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Old 03-17-2008, 11:37 PM   #16
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Offroad doesn't have to invest..........that much ! It doesn't makes a big difference.

Essential parts: Tires ( you got to have a variety for wet, dry, sandy, etc )

Once you got the basics, already start racing or bashing.

Air filter foams are important, change them regularly. Try to get a outer filter would be ideal as it will filter away, 60% of dirt, keeping the main filter clean.

Agree on the filter part as i've seen engine with loose filter neck that had dirt run into the engine already.haiiiiii new engine that got a great warm up hahahahahaha.
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Old 03-17-2008, 11:40 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by James khoo View Post
Example';

Tire for sandy,hard pack and so on.which brand and tread.
Hmmm for tyres i have now proline crime fighter M2 and M3 and i think both is ok for glenmarie track just that most of the time think M2 works better.I use M2 for last sunday race but don't like the feel of it so change it to Proline bow tie M3 and it did a great job.

Bro hope you don't mind explaining which type of tyre for what type of surface as i do not know also and if with picture then i think it'll be very usefull for all bros here .
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Old 03-18-2008, 01:49 AM   #18
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oh tires !

For race:-

Can't go wrong with Proline crime fighter and bowtie.

Crime fighter - good for dusty conditions
Bowtie - Any conditions without dust
Cell block - Rain conditions and sticky conditions

Slippery track - Crime fighter M3
Track with good grid without dust - Crime fighter M2, Bowtie M2

As explained,

I seen many invested thousands of dollars in the engine.

But bear in mind, the critical aspect to a long life engine would be the air filter. Just like I said invest in filter for both inner and outer filter ( double protection ) would do your engine good. It's only 10% of the engine costs, and the engine will last you 12 months at a minimum.

Do not race with your bashing engine. Use a separate engine if you race. You don't have to buy a super expensive engine as I don't see a big significant different in power. Brands like GO, STS, LRP, Sheng Hong are very budget engine and blady fast.

Race day performance:

Like Lobil said, racing different layout definitely help. Going clock wise and anti clockwise gives a drivers a feel of different braking point, acceleration, corner apex, speed, etc

It is not important which track we race but it's the experience of be able to race under what conditions. in off road driving, you will need to adapt the change very quickly as conditions changes when the race goes on.

Heat 1 - fast and smooth track
Heat 2 - track slower due to pot holes building up
Heat 3 - Holes even bigger now and you must find ways to go round it

Worst scenario, RAIN - setup, tires combination, driving lines, engine tunning will all change again.

Practice at the track everyday and same layout will only make you a fast driver in the that layout and conditions.

But when at a particular race, you find yourself dropping out of pace, this is because you are not comfortable at the rate the track is changing and you find it hard to adapt. So your results suffer. Learn to drive under different conditions and layout will make you a better driver one day.

I and many have benefitted from years of racing under no permanent track scenario which organisers put up track before the race and take it off when it is over. So conditions is always different.

In equipment wise, spending $$$ will not help you at all. As this is offroad and not other classes of racing. Get decent equipment would be sufficient. Tires are crucial as mention.

ok that's for now.

Ciao

DT
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Old 03-18-2008, 02:01 AM   #19
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Wow!well say Danny,thanks for the tips.

Yes,the track condition is changing every heat of racing,so,do we need to set up our car for the worst condition?
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Old 03-18-2008, 03:42 AM   #20
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huh ! what tips ?

offroad quite standard one............no much to do one !
Mr.Danny how about diff oil for front,center and rear?
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Old 03-18-2008, 03:55 AM   #21
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James khoo

Quote:
Yes,the track condition is changing every heat of racing,so,do we need to set up our car for the worst condition?
Yes it is always a safe bet.

Quote:
Mr.Danny how about diff oil for front,center and rear?
Drivers coming into the hobby............best diff setup

Front - 5K, Center - 5K, Rear - 2K

This settings the car to be easily driven and very forgiving.

Btw, all this are my opinion, it may varies from person to person.

DT
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:29 AM   #22
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James khoo



Yes it is always a safe bet.



Drivers coming into the hobby............best diff setup

Front - 5K, Center - 5K, Rear - 2K

This settings the car to be easily driven and very forgiving.

Btw, all this are my opinion, it may varies from person to person.

DT

Any prob when handling a car if using more than 10k diff oil for front,center and rear?
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:32 AM   #23
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Thanks Mr danny for the tips i think it's usefull but wondering what is the cell block tyre.

Thanks as i think this info is so useful to all newbies like me.
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Old 03-18-2008, 07:01 AM   #24
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Thanks Mr danny for the tips i think it's usefull but wondering what is the cell block tyre.

Thanks as i think this info is so useful to all newbies like me.
Think of it as a Bow Tie which has almost microscopic thread. The pins are smaller and shorter, which means it minimizes mud that sticks to the tire. On the contrary, if you use bow ties, dirty harrys or crime fighters, these tires will turn to slick mud tires
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Old 03-18-2008, 07:09 AM   #25
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Any prob when handling a car if using more than 10k diff oil for front,center and rear?
Car feels numb. Again, a car's setup is wrong only when the driver does not achieve what he/she wants

But like what Danny tailow says, tires are a major contribution to the car's overall performance, so start with the tires first if possible
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Old 03-19-2008, 12:52 AM   #26
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Car feels numb. Again, a car's setup is wrong only when the driver does not achieve what he/she wants

But like what Danny tailow says, tires are a major contribution to the car's overall performance, so start with the tires first if possible
TQVM Bro...
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Old 03-19-2008, 07:25 PM   #27
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Can anyone explain,double brek pad and single brek pad function???
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Old 03-19-2008, 09:08 PM   #28
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My take of single and double disc (per side) is double for newbies and single for seasoned

I use the brake for positioning the car into a corner, slow coach infront of me, and leveling of the rig while airborne.

Brakes are suppose to drag and not jammed but then again it is personal preference.
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Old 03-20-2008, 09:17 AM   #29
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Mr khoo can you explain more about single and double brake pad.All i know about break is to put springs in it so that it doesn't jam when we press the brake and at the moment my driving still very bad as i do not response to the brake when i go into the corners.
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Old 03-20-2008, 06:33 PM   #30
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Mr khoo can you explain more about single and double brake pad.All i know about break is to put springs in it so that it doesn't jam when we press the brake and at the moment my driving still very bad as i do not response to the brake when i go into the corners.

Aikyah,Some driver said that double brake pad provide more stoping power,but i didn't think so,why because if you doing some service on you pad,the brake function will be good enough to stop your buggy
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