Newbies! Post Your Questions Here!
08-01-2003, 01:46 AM
#61
Originally posted by x_man
Oh InitialD, you forget to mentioned that a one way set up will work only if the front and rear drive ratio are the same or the front is faster (Front pulling).
Else if using a smaller diameter tire in the front with front and rear drive ration the same, you will end up with a rear wheel drive car on the straight, but a 4wd on the turns tough....
Oh InitialD, you forget to mentioned that a one way set up will work only if the front and rear drive ratio are the same or the front is faster (Front pulling).
Else if using a smaller diameter tire in the front with front and rear drive ration the same, you will end up with a rear wheel drive car on the straight, but a 4wd on the turns tough....
On a front one way diff, when underdrive happens, on power the one way front will free wheel when the back wheels pushes the front. Off power, the front wheels can freewheel and rotate independently from the drivetrain. So the drag is not as bad when using front solid or gear diff during underdrive where the front wheels cannot freewheel.
This also happens the same when the car is in overdrive mode. When the front wheels are bigger than the rear (this usually happens), the front wheels will pull the rear. On a one way front diff and when off throttle, because the front wheels can free wheel, the front and rear can rotate independently. Therefore, you don't have drag unlike when using front solid or gear diff.
You want the car to overdrive when you are on a technical track. You want the car to move where you point the car to. Depending on driving styles, some people like to drive a car that is overdriven. On a larger track, underdrive is used to compensate for the unequal front and rear tire wear. Most people use about 1 to 2 mm smaller tires than the rear. Off power, you get a little more steering because the front of the car sits lower while on power, you'll get a slight understeer because the rear pushes the front.
08-02-2003, 09:45 AM
#62
Whoo0A!, Hold your horses!, InitialD,
I believe you are giving the newbies a PhD already!
PHD------> Permanent Head Damage.
Maybe you should just give them a MBA instead of a PhD..
MBA------> Moderately Basic Answers.
I believe you are giving the newbies a PhD already!
PHD------> Permanent Head Damage.
Maybe you should just give them a MBA instead of a PhD..
MBA------> Moderately Basic Answers.
08-03-2003, 05:00 PM
#63
Originally posted by InitialD
Well, you actually can have underdrive when on one way front diff as well. In fact for those who choose to underdrive the car, a one way front diff is the only way to go. On power with a solid front axle or a gear diff, the rear wheels will push the front of the car and the front wheels will drag the car's drive train making it undriveable and will ultimately slow the car down, not to mention straining the engine. Off power, the drag is also apparent as the front wheels will seem like it's being pushed by the rear while still being locked together in the drivetrain...
On a front one way diff, when underdrive happens, on power the one way front will free wheel when the back wheels pushes the front. Off power, the front wheels can freewheel and rotate independently from the drivetrain. So the drag is not as bad when using front solid or gear diff during underdrive where the front wheels cannot freewheel.
This also happens the same when the car is in overdrive mode. When the front wheels are bigger than the rear (this usually happens), the front wheels will pull the rear. On a one way front diff and when off throttle, because the front wheels can free wheel, the front and rear can rotate independently. Therefore, you don't have drag unlike when using front solid or gear diff.
You want the car to overdrive when you are on a technical track. You want the car to move where you point the car to. Depending on driving styles, some people like to drive a car that is overdriven. On a larger track, underdrive is used to compensate for the unequal front and rear tire wear. Most people use about 1 to 2 mm smaller tires than the rear. Off power, you get a little more steering because the front of the car sits lower while on power, you'll get a slight understeer because the rear pushes the front.
Well, you actually can have underdrive when on one way front diff as well. In fact for those who choose to underdrive the car, a one way front diff is the only way to go. On power with a solid front axle or a gear diff, the rear wheels will push the front of the car and the front wheels will drag the car's drive train making it undriveable and will ultimately slow the car down, not to mention straining the engine. Off power, the drag is also apparent as the front wheels will seem like it's being pushed by the rear while still being locked together in the drivetrain...
On a front one way diff, when underdrive happens, on power the one way front will free wheel when the back wheels pushes the front. Off power, the front wheels can freewheel and rotate independently from the drivetrain. So the drag is not as bad when using front solid or gear diff during underdrive where the front wheels cannot freewheel.
This also happens the same when the car is in overdrive mode. When the front wheels are bigger than the rear (this usually happens), the front wheels will pull the rear. On a one way front diff and when off throttle, because the front wheels can free wheel, the front and rear can rotate independently. Therefore, you don't have drag unlike when using front solid or gear diff.
You want the car to overdrive when you are on a technical track. You want the car to move where you point the car to. Depending on driving styles, some people like to drive a car that is overdriven. On a larger track, underdrive is used to compensate for the unequal front and rear tire wear. Most people use about 1 to 2 mm smaller tires than the rear. Off power, you get a little more steering because the front of the car sits lower while on power, you'll get a slight understeer because the rear pushes the front.
for ultimate results in car set-up follow the above suggestion.
08-03-2003, 07:37 PM
#64
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
Yeap! Running front and rear diffs are much more easier to control then using Front One-way and read solid.
