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Old 04-13-2017, 04:42 AM   #16
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Phat, a few things you may want to consider:

Does the car run and steer well at half-speed laps and then only push at race speed? If so, I would bet money that your car is dragging the edge of the chassis as you dive into the corners, even if there is no residue on the chassis plate. If a much stiffer front sway bar makes the car more consistent this was probably your issue.

It is possible to have the car transfer too much weight to the front to steer effectively. Reducing your ESC's drag brake, taking out the rear droop, or shifting your battery back may help rotation as well.
i actually did try the car with it turned down in the radio and it did have better entry steering, granted that i did run unglued front tires at that time too and i was fighting traction rolling. but i do have residue on my chassis after every run so i guess the sway bars are necessary to run #dulynoted. i will work on getting the bearing to put that back onto my car.

drag brake i have on my car is probably about 20% or so, i dont have too much in it. i'll also keep that rear droop info in my mind, but i did run little droop and more and didnt get the entry steering effects i was looking for with that. i could be beating my head against the wall not running the sway bars since it's not freed up to make that turn.

i appreciate it
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Old 04-13-2017, 04:43 AM   #17
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I also think your roll center is too close to the lowest settings to give you enough responsiveness(less chassis roll) for carpet racing... You can try sliding the thinnest roll center shim under your A arms, front and rear, to increase responsiveness a bit from your current settings(asphalt settings)....
Also , a 2.6 spring in the front with a bigger swaybar might help....
i'll looking into this as well, but i did run stiffer spring up front it seemed to make it more predictable, but i was still looking for more entry. as i posted above i think my biggest issue right now i need to rectify is to get those sway bars back on asap
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Old 04-13-2017, 04:45 AM   #18
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would you all run a thicker oil to reduce roll too?
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Old 04-13-2017, 05:10 AM   #19
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would you all run a thicker oil to reduce roll too?
I'd actually run thinner oil. Not to reduce roll, but to make the car less edgy and less prone to traction roll.
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Old 04-13-2017, 08:51 AM   #20
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would you all run a thicker oil to reduce roll too?
Yes , but only 10 weight thicker than asphalt settings to start and not heavy enough to cause traction roll with properly glued front tires....
Increasing roll will only make the car lazy, taking too much time to transition and consequently hitting boards: the car will have the worst laptimes ever, but will never traction roll... Racing fast is always done at the edge of traction rolling without going over....
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Old 04-13-2017, 09:05 AM   #21
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For starters, I seen no one has mentioned glue on your sidewalls. Assuming this is high grip crc black carpet, how high are you gluing your tires? Your car will push everywhere if you are gluing too high. Second, your mid/exit push is most likely your diff. You need to be In the 8-10k oil range to keep from diffing out on the high grip carpet. Lastly, a speed 6 has less initial steering. I would recommend a montech is200. Very aggressive on entry yet still stable.

I had terrible luck when gluing tires. I found that doping the inside half of the tire, and not cleaning it and allowing a marble to build up on the outside of the tire worked much much better than gluing the tire.

Gluing does help traction roll, but you really have to work the setup on the front of the car ( in my case un desirable results ) to get the push out.
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Old 04-13-2017, 09:45 AM   #22
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Yes , but only 10 weight thicker than asphalt settings to start and not heavy enough to cause traction roll with properly glued front tires....
Increasing roll will only make the car lazy, taking too much time to transition and consequently hitting boards: the car will have the worst laptimes ever, but will never traction roll... Racing fast is always done at the edge of traction rolling without going over....
i've never run asphalt so....
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Old 04-13-2017, 08:39 PM   #23
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Understood..... Most setups seem to start with 450cst shock oil....
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:23 AM   #24
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I had terrible luck when gluing tires. I found that doping the inside half of the tire, and not cleaning it and allowing a marble to build up on the outside of the tire worked much much better than gluing the tire.

Gluing does help traction roll, but you really have to work the setup on the front of the car ( in my case un desirable results ) to get the push out.
You guys may want to consider the advice being offered by roadrage. Just sayin.....
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Old 04-14-2017, 11:50 AM   #25
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You guys may want to consider the advice being offered by roadrage. Just sayin.....
I would but my car is very old and different. I still run ball diffs and no way is a setup for a next gen TC going to work in my situation. Still good advice I agree.
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Old 04-14-2017, 01:34 PM   #26
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Mine is a tc4, also old, but I always like to know what these newer chassis racers have discovered so I can make my own tc4 optimization....lol...
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Old 04-14-2017, 03:58 PM   #27
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Hey Bryan, hitup xenon USA they usually have destiny tc parts in stock.
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Old 04-15-2017, 06:41 PM   #28
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Hey Bryan, hitup xenon USA they usually have destiny tc parts in stock.
Good luck with that....can't get him to reply to save my life
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Old 04-17-2017, 11:43 AM   #29
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I know that petit rc has setups on it, but I am looking for some insight on some gurus in the TC lane as there's this one track that's beating my brain as to get a setup for it as it's the only track i've been to with THAT much traction and i havent been able to get the car to do what i've wanted.

Destiny RX-10S - Bryan Thomas - Bush River Raceway - 12.03.2017

This is my general setup. Things i tried manipulating was a one step higher stiffer springs, adjusting front toe and camber, ride height and droop. I was still lacking a lot of entry steering and mediocre mid steering, exit steering wasnt bad at all. I was able to get my back end to step out how i wanted (which is more of my style of how i like to drive tc).

I've looked at some Yokomo setup sheets and there's few on the BD8, but the BD7 has something that's synonymous throughout which is heavier diff fluid and slightly heavier shock oil.

Anyone have any input they'd like to spill onto me, please? Thanks in advance
After looking at your set up I would consider changing the following - Go to 4 degree caster blocks from the 6, go up to 500 shock oil, go to 1 degree positive front toe from .5, go up to minimum of 5,000 diff fluid (maybe even 10K) and go to 2.6 rear springs.

Tire glue is also crucial as some stated already. Be careful as to much glue will make the car push hard and not give the steering needed. You can also try 3mm front shims on the front inner camber links if the front is to aggressive. Hope that helps
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Old 04-17-2017, 11:45 AM   #30
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You guys may want to consider the advice being offered by roadrage. Just sayin.....
I don't see anybody named roadrage on that list...
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