Nitro fuel -which brand and why?
12-21-2002, 05:17 AM
#1
Nitro fuel -which brand and why?
I'd like to hear everyone's opinion about the nitro fuel brand you're using.
Personally I use Gammalube, its ok but I haven't had an engine go out yet.
In JB, we can get Tornado, Blue Thunder, Gammalube and something the Daisheng/Tamiya guys sell.... I wish we had more options like O'Donnels or Byron and Sidewinder... but I don't suppose the economics or the logistics make it viable.
Personally I use Gammalube, its ok but I haven't had an engine go out yet.
In JB, we can get Tornado, Blue Thunder, Gammalube and something the Daisheng/Tamiya guys sell.... I wish we had more options like O'Donnels or Byron and Sidewinder... but I don't suppose the economics or the logistics make it viable.
12-21-2002, 09:54 AM
#2
Byron, Sidewinder, Tornado, Blue Thunder, Model Technic and Gammalube fuels can ge gotten here in KL. I think Daisheng sells Powertrack? So far I have not seen O'Donnels or Blue Thunder over here.
The major brands that are currently being used here in KL are Byron, Model Technic and Tornado. It must tell something then when these fuels are widely used when other fuel brands are available.
How much percentage lubrication does Gammalube have? I heard that the Byron is quite similar to Gammalube. I could be wrong.
The highest lubrication content I know is Byron at 12% so much so that the top of the engine piston goes black from the excess burnt castor oil. The same also goes for Powertrack.
The cleanest burn is apparently Tornado and Model Technic. The piston top does not turn black. I believe Model Technic has the lowest lubrication content.
The Tornado oil is apparently very powerful. Fuels like Byron are more "sluggish" as they contain higher lubrication content. When using Tornado, you apprently have to religously put after run oil in your engine after a day's run before preparing for the coming week. If not, the engine will get stuck from rust after a week.
The major brands that are currently being used here in KL are Byron, Model Technic and Tornado. It must tell something then when these fuels are widely used when other fuel brands are available.
How much percentage lubrication does Gammalube have? I heard that the Byron is quite similar to Gammalube. I could be wrong.
The highest lubrication content I know is Byron at 12% so much so that the top of the engine piston goes black from the excess burnt castor oil. The same also goes for Powertrack.
The cleanest burn is apparently Tornado and Model Technic. The piston top does not turn black. I believe Model Technic has the lowest lubrication content.
The Tornado oil is apparently very powerful. Fuels like Byron are more "sluggish" as they contain higher lubrication content. When using Tornado, you apprently have to religously put after run oil in your engine after a day's run before preparing for the coming week. If not, the engine will get stuck from rust after a week.
12-21-2002, 04:10 PM
#3
Tech Regular
wat about fuel like coolrunning ? its cheap and locally errr blended..
12-21-2002, 04:44 PM
#4
not tat i know abt GP,but jus thought tat u guyz might b interested in this piece of info...
it has been proven tat the nitro gives better performance when it is cooled down...especially in this type of temperature in M'sia,i think tis is worth noting down...
it has been proven tat the nitro gives better performance when it is cooled down...especially in this type of temperature in M'sia,i think tis is worth noting down...
12-23-2002, 04:33 AM
#5
so which fuel...
Originally posted by InitialD
Byron, Sidewinder, Tornado, Blue Thunder, Model Technic and Gammalube fuels can ge gotten here in KL. I think Daisheng sells Powertrack? So far I have not seen O'Donnels or Blue Thunder over here.
The major brands that are currently being used here in KL are Byron, Model Technic and Tornado. It must tell something then when these fuels are widely used when other fuel brands are available.
How much percentage lubrication does Gammalube have? I heard that the Byron is quite similar to Gammalube. I could be wrong.
The highest lubrication content I know is Byron at 12% so much so that the top of the engine piston goes black from the excess burnt castor oil. The same also goes for Powertrack.
The cleanest burn is apparently Tornado and Model Technic. The piston top does not turn black. I believe Model Technic has the lowest lubrication content.
The Tornado oil is apparently very powerful. Fuels like Byron are more "sluggish" as they contain higher lubrication content. When using Tornado, you apprently have to religously put after run oil in your engine after a day's run before preparing for the coming week. If not, the engine will get stuck from rust after a week.