Running diffs, u can break strongly into a corner where else if ur running on a One-way/Solid combo, braking isnt an option ! You can only break lightly
Try running One-way/solid combo and break hard while taking a corner ..... u can see ur car go whoooooshhhhhhhhhhh !PIANG! and everything break 
Running diffs, u can break strongly into a corner where else if ur running on a One-way/Solid combo, braking isnt an option ! You can only break lightly
Try running One-way/solid combo and break hard while taking a corner ..... u can see ur car go whoooooshhhhhhhhhhh !PIANG! and everything break
08-03-2003, 08:35 PM
#65
Originally posted by AdR|aN
Running diffs, u can break strongly into a corner where else if ur running on a One-way/Solid combo, braking isnt an option ! You can only break lightly
Running diffs, u can break strongly into a corner where else if ur running on a One-way/Solid combo, braking isnt an option ! You can only break lightly
Well, not may people will drive one way with solid rear axle combo. Rear tire wear will be very high. Most people even if they run one way front will run using a rear diff. Easier on the tires and more forgiving on the throttle.
But imagine when driving with a one way front and rear solid axle will get every ounce of power from the engine to the tires on the track
No need to complain and change engine everytime when you think your engine has lost power... In this case, even a 3 port engine will do
08-03-2003, 09:09 PM
#66
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
Yeap. One-way/solid combo can get every ounce of hp from the engine to the tyres very fast. Even pickup is dammed fast compared to diffs front and rear .....
08-03-2003, 10:04 PM
#67
Originally posted by InitialD
Who needs brakes when you drive in Seremban 2?
Well, not may people will drive one way with solid rear axle combo. Rear tire wear will be very high. Most people even if they run one way front will run using a rear diff. Easier on the tires and more forgiving on the throttle.
But imagine when driving with a one way front and rear solid axle will get every ounce of power from the engine to the tires on the track No need to complain and change engine everytime when you think your engine has lost power... In this case, even a 3 port engine will do
Who needs brakes when you drive in Seremban 2?
Well, not may people will drive one way with solid rear axle combo. Rear tire wear will be very high. Most people even if they run one way front will run using a rear diff. Easier on the tires and more forgiving on the throttle.
But imagine when driving with a one way front and rear solid axle will get every ounce of power from the engine to the tires on the track
No need to complain and change engine everytime when you think your engine has lost power... In this case, even a 3 port engine will do
Otherwise the rest no need brakes. 1 way good for sweepers and s-bends. Damn those 1-ways.
08-03-2003, 11:18 PM
#68
Originally posted by spawn
NTC3 drivers must use brakes to take the u-turn otherwise will run into the ppl seated in the pit area! Otherwise the rest no need brakes. 1 way good for sweepers and s-bends. Damn those 1-ways.
NTC3 drivers must use brakes to take the u-turn otherwise will run into the ppl seated in the pit area!
Otherwise the rest no need brakes. 1 way good for sweepers and s-bends. Damn those 1-ways.
Well, for the NTC3, you can actually use one ways and have a little drag brakes applied off throttle.The problem with one way diffs in NTC3 is that your crown pinion diffs will not last long.
08-05-2003, 06:14 PM
#69
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
Hey guys, anyone out there into airbrushing bodyshells??
08-05-2003, 07:30 PM
#71
Originally posted by spawn
Dear guys!! is there a shake-up in the RC in Malaysia now? or are the hobby shops killing each other?somehow I feel that something is not right going on at this moment. what do you guys think?
Dear guys!! is there a shake-up in the RC in Malaysia now? or are the hobby shops killing each other?somehow I feel that something is not right going on at this moment. what do you guys think?
maybe we can share and get info from guys from other
state.
08-05-2003, 07:40 PM
#72
Originally posted by spawn
Dear guys!! is there a shake-up in the RC in Malaysia now? or are the hobby shops killing each other?somehow I feel that something is not right going on at this moment. what do you guys think?
Dear guys!! is there a shake-up in the RC in Malaysia now? or are the hobby shops killing each other?somehow I feel that something is not right going on at this moment. what do you guys think?
everytime i walk into my LHS,they'd be cursing the other shops.
mostly towards Mdm at Ampang.used to be they wud even recommend other shops(like ampang for kyosho,tp for TC3)but now not anymore.
what's ur story spawn?
08-05-2003, 07:43 PM
#73
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
Since the price war started amond the LHS, the price for everything has gone down the drain.
Even in JB, price wars are making everything cheaper.
Well, its good news for us RC kaki's but bad news for those ppl who are doing business in this line.
I believe that profit is lowered compared to last time but hey ..... we are all consumers here ......
SO wat the hell are we complaining about ????
Even in JB, price wars are making everything cheaper.
Well, its good news for us RC kaki's but bad news for those ppl who are doing business in this line.
I believe that profit is lowered compared to last time but hey ..... we are all consumers here ......
SO wat the hell are we complaining about ????
08-05-2003, 07:44 PM
#74
Originally posted by AdR|aN
Hey guys, anyone out there into airbrushing bodyshells??
Hey guys, anyone out there into airbrushing bodyshells??
People who are into air brushing are mostly into small scale model miniatures... Rarely RC
Those who are in RC probably will not give two hoots about how good the bodyshell looks (especially Nitro) because firstly, they get dirty unlike EP cars, second, with the speed the car goes and with the all the flying cars around the track, the bodyshell rarely survives 2 or 3 months... Sometimes less So what may look like a fantastic effort will go down the drain after a few runs...
08-05-2003, 07:46 PM
#75
Originally posted by spawn
Dear guys!! is there a shake-up in the RC in Malaysia now? or are the hobby shops killing each other?somehow I feel that something is not right going on at this moment. what do you guys think?
Dear guys!! is there a shake-up in the RC in Malaysia now? or are the hobby shops killing each other?somehow I feel that something is not right going on at this moment. what do you guys think?