My Mini T has, integy carbon fibre chassis, dynamite blue alloy front arms,hubs,rear arms,hubs,front and rear shock tower,shock bodies,heat sink engine mount and gearbox case, 3 Racing hinge mounts front and rear, and 3 Racing finned engine cage, losi oil shocks, and titanium turnbuckles, ball bearings,dual disc slipper, MIP ball diff and CVD's, and depending on my mood either a mamba 8000kv or Orion Big block, and heaps of different wheels, and soon a Hitec HS56mg servo, more alloy bits new turnbuckles and ballends, alloy steering set etc just to make it bullet proof. And I race it on my track in my front yard. Oh and I have a stocker ( leftovers ) with a Trinity micro monster and a Baja body with the losi Paddles and sand rib fronts way cool.
Sorry for the crappy pics they are off of my phone, and taken when it was going together ( stock electronics now has spectrum and Nosram speedy or mamba esc)
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Cheers
Chow......
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Action R/C Team Schumacher Driver
Schumacher Mi4 -Mi3 - LRP - Spektrum - Ko - Action R/C
heydude do u have any spares for ur mini t that u dont need? its hard for me to find parts for mine wer i am......its box stock apart from a thunder tiger motor thats starting to stuff up on me and a couple of venom packs....thats about it ..lol and some 1/10 drag car axels i got in the back to mount my drag slicks...thats all
Yeah I have a few spares but , I find that I use them alot on other cars aswell, I mostly get mine off of Stormer Hobbies or RC Mart, they have heaps and real quick delivery...
__________________
Cheers
Chow......
_____________________________________________
Action R/C Team Schumacher Driver
Schumacher Mi4 -Mi3 - LRP - Spektrum - Ko - Action R/C
I'm running a stock chassis with a 7.4 Lipo and a 8000 kV Mamba system. Hopups to the original kit i had have been the addition of a ball-diff, DD slipper and CVDs.
Looking to buy the titanum turnbuckles and the integy purple evo-X kit to change the majority of the chassis over to alloy.
I am having a small amount of trouble with it at the moment. It appears to be driving on the rear right wheel more than the left. Not sure why, but it runs straight under rolling, but under power pushes left.
Tip for the wise: The last spare part I gave to ProudSavageOwnr (A 280 size Motor) got put up for sale a month or so later.
I'm running a stock chassis with a 7.4 Lipo and a 8000 kV Mamba system. Hopups to the original kit i had have been the addition of a ball-diff, DD slipper and CVDs.
Looking to buy the titanum turnbuckles and the integy purple evo-X kit to change the majority of the chassis over to alloy.
I am having a small amount of trouble with it at the moment. It appears to be driving on the rear right wheel more than the left. Not sure why, but it runs straight under rolling, but under power pushes left.
Tip for the wise: The last spare part I gave to ProudSavageOwnr (A 280 size Motor) got put up for sale a month or so later.
How tight is the diff ? are both rear wheels free to spin ? bearings or bushes? anything snagged in the hub? sounds like a diff problem but. How good is the mini T with the 8000 and 2cell lipo wait til you try 3 cells ....
__________________
Cheers
Chow......
_____________________________________________
Action R/C Team Schumacher Driver
Schumacher Mi4 -Mi3 - LRP - Spektrum - Ko - Action R/C
How tight is the diff ? are both rear wheels free to spin ? bearings or bushes? anything snagged in the hub? sounds like a diff problem but. How good is the mini T with the 8000 and 2cell lipo wait til you try 3 cells ....
my mini T with stock electronics and a thunder tiger 280 motor from the zk2 and a 800mah 2cell lipo runs for ages.....and i got a blown diff too lol...only 1 wheel turns the other is stuffed....lol
I'm still working on it. Looking to get a high Mah Lipo for it when i can. I'm thinking of actually making it a dragster with a long chassis. But to answer your question: It flys
How tight is the diff ? are both rear wheels free to spin ? bearings or bushes? anything snagged in the hub? sounds like a diff problem but. How good is the mini T with the 8000 and 2cell lipo wait til you try 3 cells ....
The diff is reasonably tight, and both rear wheels spin freely when not connected to a drive force. Bearings of course (First upgrade i did, besides the peak raider i had before the mamba). Nothing appears to be snagged, but I'm wondering if it's becuase the tyres are both practically bald, and one's just getting a little more grip on the drive.
I'm sort of holding off on the 3 Cell lipo. I'm not sure how well it'll fit into the standard chassis, plus my 2 cell lipo does wheel stands on command and flys as it is.
Hi all,
i am thinking of buying a rtr mini-t and i have a few questions.
1. How many turns can the stock esc handle?
2. Is there any hop-ups i should consider buying once i get it?
3. How fast do they go out of the box?
Thanks
The RTR kits doesn't NEED any hop-ups when you first get it (besides a ball bearing kit for the wheels), however I'd consider the following: A hop-up motor (Peak Raider, Reedy Mini-max, Trinity Mini-Monster). THe Stock ESC is pretty good. I ran a peak raider for a few hours and got no noticeable esc effects, although a "turn-limit" i really can't give you. I've never really heard of it not powering any of the 280 motors i can think of.
Other hop-ups you may want to consider is a ball diff and/or a dual disk slipper, particularly if you're planning on racing it at all. If you upgrade the motor, these two are very much essential. Other than those two, you can pretty much leave it stock for quite a while without any problems. Another option for hop-up is the shocks, as the friction shocks that come stock are very bouncy and lack the ability to produce a smooth ride in the way oil shocks do. If you consider doing all three of these, I'd think about buying the Mini-t Pro kit and finding some stock electronics elsewhere.
Stock out of the box speed i would estimate at 20-25 kph with a standard 7.2V NiMH pack and the bog standard 280.
Official Mini T thread
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