Originally posted by Phatkat There really isn't a whole lot of tips for rebuilding a carb, except clean clean clean. Do it in a clean place, on a clean white towel, and clean it with denatured alcohol, or something similar. Be sure it slides/rotates very smoothly and freely, if not, find out why and buff the sticky spot with 1500-2000 grit paper(I recommend 3M automotive). That should do it, and be sure to note where everything goes, and in what direction. There's only like 10-12 parts total in one of those carbs, so it really isn't too bad.
Good luck,
Matt.
Thanks.
Mine seems to be smooth one pass, then sticks in a particular spot the next. So I think my rebuild will definitely call for some of the 1500-2000 grit paper.
I never said that any rules be changed or that anyone should be given a "pass" I merely suggested that you consider relocating your wire to a different place to lessen the chance of it becoming damaged from whatever reason. That is all. I thought it would be easier to make a track modification (in the interest of durability) before the Enduro rather than risk a problem during it.
I did not intend to offend You or Charlie and am truly sorry if I did. I think you guys run a great event and was only trying to make a suggestion that would avoid problems in the future...Not create more
I wasn't there, so I don't know the layout... but I'm seeing lots of tempers in here... so lets all settle down and take a breather.
Now, don't everyone jump on me, but what is wrong with setting the track out like you guys you to do, when you NEEDED to pull power from the power pole? Seems that we could use that power pole as a "natural" protection for the box, AND it would give us the "small straight" for all cars to not be loaded up by the loop.
See my image for what I mean. It would limit what type of layouts you can have, but what does everyone think about that? It will protect the box, the loop should be on somewhat of a straight.
As far as it getting cut thats another issue, but this is just a suggestion as to layour and placement of the loop.
1. Overall maximum diameter is 36.02mm measured at whatever point yields the maximum dimension, excluding solder tabs or lead wires. Maximum length is 53mm measured from the mounting face of the motor to the furthest most point of the end bell, not including solder tabs, lead wires or original manufacturer’s logo or name. Shaft diameter must be 0.125”. Motor mounting holes must be on 1.00- inch centers. Only two pole bonded neodymium or ferrite magnetic rotors are permitted. The stator laminations must be one after another all of the same magnetizable material without anything in between. No split stators allowed. Maximum stator length must be 0.80” +/- 0.01”. Inside diameter of the stator must be 0.5850” +/ 0.0005”. Only three slot “Y” (star) wound stators are permitted. No delta wound stators allowed. Only circular (round) pure copper wire allowed for the stator. . Magnet specifications. Length 1.00” +/- 0.005”. Diameter= 0.5510” +/-0.0040”. Weight of rotor including shaft, hub and magnet =1.00 oz. +/- 0.05oz.
All motors must have the original manufacturer’s logo or name molded into the end bell. Sensored or sensorless motors are allowed. For compatibility purposes, if the motor is sensored it must use a six position JST ZH connector model number ZHR-6 or equivalent connector with 6 JST part number SZH-002T-P0.5 26-28 awg contacts or equivalent. Wire sequence must be as follows. Pin#1- Black wire ground potential, pin #2- orange wire phase C, pin #3- white wire phase B, pin #4- green wire phase A, pin #5- blue wire temp control, 10 k Thermistor referenced to ground potential, pin #6- red wire + 5.0 volts d.c. +/- 10%. Compatible speed control must use the 6 position JST header part number X-6B-ZR-SMX-TF (where the X denotes the style of the header), or equivalent. Motors must be rebuildable
MODIFIED BRUSHLESS MOTORS
2. All modified Brushless Motors must conform to technical specifications in Rule 1 above. For all ROAR sanctioned events, modified Touring Cars will use a stator wind of no less than 7 1/2 continuous turns per slot which is equivalent to the new split magnet 10 turn delta wound brushed motor. An inductance reading is very easily obtained from a Brushless Motor without unsoldering or taking the motor out of the car.
STOCK BRUSHLESS MOTORS
3. Approved stock Brushless Motors must conform to the technical specifications in Rule 1 above except will use a stator wind of no less than 10 1/2 continuous turns per slot which is equivalent to a existing ROAR legal 27 turn stock motor. A minimum inductance reading can be used to tech the stock motors. Ball bearings are allowed.
4. Approved Brushless Motors must be commercially available through hobby distributors and hobby dealers nationwide with a minimum of 2000 stock or modified motors being produced and are available for sale nationwide for a maximum retail price of $129. All other applicable specifications would be the same as brushed motors.
KansasCajun: believe it or not, the loop box didn't get hit at all yesterday. That was a first and I really want to thank the MT guys for their restraint when coming around in front of the scorers tent. Thank you!
What happened to you yesterday. Thought you were looking to run your sedan?
What happened to you yesterday. Thought you were looking to run your sedan?
I was.. still am actually. I was out Saturday pitting John Taylor in his 1/8 scale qualifiers at the outdoor track. I dunno if it was something I ate or what, but lets just say I had some health reasons for not being there.
Erock: I just answered your body question on the Endurance thread, but I'll stick the answer here too.
Nitro Endurance will be open to any body type. We choose this route because over that long of a race, cooling will be essential. So we want the racers to be able to run the very high cooling Lola if they choose to.
if anybody needs a new mt12 let me know, i am going to order a mtx3 kit only but if somebody want to pay an extra 135 i can get the mtx3 with motor and they can have the motor. let me know
__________________
Team Associated, Mugen, Novarossi Power, Airtronics, Core Creations. L Towns Finest
Hey Greg, Something I told Shane about concerning the loop when we were building their layout was to score the surface 1/4 inch deep to absorb the loop below the surface. Maybe score it 2 or 3 different places to allow any layout. Sounds harder than it really was.......and on the carb rebuild if you have a composite carb body, and there is no burrs on the slide, toss the old body and start from scratch. I'm finding out composite bodys sometimes are worn out and dont slide smoothly. Seems to be from pulling too far on the arm especially if it has a slight angle to the linkage. I first noticed this type of failure on rtr cars with radios that dont have end point adjustment. I'm sure your attention to detail would have caught the E.P.A. problem, just something to consider.
......and yes.....I'll be racing again. The business end of this hobby has been taking alot of my free time.
I wasn't there, so I don't know the layout... but I'm seeing lots of tempers in here... so lets all settle down and take a breather.
Now, don't everyone jump on me, but what is wrong with setting the track out like you guys you to do, when you NEEDED to pull power from the power pole? Seems that we could use that power pole as a "natural" protection for the box, AND it would give us the "small straight" for all cars to not be loaded up by the loop.
See my image for what I mean. It would limit what type of layouts you can have, but what does everyone think about that? It will protect the box, the loop should be on somewhat of a straight.
As far as it getting cut thats another issue, but this is just a suggestion as to layour and placement of the loop.
That's a good idea. There doesn't seem to be any particular reason for the scoring tent to be on the east side of the track. Putting it on the north side would work. All cords associated with the tent would not be of issue, and the box would still be hidden, and the loop would be in a safe place.
Re: Re: carb rebuild...
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