I took it apart, and the front diff was kinda tight. I could twist it with my hands, but there was a little resistance compared to the rear diff. So I loosened it up a bit and put it back together and now it does the same thing it did forward but now in reverse. So I guess I have to tighten the front diff a little and then see what it does from there.
Could an overtightened front diff be causing it to make it go faster in reverse than forward?
The only real problem with running an overtightened diff would be possible damage to the parts (either flattened balls or scratched rings) or a funky handling characteristic. The tightness of the diffs should not affect the difference in acceleration between forward and reverse, unless one diff is REALLY loose, as in slipping like crazy.
The diff should feel the same whether it is slightly loose or a little tight, the only difference being the resistance you feel. It should be as smooth as a bearing. If you notice that it gets "scratchy" as you tighten or loosen it, or it seems to have bad spots, the balls are damaged. Just replace the diff balls and rings!
I usually run mine just loose enough that if you spin one wheel by hand, the opposing wheel spins the opposite direction, but there is no slipping when you get on the throttle. You can definitely tell when a diff is too loose.
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Novak Electronics - Team BlackOps - Team XRAY- Jaco Racing
Depends, what tires will you be using? Also, if there are jumps involved it will affect things. Here are the setups I typically use:
FOAM
Front:
70 wt. oil, gold spring, arms level
1* toe-out, 1* camber
Normal diff tightness
Rear:
50 wt. oil, blue spring, arms level
1* toe-in, 1* camber
Normal diff tightness
(all shocks in middle hole)
If the car feels a little twitchy with this setup due to high traction, lay the front shocks down 1 hole. This is the setup I use on a low/med traction carpet.
I just use the stock Associated rubber tires without the pins (smoothed down) and they hook up great. Either of these will be a decent starting setup and I've won with both.
For a larger, sweeping track or if the rubber tire setup is just a bit loose, you can add 1 mm shims underneath the camber link ball studs at either end to add a little more roll into the vehicle. I personally run 1 shim under each all around with rubber tires since they are more rounded than foam tires, but you may not need them.
ALSO Exotek's 6* caster hubs are nice if you have them.
Hope this helps......
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Novak Electronics - Team BlackOps - Team XRAY- Jaco Racing
What foams will you be running? Specifically what brand and shore rating/color?
On a smaller or more technical track you will want the car to be a little more "twitchy" (roll less) so to speak so that it will transition from turn to turn and through chicanes quickly. If you won't be running on any jumps, I'd actually get the truck to sit as low as possible without the chassis rubbing the ground (4-5 mm give or take).
One trick is to add fuel tubing underneath the shock piston to shorten the entire shock. This is handy for getting the truck set exactly at the height you want, especially since the front and rear shock assemblies are different lengths and use different shocks.
You can also put the front shock shaft in the rear shocks to shorten them! There are lotsa tricks for setting ride height on these things.
Yes, the first setup should be a decent starting point.
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Novak Electronics - Team BlackOps - Team XRAY- Jaco Racing
thanks again as for the the foams i think they are losi mini t not sure came with the truck when i bought it do you recomend any foams to use or any other parts to upgrade these things i also have one with a brushless setup that i want to run outside any help with setup for that would be great
I had quality problems with the Losi foams. I thought I had bent stub axles because the wheels would wobble really bad, all 4 of them. Turns out, the wheels were just made that way! If you do use them and they aren't trued down, put CA glue on the very outer edge of at least the fronts. From what I remember they are pink or double pink (soft) and can traction roll the truck fairly easily.
To be honest the new and improved Associated 18T foams are good. They kept the same diameter but only made the wheel itself larger. I think they look better and should perform better than the older style, also.
Parma also makes foams. My only complaint was that the wheel material itself was fairly soft and flexible. The soft wheel along with the soft foam density caused some chunking when I used them. However, having that extra little amount of cushion made the truck great coming off of jumps!
My favorite foams are the BRP's. They come already trued down to a good size, and the fronts have a harder foam on the outside to prevent traction rolling. Those would be my first choice.
Hope this helps!
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Novak Electronics - Team BlackOps - Team XRAY- Jaco Racing
Just a question, I recently got a brushless system with a 7800kv motor for my RC18T and I mostly raced it at a local parking lot track, but I just bought myself an 18R for asphalt racing in the 18R STOCK class only. Now I will be turning my 18T back to an offroad setup. My question is, can I use my current brushless system with the 7800kv motor for offroad bashing in my 18T? My gearing is currently set at 12/60. Will it damage the motor bashing offroad due to the low torque of a 280 sized motor, and should I lower the pinion gear to 11 or 10 teeth? Thank you for any advice...
Just a question, I recently got a brushless system with a 7800kv motor for my RC18T and I mostly raced it at a local parking lot track, but I just bought myself an 18R for asphalt racing in the 18R STOCK class only. Now I will be turning my 18T back to an offroad setup. My question is, can I use my current brushless system with the 7800kv motor for offroad bashing in my 18T? My gearing is currently set at 12/60. Will it damage the motor bashing offroad due to the low torque of a 280 sized motor, and should I lower the pinion gear to 11 or 10 teeth? Thank you for any advice...
Yes, you can use that system for an offroad setup. Traction won't be as great as asphalt, so you should be fine with that gearing setup. If it gets too hot, drop a tooth.
I had quality problems with the Losi foams. I thought I had bent stub axles because the wheels would wobble really bad, all 4 of them. Turns out, the wheels were just made that way! If you do use them and they aren't trued down, put CA glue on the very outer edge of at least the fronts. From what I remember they are pink or double pink (soft) and can traction roll the truck fairly easily.
To be honest the new and improved Associated 18T foams are good. They kept the same diameter but only made the wheel itself larger. I think they look better and should perform better than the older style, also.
Parma also makes foams. My only complaint was that the wheel material itself was fairly soft and flexible. The soft wheel along with the soft foam density caused some chunking when I used them. However, having that extra little amount of cushion made the truck great coming off of jumps!
My favorite foams are the BRP's. They come already trued down to a good size, and the fronts have a harder foam on the outside to prevent traction rolling. Those would be my first choice.
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