My little AX-10 Scorpion -- Very Quick Build
07-13-2008, 06:33 PM
#1
My little AX-10 Scorpion -- Very Quick Build
Hi guys 
, I'm back with another build. This round is the AX-10 chassis. My twins Jericho went holidays in Bahamas, so they are won't be in for a while (maybe next project 
)...
So here it is... the AX-10 kit, nicely packed in the box...
Firstly, the smell... eewwww!!!! need to leave it out in the air for some time...
I also got a few parts for the AX-10... Not all of them belong to me... some to my twin Jerichos... and some parts are spares...
, I'm back with another build. This round is the AX-10 chassis. My twins Jericho went holidays in Bahamas, so they are won't be in for a while (maybe next project )...So here it is... the AX-10 kit, nicely packed in the box...
Firstly, the smell... eewwww!!!! need to leave it out in the air for some time...
I also got a few parts for the AX-10... Not all of them belong to me... some to my twin Jerichos... and some parts are spares...
07-13-2008, 08:26 PM
#2
Here's how the packages looks like inside... What I like is the neatly arranged & clearly labelled bags. And the build process takes us through each bag, one-by-one in sequence...
What I don't like is some parts are mixed up in different bags, and on installation manual doesn't state clearly where each part (esp. screws) are coming from. However, it is not a serious problem... just need some patience to build it...
07-13-2008, 08:46 PM
#3
...Building the AX-10 starts from the axle diffs... I have decided not to use stock bevel gears, they look like they can break easily, and requires the use of shafts, pins & e-clips...
In replacement, are the heavy duty gears... the crown gear & output shafts are all in one piece, which makes installation very quick & easy. The bevel gears are very well machined & strong.
07-13-2008, 08:57 PM
#4
Wow... option parts also ah?
Frost,.. as for the tire smell.. this is what I did and it works for me..
1. Spray a generous amount of silicone spray on the tire...(all outer surface and sides).
2. Keep all tires in a tight plastic bag for a few days..
happy building!!
Frost,.. as for the tire smell.. this is what I did and it works for me..
1. Spray a generous amount of silicone spray on the tire...(all outer surface and sides).
2. Keep all tires in a tight plastic bag for a few days..
happy building!!
07-13-2008, 09:31 PM
#6
...In addition to the bevel gears, I am also going to replace the axle lockers. I know they look nice in green, but they're going to be sealed in the axle housing anyway, and they're very loose & sloppy upon fitting into diff case...
The original leather shimming that came with the green axle lockers will still be used...
Installing the axles is very easy and straight forward. Only thing I noticed after fitting the axle housing together, the edge near the hub carrier opens slightly. But this is easily fixed after installing the hub carrier.
As usual, apply a lot of grease at the bevel gear... bluish in color, I like the viscosity and tackiness; seems just right for the gears. I wish I had more of these...
With the hop-up diff lockers installed, the axles are not sloppy anymore...
07-13-2008, 09:39 PM
#7
Wow... option parts also ah?
Frost,.. as for the tire smell.. this is what I did and it works for me..
1. Spray a generous amount of silicone spray on the tire...(all outer surface and sides).
2. Keep all tires in a tight plastic bag for a few days..
happy building!!
Frost,.. as for the tire smell.. this is what I did and it works for me..
1. Spray a generous amount of silicone spray on the tire...(all outer surface and sides).
2. Keep all tires in a tight plastic bag for a few days..
happy building!!
07-13-2008, 09:46 PM
#8
...So here's how the axles look like after building... I have decided to use metal hub carriers and metal knuckles...
...Super strong knuckle sets!! I like
!! And they fit so nicely into the original axle housing...
I wish Axial provide us with quality hex screws, instead of black phillip screws, but they seem very hard metal and hold very well...
The upper linkage mount is made of tough plastic. I'm considering to upgrade this to metal after this project. The brackets are quite costly, so i might consider just get a complete billet axle next time...
Axial provided us with metal sealed inside bearings, and black rubber sealed for outer bearings. Good quality & standard size make it easier to find replacements. I like !!
...Super strong knuckle sets!! I like
!! And they fit so nicely into the original axle housing...I wish Axial provide us with quality hex screws, instead of black phillip screws, but they seem very hard metal and hold very well...
The upper linkage mount is made of tough plastic. I'm considering to upgrade this to metal after this project. The brackets are quite costly, so i might consider just get a complete billet axle next time...
Axial provided us with metal sealed inside bearings, and black rubber sealed for outer bearings. Good quality & standard size make it easier to find replacements. I like
!!
Last edited by Frost; 07-13-2008 at 10:01 PM.
07-13-2008, 10:11 PM
#9
...During installation of the knuckles, I noticed there is a gap in between the hub and knuckle. This makes steering rather sloppy and unprecise...
...A quick fix is to use about 0.8-1.0mm of shimming. Fast and easy ...
Here's how it looks like after shimming...
Snug fit and nice...
Axial provided their customers with very beautiful sets of wheels hubs (in green of course), but unfortunately, there is a raised surface near the axle hole meant for use with Axial beadlock wheels. This makes it slightly difficult to install after-market wheels to the hub...