Byron, Sidewinder, Tornado, Blue Thunder, Model Technic and Gammalube fuels can ge gotten here in KL. I think Daisheng sells Powertrack? So far I have not seen O'Donnels or Blue Thunder over here.
The major brands that are currently being used here in KL are Byron, Model Technic and Tornado. It must tell something then when these fuels are widely used when other fuel brands are available.
How much percentage lubrication does Gammalube have? I heard that the Byron is quite similar to Gammalube. I could be wrong.
The highest lubrication content I know is Byron at 12% so much so that the top of the engine piston goes black from the excess burnt castor oil. The same also goes for Powertrack.
The cleanest burn is apparently Tornado and Model Technic. The piston top does not turn black. I believe Model Technic has the lowest lubrication content.
The Tornado oil is apparently very powerful. Fuels like Byron are more "sluggish" as they contain higher lubrication content. When using Tornado, you apprently have to religously put after run oil in your engine after a day's run before preparing for the coming week. If not, the engine will get stuck from rust after a week.
so which fuel are u running rite now?
i read that some racers advise to use the same brand and nitro %of fuel to break-in the engine and for future races without changing to other brands. what's your thought on this?
i had previously used tornado 16% on my X12, i guess it was b'cos i was too innocent (newbie) at that time, and i didnt bother to put afterrun in it. A week or so later, when i opened the backplate, i saw some brownish patches right at the crankshaft pin area (half moon). i took it to LHS and was told it wasnt rust...etc..etc, he had it cleaned and everything was back to just as new..! when i use the tornodo fuel again, i had it checked and the patches came back...i didnt know why...but i had afterrun in my engine right after every run....i put like 10 drops through the carb and 10 drops through the plug hole.
Now that i use Gammalube 25%, added another head shim of 0.3mm...the engine runs very powerful...but the brownish patches still there. i polished off those brownish patches on the crank again...but i am sure it will come back in no time...
Do you think that these brownish patches (could be rust) were caused in the very beginning when i run my engine with tornado without putting afterrun?
do you have those brownish patches on your crankshaft (half moon area)?
i once took out the entire crankshaft, but good thing that the brownish thingy didnt 'grow' on other area...
thanks for sharing if you have time.......
12-23-2002, 05:01 PM
#6
Advanti,
I suspect that the brownish patch could be the burnt castor oil.
Actually, there is a good reason why it is wise to stick to a particular fuel brand for a particular engine that you are using. It makes sense because when you change fuel for that particular engine, the carb settings will most likely be off. Re-tuning the carb is then needed.
Also, I think that it is good to stick to the same fuel as if you have any engine tuning problems occur later on, you can exclude other variables like the fuel.
I suspect that the brownish patch could be the burnt castor oil.
Actually, there is a good reason why it is wise to stick to a particular fuel brand for a particular engine that you are using. It makes sense because when you change fuel for that particular engine, the carb settings will most likely be off. Re-tuning the carb is then needed.
Also, I think that it is good to stick to the same fuel as if you have any engine tuning problems occur later on, you can exclude other variables like the fuel.
12-25-2002, 11:00 PM
#7
Byron ! Byron ! Byron ! Byron !
Byron ! Byron ! Byron ! Byron !
I personally felt that Byron is very good....really...i mean in terms of lubrication...as stated by InitialD...is indeed high lub..but this fuel rite...ermm..what should i say.....is good lah....obviously i can't say " if you use this fue your car flies " rite ? but this fuel satisfies me...but one thing i must mention....the smell of Byron is really
"CRYING STINK " !!!! when i clean my exhaust pipe... sometimes it really stinks me out of my work station.....
and the smoke is really really spicy....it flushes my eyes and nose easily cause is really spicy....( my eyes and nose like tap water when i inhale the Byron smoke ) .....
Tonardo is very good but the price is very high..Gamma i personally never try b4...i believe is a good one too despite many pple using it.....
what about blue thunder ? well i use this fuel when i was a RC rookie...i should say it's good fuel... quiet clean also.
by the way...a good fuel promises a healthy engine, but the vital factor still reply on your tuning...if you use a 100 % lub and your engine lean like anything...then oso back to square rite ?
