KYOSHO STRR/ EVO
#2
KYOSHO STRR/EVO CHASSIS
M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of the KYOSHO STRR/EVO
CHASSIS
This chassis is made with 1/8 thick 7075 aluminum.
We have added replacable skid plates to extend the life of the chassis
and steel droop screw stops which will stop the changing of the droop
settings;
to read more click on the thread below:
http://m2cracing.com/searchquick-sub...?keywords=2670
#3
KYOSHO 3 PC. MOTOR MOUNT FROM M2C RACING
M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of our 3 pc. quick change
motor mount for the KYOSHO truggy and buggy.
We have designed this mount with longer front support to help with chassis
strikes of the clutch bell. When used in combination with our chassis, it
virtually elimanates chassis strikes. We have also added (4) 3mm pointed
set screws to this mount.
After you set your mesh, snug these screws down. Just a little added insurance that your motor will stay in place.
to read more click on link
http://m2cracing.com/searchquick-sub...?keywords=2665
Last edited by m2cracing; 03-07-2014 at 08:45 AM.
#4
KYOSHO STRR EVO FOWARD RADIO TRAY MOUNT
Made using 1/8 billet aluminum and anodized black. This part will allow you to move the battery foward for more front traction.
The servos have been aligned for a strait pull and the steering servo has been relocated to allow clearance of the steering arm.
This part will require the kyosho buggy reciever box (kyosho part no. IF479) and the battery box (IF 478)
the transponder has been modied to connect the 2 parts togather and drilled to mount the new smart on/off switch.
http://m2cracing.com/searchquick-sub...?keywords=2660
#6
KYOSHO STRR/EVO REAR HINGE PIN SUPPORT SYSTEM
These blocks are made with7075 Aircraft aluminum. The captured tapered hinge pins are made with 01 Tool steel for maximium strength.
these pins are designed to rotate in the bushings to allow a freerer motion of the suspension. With this design even if you bend a hinge
pin, it will most likely bend in the smallest area of the pin. this area is not in the bushing or the arm so it will continue to operate and not bind
the suspension. the bushings are made with delrin material and will provide you with a much longer life than stock plastic bushings.
this system is made using the stock settings of the vehicle and you will have up to 2 degrees of toe and antisquat adjustment from stock settings.
The system comes with:
1 front antidive block ( part no. m2c 2511)
1 rear toe block (part no. 2512)
3 tapered 4mm dia. hinge pins ( part no. 2501)
4 diamond inserts (hole in center of block) part no. m2c 4510
4 2 dot inserts (hole 1 degree off center) part no. m2c 4511
4 3 dot inserts ( hole 2 degrees off center) part no. m2c 4512
4 4 dot inserts (hold 1/4 degrees off center) part no. m2c 4513
4 5 dot inserts ( hole 1/2 degrees off center) part no. m2c 4514
4 6 dot inserts ( hole 3/4 degrees off center) part no. m2c 4515
direction of point indicates offsetdirection of hole.
http://m2cracing.com/searchquick-sub...?keywords=2510
#7
KYOSHO STRR/EVO frONT SUSPENSION SYSTEM FROM M2C RACING
KYOSHO STRR EVO TRUGGY FRONT LOWER ANTIDIVER KIT MADE 7075 AIRCRAFT ALUMINUM FOR MAXIMIUM STRENGTH. THIS PART WILL ALLOW YOU TO ACCESS THE FRONT DIFF BY REMOVING 6 SCREWS. THE CAPTURED TAPERED HINGE PINS GIVE YOU THE FREEST MOTION POSSIBLE TO SUSPENSION CHANGES. PINS ARE MADE OF 01 TOOL STEEL AND HARDENED FOR MAXIUM STRENGTH. THE FRONT BLOCK ALLOWS YOU TO GO UP OR DOWN 2 DEGREES IN 1 DEGREE INCREMENTS ALLOWING YOU TO TUNE THE SUSPENSION TO YOU EXACT NEEDS.
KIT INCLUDES:
1 REAR (B) PLATE WITH THE USE OF PART NO. M2C 2501 1 FRONT PLATE SET AT (1 DOT STOCK SETTING;
NOTE: in order to make the front suspension plate a captured system, we had to modify a mugen bumper to fit.
you can make the stock bumper fit, but it will take some dremmeling to do so.
INSERTS:
A BLOCK:
1 DOT PART NO. M2C 3910
2 DOT PART NO. M2C 3920
3 DOT PART NO. M2C 3930
HINGE PINS M2C 2501
B BLOCK INSERTS:
PART NO. M2C 5812
MUGEN MBX6 MODIFIED BuMPER M2C 2523
#8
KYOSHO DELRIN SHOCK BUSHINGS
M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release the KYOSHO SHOCK BUSHING
THESE bushing are made of DELRIN plastic. and will resist wear much longer than the stock injucted plastic. We have made to od a light press to keep down wear of the shock cap and a nice snug on the id for the pivot stud.
TO PURCHASE THIS ITEM, CLICK ON THE FOLLOWING LINK
http://m2cracing.com/searchquick-sub...words=m2c+2715
#9
These blocks are made with7075 Aircraft aluminum. The captured tapered hinge pins are made with 01 Tool steel for maximium strength.
these pins are designed to rotate in the bushings to allow a freerer motion of the suspension. With this design even if you bend a hinge
pin, it will most likely bend in the smallest area of the pin. this area is not in the bushing or the arm so it will continue to operate and not bind
the suspension. the bushings are made with delrin material and will provide you with a much longer life than stock plastic bushings.
this system is made using the stock settings of the vehicle and you will have up to 2 degrees of toe and antisquat adjustment from stock settings.
