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Old 07-11-2017, 09:10 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Quote:
Originally Posted by KA2AEV
Al you will find a lot more info on the Mini Forum that Tony Gray mentioned previously!
They already have them built on there as well as the guys already discussed the chassis
problem you're about to experience

You mean the Mini Cooper thread, correct?

Yes Sir!!!
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Old 07-11-2017, 09:24 AM
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Put the diff in last night. Everything worked smooth
I did clean out the bearings from the heavy lube Tamiya uses. Oiled the bearings with bearing oil. Made the drivetrain smooth and freed it up.
Love the simplicity of the drivetrain.. Makes it ultra easy for maintenance
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Old 07-11-2017, 04:11 PM
  #33  
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As you can see from the picture
The drivetrain layout is very efficient and easy too work on.
For those that don't know. The blue aluminum plate is the motor mount
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya M-07 Concept-img_2109.jpg  
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Old 07-12-2017, 04:24 PM
  #34  
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Someone asked thru pm, and yes don't forget the spacers in the drivetrain!!
They are on the "B" parts plastic tree.
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Old 07-12-2017, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Al Sodano
As you can see from the picture
The drivetrain layout is very efficient and easy too work on.
For those that don't know. The blue aluminum plate is the motor mount
Still too much tooth contact for my taste. It looks like more contact than my m03 with chamfered gears: tamiya should try to make those gears smaller...
Also the module is also too big: it's the same as the m03... Every new model has to be better than the previous one ...

Last edited by bertrandsv87; 07-12-2017 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 07-12-2017, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
Still too much tooth contact for my taste. It looks like more contact than my m03 with chamfered gears: tamiya should try to make those gears smaller...
Also the module is also too big: it's the same as the m03... Every new model has to be better than the previous one ...
The spur hasn't changed but the teeth are a much finer pitch on the diff.
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Old 07-12-2017, 05:17 PM
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If we look at the gear contact points, we can say that the spur&pinion contact point is good or not much can be done there in reducing the size of the contact point, but the next contact point between the spur and idler gear is much larger and the contact tip of the idler can be reduced to a good size(3mm to 4mm) . In addition, the contact point between the idler and the diff gear is even larger(12+mm) when only about 4mm is needed... My m03 manta ray diff is around the 5-7mm mark which I thought was huge for such low power, but tamiya seems to want to continue down the chunky gears path(maybe for perceived durability) that keeps hurting performance...
I don't even want to mention rotational mass losses, windage losses, noise losses, and gear vibration(wiggle) losses....
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Old 07-12-2017, 06:28 PM
  #38  
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Apologies if this has already been answered, but the gears look the same as ab M05? So the gear diffs I have will suit?
It is definitely a more user friendly layout, maintenance should be much easier.
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Old 07-12-2017, 07:44 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by nova2015
Apologies if this has already been answered, but the gears look the same as ab M05? So the gear diffs I have will suit?
It is definitely a more user friendly layout, maintenance should be much easier.
It's not the same
The gear diff is the same as a rear TA06 diff
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Old 07-12-2017, 07:56 PM
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Got the frontend basically done
Went with the dcj axles and the titanium screw kit

Quality is soooo much better
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya M-07 Concept-img_2112.jpg   Tamiya M-07 Concept-img_2113.jpg   Tamiya M-07 Concept-img_2114.jpg  
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Old 07-12-2017, 09:39 PM
  #41  
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Got mine on the way Friday! So excited....this will be my first mini since the M01
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:57 AM
  #42  
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I am awaiting (also my for my M07 co-incidentally) for someone to post the all up grams of the complete car with a stock size battery pack. Probably just the pics but I perceive the M07 as a bit of a lead sled against the shorty M03 ;-)

Thanks and regards
Dave

Originally Posted by Al Sodano
As you can see from the picture
The drivetrain layout is very efficient and easy too work on.
For those that don't know. The blue aluminum plate is the motor mount
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Old 07-13-2017, 06:37 AM
  #43  
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Thanks for the step by step build photos Al. I'm getting the Mini itch again. May have to pick one up from Brownies Hobby Shop. Best Hobby Shop around for Tamiya parts.
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Old 07-13-2017, 02:50 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Al Sodano
Got the frontend basically done
Went with the dcj axles and the titanium screw kit

Quality is soooo much better
looks good

I have to say, i think you are the only person i've ever seen that actually uses the body clips to hold the bearings in like the directions show

i guess that's what makes you so fast
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Old 07-13-2017, 07:20 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by iti20090
I am awaiting (also my for my M07 co-incidentally) for someone to post the all up grams of the complete car with a stock size battery pack. Probably just the pics but I perceive the M07 as a bit of a lead sled against the shorty M03 ;-)

Thanks and regards
Dave
Mine was 1305gr all stock kit build with a gens ace 7000 battery and a Miata body. Motor was the TCS spec'd Reedy and I use a Hobbywing xr10 Pro Stock Spec esc. Servo was a shorty Savox and receiver is a Sanwa RX-472
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