Let’s talk about diff balls
#16
ive had carbides in my diffs for over a year and they're still smoother after a rebuild than any new steel balled diff plus you can do the diffs right up without fear of putting a flat on the balls. i want to try ceramics because they're sposed to be a 10th the weight of tungsten and last forever. as for bearings id put ceramics in the drive train but yokomos tend to knacker their hub bearings in the first accident so i use flushed out £1 throwaway steel ones on the extremities and just change then often!
#17
Originally Posted by Aluma
hey guys with the diff plates...I hadn't rebuilt it in about a year, so mine had a little groove, so I sanded it down until it was gone with sandpaper, then used a fine grain to polish it out a bit. When I rebuilt it, the diff sounded gritty. It doesnt slip anymore, but the sound gets to me...is it the plate or the steel balls?
Plus, it's better to not polish diff rings...sand them with a fine grit paper and leave them as is!
#18
Tech Adept
THANKS for all the info . do you mean change them after 10 packs or full race days ?
#20
Originally Posted by serpentrush
THANKS for all the info . do you mean change them after 10 packs or full race days ?
I usually only go through 2-3 sets of diff rings every season. That's using the front and back...I always change them way before they go bad.
#21
I'm with koabitch, Ceramics all the way. I also have the hardest balls and am happy with them, put them in every car I buy and best of all, they're only $10 per diff so it's not like you're ruining yourself buying them... Diffs last longer between rebuilds and never gets very bad, and I dont have an issue with diff rings, mine lasts for about 8 months on the rear diff, and they cost virtually nothing anyway.
#22
Tech Regular