759LikesMugen MTC1
03-13-2018, 09:34 AM - Wikipost
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Mugen MTC1 Wiki:
MTC1 Manual on the Mugen Web Site. Correction for the manual   The max/min tooth count of the spur and pinion combined. 64p = 127 to 164 total teeth  48p = 95 to 120 total teeth  People who have spare spur gears left over from other cars which they wish to use but can only utilize 2 of the 4 mounting holes, here's neat trick from MKAH to drill 2 more holes precisely in the spur gear: 1.Dismantle the Spur Holder and mount XRAY Spur with two screws.  2.If you have take a 3mm Top Setting Screw  3.Get the Top Screw in the first free thread to the Spur Holder from the other side until it touches the Spur a litle bit. Make the same with the second free Thread.  4.Dismantle Top set Srew an the two screws witch holds the Spur on the Holder. Now you see two marks absolutely central.  5. Take an 3mm Driller an Drill the holes at the marked places  6.Mount the Spur with the two old and two new holes on the Spur.  Spur Gears known to fit the gear holder with the correct hole pattern 1. Axon 2. Panaracer Upper front arm hinge pin set screw tip (or any of the kit set screws): When installing the set screw run the set screw in until you can see it come into the hinge pin gap. Back the screw out and make sure there is no flashing in the way and then the screw. Now slide the pin in and you should hit the pin and come to a dead stop. It will be a solid feel and not sloppy like it will not tighten which is caused by any loose plastic. Hara's Setup  Robert Pietsch's Latest Carpet Setup 
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05-27-2017, 03:11 AM
#76
Because this is Mugen not xyz that nobody has ever heard of until last week. Because this is a well established world championship winning company with a solid reputation, racing team, resources etc. Because the deign of the car is a further refinement of what is proven to work awesome. Because it would seem naive to think otherwise.
Or maybe I'm just excited to see another potentially good car on the market. Maybe.
Or maybe I'm just excited to see another potentially good car on the market. Maybe.
Last edited by Lesdi; 05-27-2017 at 03:30 AM.
05-27-2017, 05:35 AM
#77
Tech Adept
05-27-2017, 06:19 AM
#79
Tech Adept
Everything looks good to me but the alu diff gear is what keeps me away. How much it cost for getting extra gear diff set? The extra cost is not doing any good in performance.
05-27-2017, 06:48 AM
#80
Aluminium diff case works for Awesomatix. Cost doesn't seem to be an issue. The cars sell out constantly.
05-27-2017, 07:08 AM
#81
You don't need to buy spare diffs. If you need a front one, that will be a one-off and you'll just have to bear it like you would with any other car. The Losi alloy diffs are not more expensive than the Xray plastic diff.
Gear diffs don't need fiddling, you pretty much set and forget once you have found the oil you like. An alloy casing/metal gears diff has a decisive advantage here as well because you can use any aggressive cleaner and be done with it in ten seconds rather than the plastic one where you have to be careful and you have to clean each little fiddly bit with inefficient solvents until your casing and gears are clean. It becomes a chore to change diff oils and I effing hate it.
Gear diffs don't need fiddling, you pretty much set and forget once you have found the oil you like. An alloy casing/metal gears diff has a decisive advantage here as well because you can use any aggressive cleaner and be done with it in ten seconds rather than the plastic one where you have to be careful and you have to clean each little fiddly bit with inefficient solvents until your casing and gears are clean. It becomes a chore to change diff oils and I effing hate it.
05-27-2017, 07:25 AM
#82
Tech Adept
niznai: I don't change diff oil, I have like 5 rear diff with different kind of thickness of oil. no waste track time.
05-27-2017, 07:49 AM
#83
I will keep it simple guys...... Based on Mugen's quality I would pull the trigger on this car if I needed one. I have 2 Xrays and will not change as of now. What interests me about the Mugen is the front end looks a bit more beefy. Possibly less DNF's....
05-28-2017, 05:02 AM
#84
Tech Initiate
05-28-2017, 08:58 AM
#85
And I think you'd be very determined to smash an xray front end.
Either way, I am interested in this car as well, and I actually am in the market for a car.
What I would like to see in a new car is proper indexing of the bulkheads and suspension mounts (not so much suspension mounts, but if possible, I would like to see it). In fact I would like to see everything indexed if possible. And it's not that hard, there's plenty of joining edges that can be used to index parts to each other, you don't need to use steel pins everywhere. A little imagination goes a long way.