So the solution is to use Tamiya's 6mm clamp type wheel hubs. With these, I can install any after-market 12mm beadlock wheels that I like
...A quick fix is to use about 0.8-1.0mm of shimming. Fast and easy
...Here's how it looks like after shimming...
Snug fit and nice
...Axial provided their customers with very beautiful sets of wheels hubs (in green of course
), but unfortunately, there is a raised surface near the axle hole meant for use with Axial beadlock wheels. This makes it slightly difficult to install after-market wheels to the hub...So the solution is to use Tamiya's 6mm clamp type wheel hubs. With these, I can install any after-market 12mm beadlock wheels that I like
07-13-2008, 10:40 PM
#10
...Here's how the axles look like...
...Here's another view. Even with stock dog bones, they don't slip out of the axle cup easily.
The diff output bearings seem a little difficult to seat in at first... but with some patience & gentle force, it gets through nicely...
...Here's another view. Even with stock dog bones, they don't slip out of the axle cup easily.
The diff output bearings seem a little difficult to seat in at first... but with some patience & gentle force, it gets through nicely...
07-13-2008, 10:56 PM
#11
...coming up next....
...the linkages and shafts....
...I only want to have slightly more clearance (but not overly, like the super class), so I have decided on a set of powder coated 30° bent lower links. What I like about these bent links are that they come with metal rod ends... Not that they're so important, but I like anyway...
...The upper linkages are stock. But I have decided to use the metal upper link mounts
. There's going to be a bit of stress here especially during chassis articulation... 
Axial put in a lot of thoughts about the length of the linkages. They all fit together very well...
As usual, I would upgrade to metal drive shafts
... Axial provide us with 2 pairs metal yokes for both front and rear shafts, but the drive splines are made of plastic 
, and they don't last...
...the linkages and shafts....
...I only want to have slightly more clearance (but not overly, like the super class), so I have decided on a set of powder coated 30° bent lower links
. What I like about these bent links are that they come with metal rod ends... Not that they're so important, but I like anyway......The upper linkages are stock. But I have decided to use the metal upper link mounts
. There's going to be a bit of stress here especially during chassis articulation... Axial put in a lot of thoughts about the length of the linkages. They all fit together very well...
As usual, I would upgrade to metal drive shafts
... Axial provide us with 2 pairs metal yokes for both front and rear shafts, but the drive splines are made of plastic , and they don't last...
07-13-2008, 11:43 PM
#12
...Obviously, the next step is to get all the linkages and shafts connected to the axles...
Hmm... They look like ugly jelly fishes...
Axial provides shocks springs that are a little too hard, and the plastic shocks can leak oil after a while. I am still in search for a better set of shocks. So temporarily, for the time being, I'm settling with these metal threaded shocks.
These shocks don't have diaphram inside, & only a single O-ring at the outer cap. So only the right amount of oil is required, or else, oil will leak out when the shock compresses...
...Comes with medium soft spring set, and adjustable. Only 2-hole pistons, simple, but it works quite efficiently & smooth...
Stock 30wt silicone oil is used for now... seem to match nicely with the springs...
Hmm... They look like ugly jelly fishes...
Axial provides shocks springs that are a little too hard, and the plastic shocks can leak oil after a while. I am still in search for a better set of shocks. So temporarily, for the time being, I'm settling with these metal threaded shocks.
These shocks don't have diaphram inside, & only a single O-ring at the outer cap. So only the right amount of oil is required, or else, oil will leak out when the shock compresses...
...Comes with medium soft spring set, and adjustable. Only 2-hole pistons, simple, but it works quite efficiently & smooth...
Stock 30wt silicone oil is used for now...
seem to match nicely with the springs...
07-14-2008, 12:06 AM
#14
...ok.. enough with jellyfishes and wind chimes...
Let's take a look at the transmission parts... I am going to use some upgrades...
Here they are....
The Axial transmission is amazingly small (smaller than photo above), and such design will definitely go thru a lot of stress... For this reason, I have opted for metal gears & slipper clutch. The gears are made of steel and very strong
... to ensure accurate meshing between the gears & avoid premature wear, I will use metal transmission casing...
Let's take a look at the transmission parts... I am going to use some upgrades...
Here they are....
The Axial transmission is amazingly small (smaller than photo above), and such design will definitely go thru a lot of stress... For this reason, I have opted for metal gears & slipper clutch. The gears are made of steel and very strong
... to ensure accurate meshing between the gears & avoid premature wear, I will use metal transmission casing...
07-14-2008, 12:20 AM
#15
...building the transmission is very straight forward and easy... but my personal opinion, the installation guide didn't quite well describe it, moreover especially when the slipper clutch is used. It is adviseable to use some shimming here too...
For the purpose of installing the slipper clutch, I used a longer spur output shaft. The photo below shows the length difference between the two output shafts...
Put the correct transmission bearings in; lubricate with grease all moving parts, and close the casing to form a neat, compact & efficient transmission block.
Now I begin to understand why the AX-10 is so popular... I like!!
For the purpose of installing the slipper clutch, I used a longer spur output shaft. The photo below shows the length difference between the two output shafts...
Put the correct transmission bearings in; lubricate with grease all moving parts, and close the casing to form a neat, compact & efficient transmission block.
Now I begin to understand why the AX-10 is so popular...
I like!!