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Old 01-21-2006, 01:14 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Mr RCTech
Not bad...

But most pros use blue locktight instead of CA!

Easyer, faster..less mess!!!
Really??
They use it just like CA? Does it take longer to dry?
Currently, I use the CRC method of dripping the CA over the chassis edges and waiting for it to dry.
I then wet sand it with 1000 grit.
Comes out just as shiny and smooth as the above pictures.
Using the same method, would I just replace the CA with blue locktight or is it used differently?
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Old 01-21-2006, 09:14 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr RCTech
Not bad...

But most pros use blue locktight instead of CA!

Easyer, faster..less mess!!!
interesting
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Old 01-21-2006, 09:22 PM   #18
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I sand the edges of the CF to knock the sharpness off. I then coat them with thin CA not worrying too much about how smooth they look. Next I sand the CA'ed edges with 320 to work on smooth edges. That's followed by 600 and then followed by 1600-1800 grit. The last thing I do is polish the edges with Mother's Chrome polish for a mirror finish. Awesome edges!
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Old 01-21-2006, 09:34 PM   #19
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what do you all do if you get it (CA) on the "finished" flat surface???? (the part "not" intended to be worked on) w/ CA??? are you screwed???
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Old 01-21-2006, 09:46 PM   #20
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I would like to ask my question here......I am done with the sanding part (12th scale chassis)....rounded the edge of the chassis and the lowered pod and did the CA around the rounded edge, when it dry....totally horrible looking, forming white stuff every where on the edge and they are now rough surface (not smooth and round like before...)

Am I missing some step here....? The problem I think I have is, I am just applying CA by dropped them around the edge (direct from the bottle)....Kinda like what CRC write up said but the CA somehow is not "light" enough for it to drip around the edge, so I have to keep applying around the edge...and it is kinda thick....and I have seen you guys are using WET Q-TIPS to paste CA around the edge.........is THAT the key of the difference?

I ended up sanding the whole CA off and now it is rounded and very smooth, but NO CA on the edge.......do I really need to add CA on the rounded edge?

Thanks for advance.....this thread need to be sticky....
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Old 01-21-2006, 09:57 PM   #21
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Anyone got a quick and easy way of bevelling battery cut outs?
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Old 01-21-2006, 11:32 PM   #22
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Looking very nice there VWO now I'll just have to try that technique out with my next car
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Old 01-22-2006, 02:06 AM   #23
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Default You guys put too much work into it.

I just use Losi tire glue and it leaves a very shiny edge. Same as your method. Just hold the bottle tip so that it nearly touches the cf and run it down the edge. You can use the tip of the bottle to go back over if you missed some. No need to sand it either. Use a sharpy if you want the black edge look. It's easy and it only takes me a few minutes. I do like to file all the cf edges at a 45 degree angle though.
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Old 01-22-2006, 02:44 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
I would like to ask my question here......I am done with the sanding part (12th scale chassis)....rounded the edge of the chassis and the lowered pod and did the CA around the rounded edge, when it dry....totally horrible looking, forming white stuff every where on the edge and they are now rough surface (not smooth and round like before...)

Am I missing some step here....? The problem I think I have is, I am just applying CA by dropped them around the edge (direct from the bottle)....Kinda like what CRC write up said but the CA somehow is not "light" enough for it to drip around the edge, so I have to keep applying around the edge...and it is kinda thick....and I have seen you guys are using WET Q-TIPS to paste CA around the edge.........is THAT the key of the difference?

I ended up sanding the whole CA off and now it is rounded and very smooth, but NO CA on the edge.......do I really need to add CA on the rounded edge?

Thanks for advance.....this thread need to be sticky....
the white stuff is basically oil from your hands. what you should do is wash the carbon fibre with detergent and warm water with a sponge. while you are at it wash tour hands as well, this gets rid of the oil on your hands.

then just use the method/process i outlined above to avoid touching the CF. (ie, the thin nose tweezers method of holding the CF)

you avoid all fogging like this.

if you don't feel secure dripping a small bead of CA like the Calandra method, i'd recommend the q0tip, using it like i stated above. very easy. i tried the drip method, but found it ran of to the sides sometimes, and this looks apcray
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Old 01-22-2006, 04:52 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghoppa
what do you all do if you get it (CA) on the "finished" flat surface???? (the part "not" intended to be worked on) w/ CA??? are you screwed???
Well, I dont know what the rest does, but I put some aceton on a qtip, rub off the CA glue (dont rub too much or you'll damage the surface finish of the plate as well). Then I polish the surface to make it shiny again.

Usually I cant tell the difference of where I spilled ;-)
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Old 01-22-2006, 08:21 AM   #26
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Is there a way that I can repolish the entire sheet of CF? My job was crap and messy now the entire sheet looks like crap. The edges are nice but the flat suface is not.

Any way to Polish it back to almost factory?

Thanks
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:40 AM   #27
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Here's what you can try... the same way I do it, it removes small scratches...

I use Paint renovator for a car. I dont know the exact word for it in english but you can make the surface look shiny again. I guess normal chrome polish does the same thing but you really dont take af a lot of material.

What went wrong?? Did you spill CA or something like that?
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Old 01-22-2006, 03:09 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VenomWorldOrder
the white stuff is basically oil from your hands. what you should do is wash the carbon fibre with detergent and warm water with a sponge. while you are at it wash tour hands as well, this gets rid of the oil on your hands.

then just use the method/process i outlined above to avoid touching the CF. (ie, the thin nose tweezers method of holding the CF)

you avoid all fogging like this.

if you don't feel secure dripping a small bead of CA like the Calandra method, i'd recommend the q0tip, using it like i stated above. very easy. i tried the drip method, but found it ran of to the sides sometimes, and this looks apcray
Thanks...I will try that on the 12th chassis, then do that on the 3mm Fk05 and the 2mm FK05......the worst, I just use BLACK markers to cover all the white stuff...LOL.
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Old 01-22-2006, 03:33 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
Thanks...I will try that on the 12th chassis, then do that on the 3mm Fk05 and the 2mm FK05......the worst, I just use BLACK markers to cover all the white stuff...LOL.

if i get a little bit of qhite stuff on it i wet a rag with metholated spirits and rub it, it soemtimes comes of. if it is a thick cruddy type layer, it is harder to get of.
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Old 01-22-2006, 03:47 PM   #30
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On the last body I did, I just masked the whole thing with 3 inch masking tape.
Then lightly cut around with an xacto to only expose the edges.
Took me all of 5 minutes and no more worrying about fogging.
(Remember to lightly score. You don't want to knick the CF. Even if it tears uneven when you pull off the excess, who cares, you only need it to prevent fogging on the main chassis.)

As far as using the CA Drip or Q-Tip method:

The Q-tip method only coats the edge.
Meaning, you will still see the fibers underneath unless you use a Marking pen or sand and re-apply the glue.

With the drip method you actually get a tiny "Bead" of glue that is slightly rounded.
It rounds out due to the surface tension created by the sides of the chassis.
When it dries, all you have to do is wet sand it for a mirror finish. (1000 grit or higher)
Only problem with this method is that the glue takes longer to dry, so fogging is an issue unless you prep properly or just mask like I do.
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