R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > Members List

merdith6 merdith6 is offline

Tech Elite

Visitor Messages

Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 4 of 4
  1. Jerm13
    09-21-2014 04:08 PM - permalink
    Jerm13
    Are you still looking for another B5/B6 Pro crank? I got one out of my blown up B5 Pro. Crank pin is measuring 4.94mm. Everything else is good. Has just about 9 gallons on it. No severe scratching or galling on it. Say $20 shipped to you. I have a bunch of other Werks stuff as well. Restrictors from 5.5mm to 7mm, and other parts from the B5. Hell if you want the case and head, I will send it all to you for 45 shipped. The rod broke at the top and smacked the sleeve so it is toast. Let me know.
  2. merdith6
    05-09-2012 02:07 PM - permalink
    merdith6
    By the way make sure you clean the outside of the engine really good before opening it. Use denatured alcohol and an old toothbrush..

    Ok now that you removed the head, and button, flywheel, and backplate I recommend not taking it apart all the way this time, but simply blasting the inside with denatured alcohol and gently spinning the crank slowly, and then spray it out with air compressor, then repeat a few times, then make sure it's dry and put plenty of oil inside. You can use castor oil, after run, oil, or Novarossi assembly oil. it works really good. Get it inside the rear bearing and spin it to help it go inside the bearings. Then reinstall everything being careful the piston is at the top when putting the backplate back in, and hold it while screwing in the screws. do not try to make the screws as tight as you can but really tight, be careful on that.

    If you want to know how to completely dissasemble the egine just ask. start with that first.
  3. merdith6
    05-09-2012 02:07 PM - permalink
    merdith6
    Ok. the first thig is be careful removing the backplate, the piston can be caught in the backplate if the piston is not at the top , then remove the backplate carefully, remove the head, flywheel, leave the carb on. Then gently remove the head button and save the shims.

    The first thing to do is turn the crank until the crankpin is on the side of the engine, then hold the conrod with ur finger pushing down, and turn the crank back and forth to check slop in the con rod bushing. If it's a big gap you need a new rod, if it just slightly moves then you should be fine.
  4. Nitro Tiger
    05-08-2012 10:07 PM - permalink
    Nitro Tiger
    Hey mate, could you give me a run down on pulling my engine down if possible , what to check, cleaning,what's best to use when re-oiling bearings etc, checking tolerances on crank, rod big and small ends anything else, seals.
    Would be greatly appreciated, both my motors are due for a full service and dont want to dive in there without some good advice first
    Cheers

    Wade

About Me

  • About merdith6
    Location
    Brazoria, TX
    Occupation
    Psychologist
  • Signature
    Mad Dog drives a Mugen MBX-7, Novarossi engines, Clockwork Racing, Futaba radio, AKA/Proline Tires

Statistics

Total Posts
Visitor Messages
General Information
  • Last Activity: 05-03-2017 08:00 PM
  • Join Date: 10-05-2009
  • Referrals: 0

Friends

Showing Friends 1 to 4 of 4

All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:09 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net