Ok, I am not a big fan of these "help me choose a $500 car only I will drive" threads but I can now see the point of them since I need help.

I am looking to get back into the 1/8-E racing scene and need some opinions. I have owned an RC8e and an Ofna LX-E buggy in the past. Didn't like the Ofna and while the RC8 was fun, seemed heavy and not as race worthy as others I have seen.

Price isn't a huge factor but looking to stay within reason. I am open to the "main" brands other than Losi. I would love an 8ight 2.0 but I'm a dealer for every brand BUT Losi and want to get something I can get parts for directly.

I am leaning towards the Ve8 but have also looked into the FT RC8, HotBodies D8, Mugen MBX 5/6.

The Ve8 worries me for battery tray size, the RC8 for issues mentioned in the beginning, D8 because nobody seems to run them, and the Mugen because they don't seem to have much for aftermarket support.
If I was going to choose one based on pure desire it would be the Ve8 but small motor area and battery tray makes it unlikely. D8 looks interesting but I know nothing about them. I am also interested by the $150 price tag of the new Ofna LX-E but I want to make sure the buggy I buy will be one I am very happy with for a long time.

My main concern is parts availability, popularity (so I can ask other racers setup help), being able to hold ANY 4S lipo I choose and run ANY motor I choose.
I will be getting the Tekin RX8 with a currently undecided motor. More than likely running HobbyCity 4S packs.

Any help, info, tips, advice is welcome and encouraged.

Thanks.


Oh, and if you have one for sale/trade let me know. I have LOTS for sale. Thousands worth of new and used items, nitro and electric. And if I don't have it, I can get it. Email me at Info@rcdirectonline.com with pics preferred.

I am posing this as a general question as I am figuring other vehicles besides the micro I am working with probably have had this issue.

Anyway, the vehicle I am working with has its front steering knuckles and its rear carriers with no form of a spacer between the inner and outer bearings. The axle just goes through both of them.

When I tighten down the wheel nuts, it will start to bind up. I am thinking that maybe the axle is somehow contacting the balls in the bearings and seizing them up. If thats the case, maybe some sort of thin spacer so the axle is only touching the raised portions of the bearing could be used?

Curious how others handled this issue.

Hi All,

I am working on building a track in my backyard and there is just not much information out there on doing this. I have attached my layout and would like some feedback. We intend to run 1/8 buggys on it and the most cars at the same time would be 3. The diagram is to scale and is 1 inch equals 8 feet so the lanes are 8' wide.

I really can't find any information on building the jumps, like how much dirt needed to build start of jump and landing? How deep would they need to be and how high?

Any help, input, direction would be appreciated, all the information I get when googled is way out dated.

Thanks

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I recently bought an HPI Blitz and raced it last Wed night at RCHQ in San Antonio. Great bunch of friendly racers and the Hobby shop personnel are top notch. So far I've added the the rear 4degree toe in blocks, laid down the rear shocks, changed the battery connector to a deans and tightened the servo saver down. I think the truck is really good right out of the box and am happy with it; however, I'm sure I'll start modifying soon. Right now they run all the SCT in a bucket class with XXT, T4's and what every a person shows up with. I'm not planning on trying to beat everything on the track..just have the truck run as best it can. I'm looking to mod in stages based on the best bag for the buck.

Here are the steps I would like to do:
1. Start running Lipo instead of NIMh. Pros-cost, weight savings, higher
constant voltages and longer runtimes Cons-Cost. I'll need a different
charger and the Lipos might not be as durable for the long term?
2. Change the rims and tires to Prolines. Pros- better traction. Cons- Cost,
probably will need to change the suspension quite a bit to take advantage of
the increased traction.
3. Change the radio system and servo. Pros-less chance of radio hits or
conflicting freq. more adjustability, better steering control. Cons-Cost
4. Upgrade to brushless sytem. Pros-more power, longer runtimes, less
maintenance. Cons- Cost and trying to figure out the best system for the best
price.

These are just ideas I've come up with. I know the best bang for the buck is more wheel time and learning how to drive the truck better. Please look over my plan and offer any suggestions you might have.
Thanks,
SteveO

I am a nube to this and am about to buy a slash with a stock motor and esc and it also comes with a brushless system. It is not coming with batteries and I would like to know what kind of batteries and charger do I need. Thanks

I am trying to use stick weights on a couple of my cars and i am unsuccessful. I can't get the wieghts to stick on certain cars (I.E. traxxas slash). Do any of you all have advice on how to get these things to stick on stubborn chassis?:confused:

Hello people! I have ordered my Kyosho RT5 and I would like to know if there is anything else I will need to build my kit w/o having to put it aside for 1-2 days to get the missing mats... I mean

Beer... I know but what else?

Will I need shock oil? or they come pre-assembled?

Do I need to buy sand paper to make sure all parts are flawless before startinng the assembly?

Will I need glue?

Velcro?

I will have my Tekin RS pro esc/ spektrum receiver... Just velcro them?

Solder iron and solder lines? Im so confused If I bought the Tekin RS pro 8.5t it wont come with the Hot wire? 300$ for esc+ motor but simple wire? wtf

For Christmas I would like

Mi4LP
Cat SX
HPI Blitz
HPI Formula Ten
HB VE8
Durango DEX10
OFNA Hyper 10SC
Xray X11
Team Orion Carbon Molecular Li-Po's
Novak Kinetic ESC
Gecko Tires
etc etc etc..............................

Is it just me or is our hobby in the Golden Age. Can't believe how much amazing products keep getting released. Need to get a bank loan:lol:

I am looking at picking up a ceramic bearing set, there seems to be two main companies doing this(boca bearings and Acer). Does anyone here have and pros or cons for either or both of these places, I know Acer advertises here so people may be partial, I am looking for ceramic only, so any help is great!!

Can anyone recommend the mounts that would work best for this. Thanks

I have only raced three times now and I am really struggling in dealing with contact from other trucks. I have found that if I can get out of traffic I can pretty much keep up with anyone at our track (my best 5 laps vs. TQer and a-main winner's best 5 laps last night were less than 2 seconds different for the 5 laps), but I get absolutely killed when having to deal with traffic and contact. Is this something that I will learn with time or are there any techniques or methods to deal with this?

why do my back wheels on the back of my rustler jump and woble? do i need to change my bearings?

After racing last night I was wondering if a short technical track takes away a lot of the advantages of modifications. Last night after our qualifying heats the TQer for spec sct would have qualified second for mod sct only 4 seconds behind the mod TQer. Second through fourth in each division would have been very close as well. Our track is fairly small, 40' x 80' with a lot of tight turns and only one straight away where you can really open it up and I am wondering if this is not allowing the mod class to have much of an advantage.

my son and i started racing rc late in the summer.
we started with spec slash. im thinking about building another vehicle.
im thinking either a short course truck, or a stadium truck.
if i went stadium truck what truck would you suggest, rb5, losi?
then if i did what motor speed control combo would be good for a medium sized off road track?
if i go short course our club is gonna run 4x4 slashes in a class deemed
shourt course mod. if i were to run say a modded blitz would i get my rearend handed to me. or should i just get a 4x4 slash?
again if i go blitz what motor speed control combo would be good?

sorry if this is too much but everybody that has givin me advice in this forum
about chargers and batteries etc. have been right on the money.
thanks again.

I am building my new SC10, and I wanted to get some advice on the gear diff. I am running stock, so I am not going to switch to a ball diff.

The manual shows just using some black grease in the gear diff and that's it ... would it be better to use actual trans. fluid or green slime or any other fluid?? Any suggestions would be great, I want a nice diff!!!:D