Long Live RC !~!
I personally felt that Byron is very good....really...i mean in terms of lubrication...as stated by InitialD...is indeed high lub..but this fuel rite...ermm..what should i say.....is good lah....obviously i can't say " if you use this fue your car flies " rite ? but this fuel satisfies me...but one thing i must mention....the smell of Byron is really
"CRYING STINK " !!!! when i clean my exhaust pipe... sometimes it really stinks me out of my work station.....and the smoke is really really spicy....it flushes my eyes and nose easily cause is really spicy....( my eyes and nose like tap water when i inhale the Byron smoke ) .....
Tonardo is very good but the price is very high..Gamma i personally never try b4...i believe is a good one too despite many pple using it.....
what about blue thunder ? well i use this fuel when i was a RC rookie...i should say it's good fuel... quiet clean also.
by the way...a good fuel promises a healthy engine, but the vital factor still reply on your tuning...if you use a 100 % lub and your engine lean like anything...then oso back to square rite ?
Long Live RC !~!
12-26-2002, 01:42 AM
#8
Just borrowed my friend's NTC3, I am still figuring out how to start the darn car with the starter box... the Model technic fuel is not as smelly as some other fuel. Also since it is the lowest in lub, can I add synthetic car engine oil into it to increase the lub? I have yet to get it started...
Also I dont seem to be able to find a prime button on the tank! do I just put it on the starter with the glow starter on?
Also I dont seem to be able to find a prime button on the tank! do I just put it on the starter with the glow starter on?
12-26-2002, 04:13 AM
#9
Originally posted by spawn
Just borrowed my friend's NTC3, I am still figuring out how to start the darn car with the starter box... the Model technic fuel is not as smelly as some other fuel. Also since it is the lowest in lub, can I add synthetic car engine oil into it to increase the lub? I have yet to get it started...
Also I dont seem to be able to find a prime button on the tank! do I just put it on the starter with the glow starter on?
Just borrowed my friend's NTC3, I am still figuring out how to start the darn car with the starter box... the Model technic fuel is not as smelly as some other fuel. Also since it is the lowest in lub, can I add synthetic car engine oil into it to increase the lub? I have yet to get it started...
Also I dont seem to be able to find a prime button on the tank! do I just put it on the starter with the glow starter on?
Is the NTC3 yours or is it a friends?
The NTC3 is no Tamiya car
So you don't find any primming button on the tank. If you need to prime it, block the exhaust pipe stinger when you start the engine with the starter box. Not too much. If not, you'll flood the engine.What engine is on the NTC3? What starter box are you using? Put the glow plug starter on the glow plug and press it so that the starter box will turn the engine flywheel. When it does this, you simultaneously open the throttle.
I don't know about adding lube from the car engine oil. I've read that it could be detrimental to the car engine as the lube from the car engine oil gums up. Best is to add castor oil to the fuel.
12-26-2002, 06:35 AM
#10
I read about this on another forum's NTC3 thread (since I'm seriously considering getting one!). Apparently, its an easy enough mistake to incorrectly use a starter box (esp. one which wasn't designed for it specifically) to try to start the NTC3 mounted engine BACKWARDS! That's right, the NTC3 has a peculiar aft-facing engine mounting design which doesn't mate with most standard starter boxes. An easy fix would be just to reverse the polarity on the motor leads. However, the best would be to get a starter box specifically designed for the NTC3. Actually, you can start the engine backwards, but its really uncommon.
12-26-2002, 06:40 AM
#11
On another note. Is there any solid reason why we should or should not switch fuel?
Retuning the engine is given, but will there be any other effects? I'm thinking maybe a change of plugs (colder/hotter?), variations in operating temp. Can you expect any noticeable diff.? Performance? Reliability (i.e; no pre-detonation etc.)?
Retuning the engine is given, but will there be any other effects? I'm thinking maybe a change of plugs (colder/hotter?), variations in operating temp. Can you expect any noticeable diff.? Performance? Reliability (i.e; no pre-detonation etc.)?
12-26-2002, 06:09 PM
#12
Originally posted by InitialD
spawn,
Is the NTC3 yours or is it a friends?