The system comes with:
1 front antidive block ( part no. m2c 2511)
1 rear toe block (part no. 2512)
3 tapered 4mm dia. hinge pins ( part no. 2501)
4 diamond inserts (hole in center of block) part no. m2c 4510
4 2 dot inserts (hole 1 degree off center) part no. m2c 4511
4 3 dot inserts ( hole 2 degrees off center) part no. m2c 4512
4 4 dot inserts (hold 1/4 degrees off center) part no. m2c 4513
4 5 dot inserts ( hole 1/2 degrees off center) part no. m2c 4514
4 6 dot inserts ( hole 3/4 degrees off center) part no. m2c 4515
direction of point indicates offsetdirection of hole.
http://m2cracing.com/searchquick-sub...?keywords=2510
#10
STRR SUSPENSION SUPPORT BLOCKS
As best as I remember, the stock setting for the STRR EVO is 3 degrees toe.
In my system that would be the DIAMOND insert.
Keep in mind that this is a base setting, and it could react differently since our
system is much freerer than the stock system.
Since we have inserts that allow you to adjust the toe and antisquat in 1/4 degree increments, you can dial in the feel you are looking for.
Also, Our front antidive kit (m2c 2520) is reported to have a big effect on the
rear end. Our test drivers are reporting the using the 2 and 3 dot front inserts
(inserts rotated down) are having a big difference in turn in and locking up the rear end.
Hope this answers your question.
mitch
In my system that would be the DIAMOND insert.
Keep in mind that this is a base setting, and it could react differently since our
system is much freerer than the stock system.
Since we have inserts that allow you to adjust the toe and antisquat in 1/4 degree increments, you can dial in the feel you are looking for.
Also, Our front antidive kit (m2c 2520) is reported to have a big effect on the
rear end. Our test drivers are reporting the using the 2 and 3 dot front inserts
(inserts rotated down) are having a big difference in turn in and locking up the rear end.
Hope this answers your question.
mitch
#11
As best as I remember, the stock setting for the STRR EVO is 3 degrees toe.
In my system that would be the DIAMOND insert.
Keep in mind that this is a base setting, and it could react differently since our
system is much freerer than the stock system.
Since we have inserts that allow you to adjust the toe and antisquat in 1/4 degree increments, you can dial in the feel you are looking for.
Also, Our front antidive kit (m2c 2520) is reported to have a big effect on the
rear end. Our test drivers are reporting the using the 2 and 3 dot front inserts
(inserts rotated down) are having a big difference in turn in and locking up the rear end.
Hope this answers your question.
mitch
In my system that would be the DIAMOND insert.
Keep in mind that this is a base setting, and it could react differently since our
system is much freerer than the stock system.
Since we have inserts that allow you to adjust the toe and antisquat in 1/4 degree increments, you can dial in the feel you are looking for.
Also, Our front antidive kit (m2c 2520) is reported to have a big effect on the
rear end. Our test drivers are reporting the using the 2 and 3 dot front inserts
(inserts rotated down) are having a big difference in turn in and locking up the rear end.
Hope this answers your question.
mitch
#13
i bought some m2c2752 replacement clutch shoes for my kyosho cars. usually the stock shoes last two race meetings. i check my clutch after every meet and file the feathered edges.
did a race meet with the m2c shoes/springs on my evo with speed specII and checked them. no feathering at all. i am envisioning these shoes lasting a long time. impressed.
all i did was change the bearings this time. didn't even remove the shoes for cleaning.
did a race meet with the m2c shoes/springs on my evo with speed specII and checked them. no feathering at all. i am envisioning these shoes lasting a long time. impressed.
all i did was change the bearings this time. didn't even remove the shoes for cleaning.
#14
Wait till you see what is coming next.
A friend of mine brought a real pain in the #$%$ problem for me to work on.
Servicing the center diff.
I tried it on my test car and he is right.
You almost have to take the car apart to service the center diff, and have
5 hands to hold things in place.
So, I have been working on a split center diff for the truggy.
All you will have to do is remove the servo horn and (4) 3MM screws.
and take out the center diff from the top.
It is in the final stages of development now.
I have solved the 2 main problems with the aluminum diff mounts which is
getting the brake caliper screws to stay in place and the real problem
keeping the bearings from spinning.
So keep an eye out later this week for pics.
I will be releasing them as soon as I have the feed back from my test drivers
Lee Muse , tray Brock and telly young.
A friend of mine brought a real pain in the #$%$ problem for me to work on.
Servicing the center diff.
I tried it on my test car and he is right.
You almost have to take the car apart to service the center diff, and have
5 hands to hold things in place.
So, I have been working on a split center diff for the truggy.
All you will have to do is remove the servo horn and (4) 3MM screws.
and take out the center diff from the top.
It is in the final stages of development now.
I have solved the 2 main problems with the aluminum diff mounts which is
getting the brake caliper screws to stay in place and the real problem
keeping the bearings from spinning.
So keep an eye out later this week for pics.
I will be releasing them as soon as I have the feed back from my test drivers
Lee Muse , tray Brock and telly young.