I've read nearly every page here and nobody has mentioned the differene between the 280 motor in the RC18T and the "super" 370 motor in the RC18B. Anyone have experience with these? What is the deal?
they both are closed end bell stock motors. They gave decent speed but once they wear they lose speed.... Most people run them for a short amount of time then hop up.....
I remember the 280s didnt last long. I know mine was replaced by a mini max....
Has anybody mounted a late model body to an rc18t?? I bought one and was ready to start mounting it and suddenly realized that the tiny mounting posts on the stock shock towers were way too short, and I can't find an aftermarket mounting kit. I really hate to break out a Dremel and start jury rigging something up, but I may have to. Any help appreciated!
u may have to unless u get like integy or sumthing shock towers which have longer posts......i know i had to for my hummer....
I've read nearly every page here and nobody has mentioned the differene between the 280 motor in the RC18T and the "super" 370 motor in the RC18B. Anyone have experience with these? What is the deal?
can't stand the 280, too slow, i get can good speed out of the 370 with the right gearing.
Has anybody mounted a late model body to an rc18t?? I bought one and was ready to start mounting it and suddenly realized that the tiny mounting posts on the stock shock towers were way too short, and I can't find an aftermarket mounting kit. I really hate to break out a Dremel and start jury rigging something up, but I may have to. Any help appreciated!
Try www.thetoyz.com he has some aftermarket shock towers for the 18t.
Nitro TC3 Rear body mounts AE #2230 are an exact fit.
As for the front, stock works for the PTI R-390 (#915003) body I put on mine. I had to sand off the 'washer' parts so the posts stuck up more thru the body
Allan
Last edited by Centerline Racing; 03-31-2008 at 01:08 PM.
Just a quick noob question....but why is everyone mounting there rear shocks on the inside rather than the outside???.....it looks like the only affect is that it gives the car a tiny bit more wheelbase being the way the lower arms are made.....????
Just a quick noob question....but why is everyone mounting there rear shocks on the inside rather than the outside???.....it looks like the only affect is that it gives the car a tiny bit more wheelbase being the way the lower arms are made.....????
your completely right......and this does help with stability....ive done the front and back and its great for high speed...very stable
Doing my due diligence here before purchasing an RC18. I like the looks of the RC18B more than the RC18T, the MT is not in consideration. Where I plan to race is a carpet track, they run foams. The RC18B has narrow front wheels and wide rears, where the 18T has wide wheels all around. I've only seen 1 size foam tires, how do they fit on the 18B?
The B, T, and MT are all basicly the same truck. Doesn't matter which one you get - the foams will work. I started off with the Factory Team version, my friend started with the MT; they can be made identical within 15 minutes.
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Thanks Quinton. I'm on a really tight budget, thinking of going with the RTR to get the electronics, motor and battery. Is there much of an advantage to getting the FT over the RTR?
The FT comes with some really good hop ups......
threaded aluminum shocks, hs motormount, ti adj tierods, carbide diff balls,aluminum dog bones (good but MIP cvds are the best) cf battery strap, servo saver and pinion assortment. (hop ups are almost the cost of the kit)
Since you are on a budget the rtr will be a good way to start out. The stock radio is pretty good for an AM radio. Then down the road as you get some cash you can upgrade. First off invest in a good peak detection charger
about $50.
The stock radio is pretty good for an AM radio. Then down the road as you get some cash you can upgrade. First off invest in a good peak detection charger
about $50.
Thanks Bermbuster. I know about the radio, got one with my RC10GT+ RTR. It's not a bad radio, I might stick with it to see how precise I need to be with a little truck/buggy. Later on get a SR3500 receiver and use my Spektrum transmitter if I need better DR adjustments. And I already race electrics; I have an ICE charger.
I believe sometimes it's hard to justify the cost of a kit, when an RTR can get you racing so much quicker. Even if I use my Spektrum or XS3 radio I'd still need a battery, ESC and a motor. That's another $50+ over the cost of the RTR and I don't have to take one of my cars apart.
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