kph is not a good mix
I might give foam a try, one thing for sure they can’t wear out any faster then I have destroyed the first 2 sets of rubber. Not that there is anything wrong with the tread. To be honest they still look new. But I do get nice traction with the pro compound HPI tires. Enough that the front wheels tend to come off the ground on demand.
i got foams on my rc18t with soft ass suspension..
19/51 gearing with a wraith 7k and mamba with 11.1v 1800mah lipo wtith nearly the whole front end in alloy ,arms, c hubs,knuckles,shock tower and a hs81mg servo and it pops wheelies on demand......
Foam is the thing for some hispeed...i use custommade wheels, MLST rims with 1:8 track foams 30s...8000 rpm/v and 11/60..aint much BUT with 4s Lipo, this is a BEAST...will roast the most of the 1:18 cars 118400 rpms...
check out the blog, have a link to my 1st try with 4s lipo blog
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