kikcaffine

iTrader: (32)

Now that we have 2 great tracks, an indoor carpet and out door asphalt track, how about getting some F1 running? I propose using these rules here:



http://uf1series.com/rules.html

CLASSES

REALISTIC
Motor : 21.5 or silver can
ESC : non boost, stock setting... ROAR list
Tires : Rubber only, F1 scale
Body : F1 scale front & rear wing
Width : 180mm maximum
Battery : 2 cell lipo only
Drive : 2 wheel Rear only

OPEN
Motor : ANY
ESC : ANY
Tires : ANY F1 scale tire ( No sedan tires, no pan car tires )
Body : F1 scale front & rear wing
Width : 200mm maximum
Battery : ANY
Drive : 2 wheel Rear only

RULES

Both these classes will run separately...
Both will be scored separately , but compete together in the points series...
There can ONLY be ONE UF1 Champion...
You will be able to run both classes , but before you qualify you will have to choose which class you want to be scored in...
You can race in the Realistic class one day, and Open class another day and still collect points towards the Championship...

2 minute Qualifier :

Two minute fast lap qualifier...
This will determine whether you run in the "A" or "B" main for the rest of the day...

Scoring System :

1st= 25 : 2nd = 18 : 3rd = 15 : 4th = 12 : 5th = 10 : 6th = 8 : 7th= 6 : 8th= 4 : 9th = 2 : 10th= 1
NO dropped races... All races will count...
It is possible for a top driver to miss two races and still win the series... Just like in real F1...
In case of a tie, the driver with the most wins will win....

Times from the "A" main and the "B" main will be calculated together as if they all ran together... You can score top points from the "B" main if you have the best time... The advantage to making the "A" main is that you will be racing with faster, cleaner racers...

Three 10 minute Races :

DNF and DNS receive no points...
You must complete 8 laps as to not be a DNF
12 foot Starting Grid

ADDITIONAL INfO

Realistic Class :

I am seeing many 104's evolving back into 103's... This is even being done by Tamiya themselves with the introduction of the 104W... And Tamiya is even reintroducing the 103... I've seen many 104 with 103 tires...200mm widths... and even shortening the wheelbase slightly to match the 103...

This is totally getting away from the scale looks of the car and is making for an uneven playing field... If this continues, the 104 with it's cool scale looks will become extinct... Simply limiting the width of the Realistic class to 180mm will eliminate 103's and 104's with wider tires...

And since this is a realistic class... pit stops will continue...You can not pit on the first or last lap... You must pit twice during the race... If you did not pit twice, you will receive zero points... unless your car breaks after the 8th lap and you are unable to make the pit stops... in this case you will receive the points as if you finished last... for example... Your car breaks an arm in lap 13 and you have only pitted once... you will receive last place points even though you did not pit twice...

No driving through racers because you THINK you are ahead of them.
With 2 stops in the race there is no way of knowing who is where.
No driver should have to move out of the way... clean passing all the time...
The whole point of pit stops is to pit when you have a car or cars ahead of you that are slowing you down...
If you choose to pit in the first 2 minutes of the race to get it out of the way... then you have 8 minutes to deal with passing traffic...
If a car is obviously lapping you, then move over... if your not sure, then hold your line and let them make the pass...

Open Class :

Then there is the 2nd camp that feeds on pure performance...
And given the nature of real F1, this is kinda of what it's all about... So I can truly appreciate it...
Restricting the width to 200mm allows 103 type chassis cars with foams ( or rubber ) to run but excludes someone from converting a 235mm pan car into a F1 car...

In this class it's all about how much power you can handle.. ESC settings are open as well, but I can't imagine someone adding boost to a 13.5 motor on a 2WD chassis
Most of the tracks in this series I would say are medium traction... There is a limit to how much power you can lay on the track...
Pit stops are not necessary...

kikcaffine

iTrader: (32)

I myself have ordered an F1-09 that I plan to convert to 180mm to run in the realistic class. I know theres quite a few running around....

Flying Monkey

iTrader: (54)

I wouldnt do min number of laps. Track sizes can really dictate that. I dont follow nascar or f1 in real life but even DNF's get some points dont they? a DNS maybe not but a DNF with no points could cost you to not have someone come back just cause they had a bad day at the track and broke something. They cant come back from a 0 point race if others arent having same issue they had in the series. Why would they waste the money to continue the series if they cant make it back up? Just my 2 cents.

kikcaffine

iTrader: (32)

Its a problem they have to deal with in real life also. One first place finish will take you from last though.....

mxrich

iTrader: (1)

Monkey put his 2 cent's in (he says that all the time but we know he has more $$$ than Oprah) so maybe it's my turn. You are so close to doing it right that you need to be careful of over doing it. Anyone that knows me also knows I have been doing this a long long time even before the road wizard F1 I have seen many classes come and go so I will offer you some advice. Keep it simple. The more simple the more better. The $17 540 is the best investment in RC racing. Just ask any Mini driver.If you want a do all class make it the Tamiya style cars and it's clones, there are a bunch out there to chose from. Want a faster class? Usually it will be foam with 17.5 or 27T With bearings.Tires, rubber or foam? Don't think you will bebop to the LHS and pickup a set, not going to happen unless your shop want's to invest in them for everyone. Go for places like www.D-drivesportsenglish.com and get sets for your buds and bring the cost down to lunch money prices They are foam only and bodies out the ying yang including the very hot but not cheap chevron bodies.. For rubber try www.rcmart.com for every wheel and tire for every F1 car on the planet at way less than Tamiya will ever let them go for. I will stop for now then go to page two later. By the way, there are 3 tracks that are F1 ready. One Lug In Albertville is a very cool place and the owners are very nice people.

mxrich

iTrader: (1)

I am seeing many 104's evolving back into 103's... This is even being done by Tamiya themselves with the introduction of the 104W... And Tamiya is even reintroducing the 103... I've seen many 104 with 103 tires...200mm widths... and even shortening the wheelbase slightly to match the 103...

