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Old 01-22-2006, 06:07 PM   #31
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You guys are making this process to complicated.

Sand chassis edges and file the battery slots.
Next, on a paper towel put a few drops of blue locktight at a time and wipe
the edges.

That is it... same result as above. PERFECT!!
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Old 03-02-2006, 06:39 AM   #32
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Any picture of a chassis done with blue loctite?
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Old 03-02-2006, 08:28 AM   #33
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Cripes guys, remember, the glueing/loctiting of edges is only there to stop the laminates of Carbon sheets getting split/damaged.....
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Old 03-02-2006, 08:36 AM   #34
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I heard clear nail polish instend of CA works too. Gives it shiny finish too. I messed up mine but i sanded it down and it isnt shiney but its not white anymore and its smooth, I was wondering if putting a coat of Clear nail polish would give it the shine look?
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Old 03-02-2006, 01:27 PM   #35
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Very nice write up!! I'll be using this when I get my new car!!
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Old 03-03-2006, 03:28 AM   #36
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just did it on my T2, works like a charm.. !
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Old 03-03-2006, 11:00 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriiick
just did it on my T2, works like a charm.. !
just a update to my post, to avoid flaking of the sides, you need to use a q tip and place a small amount of glue on the edges of the sanded part pf the carbonfibre, and the flat "deck" and underside section. this avoids peeling or flaking, as it seals the edge better. i found otherwise the texta flakes of if you run your fingeragainst the grain of the carbon.

i have found that pactra black paint mixed to the right ratio (50/50 with pactra thinner) or fascolour black works better than texta, and it doesn't flake. i will be doing this updated technique to my bmi kit.
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Old 05-15-2006, 11:59 AM   #38
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The original post is a little unclear do you sand before you put the glue on?

Here's what I think it is as of now:
wash with detergent
put marker on edges
put ca on edges by dropping or with cutip
sand with 400 grit sand paper w/ parts wet
sand with 1200 grit sand paper w/ parts wet

I was just thinking, could you take a piece of scotch tape (perferably scotch because it doesnt have as much tacky stuff on the bottom as masking tape) and put it hanging off the edge of the chassis on each side lining the entire chassis. That would create a kind of canal for the glue to run in preventing it from running onto the sides. The only issue I can think of as long as you dont put to much and apply it to the graphite not funnel it into the sides of the tape is that when you want to take the tape off it may be glued to the edges of the chassis. I guess when you sand it you could take off the little bit of tape though.

Also are you sanding it to a round edge in this method, or are you just naturally allowing it to become a round edge by sanding by hand?
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Old 05-16-2006, 09:46 PM   #39
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The first thing i do is round the edges of the chassis with a file and then i start sanding with 400 grit. I work my to 1000 grit. Then i use the sharpie and color the edge. After that i use losi thin tire ca and run a small bead around the entire edge. I usually put 2 coats on so its smooth and let it sit over nite. Then i polish the edges by wet sanding them from 6000-12000 grit. It makes the edges feel like glass and it will never snag on carpet. I've never had a chassis split when i prepped them like this and it looks killer. Even without the sharpie graphite looks good when its ca'd and polished. I think its worth the time spent.
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:28 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr RCTech View Post
Not bad...

But most pros use blue locktight instead of CA!

Easyer, faster..less mess!!!

Interesting...I have never heard of this method. Every write up I've found has been on using CA. Got a link to someone using locktite? I'd love to see how it comes out.
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Old 10-01-2007, 10:39 PM   #41
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loctite 406 good stuff runny great for tires and chassis prep a bit cheaper than rc stuff but lacks the fine nozzles but u can buy them so?
if u do get a major drip clean it of with acetone it works and i remember adrian saying something like acetone wont effect cf as the resin in cf is like imune almost ive done it works good lets u try again and again
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Old 10-02-2007, 12:20 AM   #42
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Even try 4 to 1 weight epoxy resin, this the same resin used to make to the CF sheets.....
sand and apply with the Q tip...this is thicker than CA and gives the rounded edge and depth...
cure time is 2-4 or 12 hr. depending on the hardner used...

great thread
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Old 10-02-2007, 01:17 AM   #43
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Great stuff, I will put it in my RC Knowledge base (rcpoint.nl). Just startet to build it up by researching internet.
Thanks
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Old 04-28-2008, 04:44 PM   #44
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any harm or risk to doing the sanding of the edges with a dremel on low?
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Old 04-28-2008, 05:26 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nemix View Post
any harm or risk to doing the sanding of the edges with a dremel on low?
No, that's how I start mine, but I switch to sandpaper in various grits to complete the job. I also use files to initiate some of the larger work areas. The dremel works fast, but be very careful, you can end up with too much off or indentations from the drum sander if not moved around in consistent strokes.
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