No car has such indexing and I can see on the setup station how much things can shift around simply because of part variability and manufacturing tolerance.
Suspension mount indexing like you see in the Tamiya and Yokomo cars is not really serious. The locating pins are so sloppy, they don't really do anything and even if they were tight, they would not prevent rotation around the pin.
Of the cars I know only Capricorn have the bulkheads indexed, but not with solid pins (the bulkheads have a shoulder around the bottom screw holes, but it is very thin - about .5mm and being aluminium and countersunk it is very weak), and I have managed to smash the rear end on mine and destroy the index on one of the bulkheads.
I know this means more cost, but it is something I would be willing to pay for. Two screw holes are not enough to properly index when you rely on the countersink to guide the screw home. Three holes spaced far apart like the old Xrays was good enough. Two holes close together and relying on the shock tower to tie things together is not enough. That is one reason Xray has the servo mount attached with three screws, not two. 1/8 cars have everything indexed properly with steel pins and the cars are solid as the great wall.
It will happen one day.
05-28-2017, 09:39 AM
#86
If they index the chassis and make it tight, it will be stiff. Then the manufacturers would have to spend a tonne of money on designing new suspension to make them handle. It's currently much cheaper and easier to use chassis flex as a band aid solution.
8th scale cars can be very stiff for the foam tires give them so much more grip to work with. Never mind the area grip generated by the bodies.
8th scale cars can be very stiff for the foam tires give them so much more grip to work with. Never mind the area grip generated by the bodies.
05-28-2017, 10:30 AM
#87
Tech Adept
niznai: You guessed is kinda right. But not 5, I have 3 sets of shock with 30, 40, 50 oil. I feel I can't run only one kind of rear diff oil all the way. For example, in morning I use 3000 then when traction is increasing I may use 7000, then at night I may use 15000. And run with new tyre means traction is good, I use thicker oil. I have my diff always ready with 3000, 5000, 7000, 10000, 15000. Not to mention about front diff with puffy, 1000000. You can count how many diff i got. In fact, I hate massing with oil in pit.
05-28-2017, 11:29 AM
#88
What can I say?
You're a much more serious racer than I.
About chassis stiffness, I don't think so. The stiffness is still given by the material used in the chassis, the span of the top deck and many other factors. I agree indexing everything would impact the chassis flex somewhat, but not that much.
And what the heck? There is plenty of choice for carbon plates, you can always make the chassis thinner, or have cutouts like the old Xray cars and so on.
Like you said, a bandaid solution, but it has repercussions further down the line. However, I still think the main reason we don't see proper indexing is cost.
That said, in some cases you do have to wonder what the heck they were thinking, wasting their time to machine in aluminium those supposed indexing pins and then making them useless (undersize). Really, Tamiya/Yokomo?! I think it would have actually been cheaper to just drill a hole and use a steel pin of proper size.
If you remember Xray used to have two screws and one pin machined on their early floating servo supports. Until they realised it was costing them too much, and then just drilled another hole and put a screw in it.
You're a much more serious racer than I.
About chassis stiffness, I don't think so. The stiffness is still given by the material used in the chassis, the span of the top deck and many other factors. I agree indexing everything would impact the chassis flex somewhat, but not that much.
And what the heck? There is plenty of choice for carbon plates, you can always make the chassis thinner, or have cutouts like the old Xray cars and so on.
Like you said, a bandaid solution, but it has repercussions further down the line. However, I still think the main reason we don't see proper indexing is cost.
That said, in some cases you do have to wonder what the heck they were thinking, wasting their time to machine in aluminium those supposed indexing pins and then making them useless (undersize). Really, Tamiya/Yokomo?! I think it would have actually been cheaper to just drill a hole and use a steel pin of proper size.
If you remember Xray used to have two screws and one pin machined on their early floating servo supports. Until they realised it was costing them too much, and then just drilled another hole and put a screw in it.
05-29-2017, 05:04 AM
#89
Tech Adept
One big issue with indexing, is the car can be easily tweaked. Even with high precision of machining, it is very very difficult with indexing everything without tweaking. Also, the car can be tweaked more seriously with indexing if you tighten the left right screw unevenly. So, I think indexing is not a good thing for 1/10 touring EP. The more indexing means the more tweak, the more stiffer chassis. (i don't have that experience on GP, so only apply my statement to EP touring.)