This is totally getting away from the scale looks of the car and is making for an uneven playing field... If this continues, the 104 with it's cool scale looks will become extinct... Simply limiting the width of the Realistic class to 180mm will eliminate 103's and 104's with wider tires...

Welcome to F1 racing! Not everything you say is sarcastic. You found it pretty quick. Goodby F201.Not all cars are the same even though "all" are clones of the F102 and F103. The F109, Tech 125, and the TRG (try to find one) are the kings of the hill right now. There are about 18 builders of F1's in Japan and most of them do not export the cars. And there are some wild design's out there that would not be welcome here but they still fit the pattern. Please do not count out the pancar F1's. There are several around here and they are for the total speed freaks. Not as many as Tamiya F1 but they are hardcore racers and want to go FAST! I have 5 or 6 of them myself.These are the10L's Bolinks corallys, Hyperdrive,CRC, Alpha, Lynx and others. Your points sytem is right on. Similar to MX points which does not punish a mistake or two, keep it. That is how we did it. and it works.

mxrich

iTrader: (1)

Man I'm getting tired. If you want racing with pitstops don't do it right away. Take some time to build it in your head first and don't expect a big crowd without planning to keep it simple as well.You don't have to but try to think it more of a series within a series at the 3 tracks with set teams maybe and introduce the pitstop in that or, do a builders cup style even like we did. It was an easy format and everybody had a good time with it. I am not an expert. Always remember that. I do this because I like it and we and the other racers will help as well. As for regular racers. Let them race as normal and we can build from there. There are no bad ideas. Anything can be adjusted with a little planning. But do it for fun or someone may think you are getting serious and nobody likes that.

aarcobra

iTrader: (12)

MX,
Ned here from SC! I'm a fool to be doing this but I'm keeping a eye on the progress of this series 'cause I like "realistic" type classes. VTA and F1 for example. Had a great time in my short F1 career a few years back ;-) But I should know better than to get burned again!

Good racing, hope to see you at a track somewhere, sometime!

Ned

kikcaffine

iTrader: (32)

MX rich, would you like to help me? You seem very knowledgeable with the f1's. I want to do them because I like the way the real ones look and it seems like it would be fun to drive a tiny one.

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

I want to race F1, I am not interested in all this pitstop business. Not interested in narrowing the car either.

bmr

iTrader: (27)

George posted simple F1 rules in the previous Layfette track thread.

Tamiya Style F1 silver can or 21.5
Pan car F1 27t or 17.5

I suggested no boost for the Tamiya class as well.
My pan car F1 is stupid fast either way.

I like the pit stop and points idea, but frankly, I just want to race and have fun.

I built an F104 knowing I will be at a disadvantage but I like the look better. I have no interest in racing this car on rubber tires.... it is designed with foams for both looks and performance.

mxrich

iTrader: (1)

What disadvantage? The 104 is a great car and like other Tamiya F1's you will still be racing it 10-15 years from now. By the way, to finish the steps how long of a 2x12 do I need to pickup?

mxrich

iTrader: (1)

From BMR "My pan car F1 is stupid fast either way."

That part is very true for the pancar F1's. Dexter brought his to make some practice laps and that thing went down the straight like a carrier jet. When he was done he said "That was my 4 cell car and it is still fast after sitting on the shelf for two years". They are smoother to drive and the wide tires seem to have an edge on any track which is why they have their own class. It just adds to the fun. Check the onroad thread for building an F1 class HELP! Then see how making it more complicated it got because of 3 guys that wanted to spend more $$$ and go much faster and almost ended the whole thing for everyone else. It happens and it's preventable which is why some clubs like to do a concours once in a while for as an outlet in an effort to keep on pace for what they are doing...F1. All classes can do stuff like that just because it is fun to do.

6376vette

I'm new to thus forum, but I ran f1 back in the day when the f103 was a new chassis. I am dying to run open wheel again, but why the complicated rules? Guys we are the "small" class. There aren't many of us and if you overcomplicate things new guys wont join us. F1 died in ga once, don't kill it before it starts. Why not run simple rules. Pick a brushless motor and a brushed equivalent, ( personally 17.5 brushless no boost would be great), spec a tire preferably foam, but you will need rubber on concrete (ever put your f1 on an oval? Its too much fun. A mini Indy) minimize chassis mods. 6 to 8 min qualifiers and 10 mains. We are trying to have fun with some open wheel cars, not win the nationals. I am in the market for a new chassis and if I have to deal with this type of ruleset with pitstops and a microscopic exam of the chassis dimensions, I wont be running f1.

mxrich

iTrader: (1)

Yes I have run concrete oval with F1 and one dirt oval with a 103 (the track was very smooth) and had a ball. We only offer two F1 classes which is Tamiya style and pancar F1, always have. The current rules are that a 21.5 or a silvercan motor is all that can be used in that class. There are several pancar F1's in this area and they run in their own class.These can run 27T and or 17.5.No boost in each class. As for complicated we tell people to run F1 because it is cheap racing. We tell people that a 103 runs great even with a $22 duratrax esc and it does. And a 2400mah battery will run the time with more to spare. Lipo7.4 is also legal. We do not check weight, we do not have pit stops and the best deal out there is the $95 3racing F109 www.rcmart.com which uses Tamiya parts. At the moment we are doing 5 minute heats and mains in the Tamiya F1 since we do have some newbies coming to that class and we want them to grow at the pace of the legal motors. We prefer simple. pm coming to you