The NTC3 is no Tamiya car So you don't find any primming button on the tank. If you need to prime it, block the exhaust pipe stinger when you start the engine with the starter box. Not too much. If not, you'll flood the engine.
What engine is on the NTC3? What starter box are you using? Put the glow plug starter on the glow plug and press it so that the starter box will turn the engine flywheel. When it does this, you simultaneously open the throttle.
I don't know about adding lube from the car engine oil. I've read that it could be detrimental to the car engine as the lube from the car engine oil gums up. Best is to add castor oil to the fuel.
spawn,
Is the NTC3 yours or is it a friends?
The NTC3 is no Tamiya car
So you don't find any primming button on the tank. If you need to prime it, block the exhaust pipe stinger when you start the engine with the starter box. Not too much. If not, you'll flood the engine.What engine is on the NTC3? What starter box are you using? Put the glow plug starter on the glow plug and press it so that the starter box will turn the engine flywheel. When it does this, you simultaneously open the throttle.
I don't know about adding lube from the car engine oil. I've read that it could be detrimental to the car engine as the lube from the car engine oil gums up. Best is to add castor oil to the fuel.
I probably need to check the plugs too... Hopefully I can get it working and have a spin at Atria this weekend...
Thanks Zerotorc for that explanation on how to get that stubborn engine started!!
Last edited by spawn; 12-26-2002 at 06:38 PM.
12-27-2002, 02:10 AM
#13
Another interesting factor to consider, how about the lube flash point? I read somewhere that Blue Thunder has a flash point of 210f. That means its really combustible and the guy that wrote this said anyone running an engine with a higher temp. wouldn't be getting proper lubrication. My engine does 260-280f easy.
hmm???
hmm???
12-27-2002, 02:15 AM
#14
If the NTC3 is powered by a Novarossi S5, then I can attest to its tuning peculiarities. The key is in the break-in process. If done right, the S5 will purrrr....I had mine done by the LHS and its easy to tune. InitialD should remember my first experience with the S5 (I still have his engine tuning guide!).
Originally posted by spawn
It belongs to my friend, he has lost interest in R/C. Engine, I think it is a Novarossi T5 or something like that, heck I tried starting it last night but only managed 2-3 second or running beforeit died. The engine only gone through 1/4 of a gallon!!. Super hard to get it working as compared to the kyosho spider with GS11 I had long ago. Just plug the glow starter and pull the cord... bwahhhhhh.... no problem, only that it was slow even with 2 speed.. The speed was just faster than a 23t stock motor but the engine was super reliable, most of the time, I pull then bwahhhhh....!!!...
I probably need to check the plugs too... Hopefully I can get it working and have a spin at Atria this weekend...
Thanks Zerotorc for that explanation on how to get that stubborn engine started!!
It belongs to my friend, he has lost interest in R/C. Engine, I think it is a Novarossi T5 or something like that, heck I tried starting it last night but only managed 2-3 second or running beforeit died. The engine only gone through 1/4 of a gallon!!. Super hard to get it working as compared to the kyosho spider with GS11 I had long ago. Just plug the glow starter and pull the cord... bwahhhhhh.... no problem, only that it was slow even with 2 speed.. The speed was just faster than a 23t stock motor but the engine was super reliable, most of the time, I pull then bwahhhhh....!!!...
I probably need to check the plugs too... Hopefully I can get it working and have a spin at Atria this weekend...
Thanks Zerotorc for that explanation on how to get that stubborn engine started!!
12-27-2002, 02:20 AM
#15
Originally posted by Morpheus2be
Another interesting factor to consider, how about the lube flash point? I read somewhere that Blue Thunder has a flash point of 210f. That means its really combustible and the guy that wrote this said anyone running an engine with a higher temp. wouldn't be getting proper lubrication. My engine does 260-280f ~120c easy.
hmm???
Another interesting factor to consider, how about the lube flash point? I read somewhere that Blue Thunder has a flash point of 210f. That means its really combustible and the guy that wrote this said anyone running an engine with a higher temp. wouldn't be getting proper lubrication. My engine does 260-280f ~120c easy.
hmm???
Btw, my S5 has a 0.1mm shim in it and runs slightly rich. Temps. hover around 100-110c now.