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Old 05-15-2017, 11:59 PM   #16
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Wowww.

Guys thanks a lot. Once again you have been really helpful. well once i find time i will do everything you have advised me. To say the truth i never have the free time to go to the track and spend time to set up the car. I always go to the race and what ever i do is during the race.

Btw what tires are you guys running for asphalt? I am running sorex 32 and ride 34 for asphalt. Almost every race i need new tyres as they are torn out

Esc is the trackstar one from hobbyking. gen II. Motor is a ready 4.5. The car as i have specified before is the serpent 2.0 i have build the car since 2013 and i have never really played with setups. I am lucking steering and stability. rear diff is 1000 cst.

What do the roll centers really change on the car?

I am thinking of buying the aluminium rear hubs does anyone knows if they are worth the buy?

I have written down some of my random thoughts
Rush 36X and Solaris 36J are the asphalt tires to run if you want fast lap times and 15+ runs on a set (both are available in the store below in my signature and a bunch of common places pre mounted for $35ish) This should be your first place to start, anything else is secondary to tires.

Rear diff for AE cars is nearly always 10k, unless for some reason your diff is extremely thick with 1k, you're far too thin, at least try 5k.

roll centers change the roll front and rear, its likely that you won't have to adjust more than 0.5mm inner shim from a kit setup but you might want to run short links (I don't know your car exactly) but camber gain is usually good on asphalt, start around 1.5 degrees go up to maybe 2 front or rear depending on your tests.

Aluminum bends and is heavy, plastic is nice.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:25 AM   #17
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I have changed the front roll center and i couldn't get a lot of what i wanted.steering

Thanks for the help Brian. My car is a serpent 2.0.

It might be the rear oil. You know when i build the car i remember it had 1200 oil and i didn't like it as the rear end was spinning. I am trying to find stability rear traction on power during acceleration. The track has a corners that need steering while you are on power.maybe increase caster?

Az for the solari tyres i have searched and found them in Europe.

Thanks again
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Old 05-16-2017, 02:11 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by didrace View Post
I have changed the front roll center and i couldn't get a lot of what i wanted.steering

Thanks for the help Brian. My car is a serpent 2.0.

It might be the rear oil. You know when i build the car i remember it had 1200 oil and i didn't like it as the rear end was spinning. I am trying to find stability rear traction on power during acceleration. The track has a corners that need steering while you are on power.maybe increase caster?

Az for the solari tyres i have searched and found them in Europe.

Thanks again
Usually thicker rear diff oil will give you a lot more on power steering. We usually run 5000 cst to 7000cst for good traction and 3000 cost for okay to lower traction. This change should give you the biggest difference and is easy to over do. Go as thick as you can until the car becomes too twitchy to drive. You will lose off power steering but not too bad usually.
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Old 05-17-2017, 08:28 AM   #19
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I have the same thoughts as the OP at times. I watch the fast guys go through a corner and it looks like they are able to run much faster than I am. So I ask myself, am I running the same line? If not, can I? If I can't run that line, why not? What is preventing me from running that line - not enough steering, too much steering, problems out of the previous corner, etc... Then I try to adjust to get the balance to allow me to run the line. Once I get to where I feel I can run the line that everyone else is running and the car feels good, then I look to see where my times are compared to the fast guys. If I am running the line, and the car balance is good, then it may be the car just can't generate the grip with the current setup. Adjust some more. If all of your adjustments make things worse, then you have reached the limit of either the car or your setup knowledge.

I keep this link on my phone all the time: R/C Car Handling - Touring Car Setup Guide

It is a bit older, but I think the info is pretty sound. It matches up with other stuff I have read.

But at the end of the day, as everyone has said, a good driver with a mediocre car will beat a mediocre driver with a great car 9 times out of 10.

IndyRC_Racer has helped me a ton. He has taken my crappy setup car and immediately improved on my times by a half second. Then he has offered suggestions and I have worked on my car. I have learned a bunch from him and I use that to work on my setups. I still don't think my car is perfect, but it is getting closer to what I want. And he will still go out an beat me by a half second with it!
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Old 05-18-2017, 06:26 AM   #20
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Hi again to everyone.

Thanks for the help toby and 0010.

I will surely try youe suggestion and i will come back to you for questions.

I have noticed the last few year the designer are trying hard to take away the chassis twist and they are playing with the twitching of the chassis a lot. Also they try to achieve lower center of gravity as well as lighter cars. I see floating servo mounts different motor mounts low resistance and lightweight diffs. Lower and thicker shocks.

Whom do you think which design and which manufacturer did the best work? Which one has better ideas? and which ones ideas work best? I see everyone follows the other except serpent and one more manufacturer. I also see that many manufacturers follow xray. What do you guys think?
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:22 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by didrace View Post
Hi again to everyone.

Thanks for the help toby and 0010.

I will surely try youe suggestion and i will come back to you for questions.

I have noticed the last few year the designer are trying hard to take away the chassis twist and they are playing with the twitching of the chassis a lot. Also they try to achieve lower center of gravity as well as lighter cars. I see floating servo mounts different motor mounts low resistance and lightweight diffs. Lower and thicker shocks.

Whom do you think which design and which manufacturer did the best work? Which one has better ideas? and which ones ideas work best? I see everyone follows the other except serpent and one more manufacturer. I also see that many manufacturers follow xray. What do you guys think?
I haven't tried the new crop of cars but from what I have seen I think that XRAY is a great car but it is the definition of conventional with its rear motor layout, standard shocks, standard swaybars, conventional chassis and carbon plate top deck, and the like. That is not to say I think they are unimaginative or haven't tried, their car is exceptional and very well made, but it is a "standard" touring car, a standard layout and suspension type that they developed themselves. A good analogy would be that if you wanted a new guitar a Les Paul Standard would be a damn good choice, as would an XRAY.

Awesomatix and now Serpent have much more interesting cars, in my opinion. The A700 was a radical departure from convention, and the Serpent 4-X looks like a work of art and both have had great success with Awesomatix showing great results in stock with both shaft and belt drive cars, but it's hard to say that one is absolutely better than the other or better than conventional cars like the Xray or AE's TC7.

I don't think that its much of a stretch to say that the Xray or Associated would be easier for someone who has only worked on standard cars to work on. Their conventional layout means that the usual tuning rules still apply, and the new units may have a more distinct learning curve.

I am looking into new touring kits as I haven't bought one in many years and I am leaning awesomatix, not because I think the others are in some way worse, but the car appeals to my way of thinking and it has an appropriately large following in the US. For me it's as simple as that.
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