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Old 02-26-2017, 05:07 PM   #151
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Yeah, we're not talking here about running our cars below freezing, are we? I know that chemistry needs some temperature to work, but did anyone actually check what is the optimal temperature for our batteries to work?

And it's not internal resistance decreasing, but the reaction speed that increases, which is perceived as a low(-er) internal resistance because you're using electrical parameters to measure it. Raise the temperature far enough and the reaction rate will drop. Keep raising it and you'll have an irreversible reaction (or a runaway reaction, a good time to run away - ha!).

My batteries (Muchmore run flat) have puffed up after a few cycles. I never abused them and only balance charged them, always balance discharge stored them. Less than one year later, very few races, puffed up. Waste of money. Similar things with Reedy, Orca HV and so on. Some survive, some die. Which to my mind says even buying top batteries is still a game of luck.
I was talking about your real car.

Eddie E posted that 100 degress farenheight was the number.

You can come up with all the scientific numbers you want. Heating LiPo's works.
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Old 02-26-2017, 06:22 PM   #152
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Regardless of the endless numbers everyone is throwing out to either explain, justify or to diminish... just hearing the words "stock motor" makes me laugh anymore. All I can do is shake my head when the boutique motors show up and the mains are now split into $180 main and $80 main. LOL, wait I forgot to include shipping.
Oh well stock was fun while it lasted.
Yes and No

The best motor in the world means nothing if you can't keep the car on the track. When the difference between a $180 motor and a $80 motor may be at best 0.5-1 second a lap, a crash can cost you 10-15 seconds in time getting marshalled etc. I get asked sometimes by people fairly new to a class what motor to get, and IMO it's the motor you have, motors come into play only when you can run a full race without crashing. Until then, money is better spent on handling / tyres / track time etc

Being old, I mainly run 21.5 and the motor I ran over the weekend cost me $66.90 USD plus freight from rcmart and laptime wise I wouldn't say it's any slower than the $150 Super Certified Ceramic bearing latest and greatest motor.
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Old 02-26-2017, 06:49 PM   #153
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Yes and No

The best motor in the world means nothing if you can't keep the car on the track. When the difference between a $180 motor and a $80 motor may be at best 0.5-1 second a lap, a crash can cost you 10-15 seconds in time getting marshalled etc. I get asked sometimes by people fairly new to a class what motor to get, and IMO it's the motor you have, motors come into play only when you can run a full race without crashing. Until then, money is better spent on handling / tyres / track time etc

Being old, I mainly run 21.5 and the motor I ran over the weekend cost me $66.90 USD plus freight from rcmart and laptime wise I wouldn't say it's any slower than the $150 Super Certified Ceramic bearing latest and greatest motor.
0.5-1 second a lap is huge. On one of my runs yesterday I finished middle of the pack, with the best consistency of the field. My fastest lap was 1 second per lap slower than the leaders fastest lap. Had I been 1 second per lap faster, I would have been a contender.

Sure, a hot motor won't help if you can't keep off the wall, but for those who do keep off the wall, it can make a massive difference. Mind you, I think my overweight TC3 was a bigger factor than my motor choice.
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Old 02-26-2017, 07:07 PM   #154
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0.5-1 second a lap is huge. On one of my runs yesterday I finished middle of the pack, with the best consistency of the field. My fastest lap was 1 second per lap slower than the leaders fastest lap. Had I been 1 second per lap faster, I would have been a contender.

Sure, a hot motor won't help if you can't keep off the wall, but for those who do keep off the wall, it can make a massive difference. Mind you, I think my overweight TC3 was a bigger factor than my motor choice.
I think so

The Nimh cut outs on the battery side of the chassis would make the car behave differently left to right for a start (different flex characteristics)
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Old 02-26-2017, 07:25 PM   #155
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0.5-1 second a lap is huge. On one of my runs yesterday I finished middle of the pack, with the best consistency of the field. My fastest lap was 1 second per lap slower than the leaders fastest lap. Had I been 1 second per lap faster, I would have been a contender.

Sure, a hot motor won't help if you can't keep off the wall, but for those who do keep off the wall, it can make a massive difference. Mind you, I think my overweight TC3 was a bigger factor than my motor choice.
My problem as well. I have a very good geared Fantom and was pulled 3-4 feet on teh straight by a team scream 21.5T, every lap

The motor is noticeably faster. If I would have had a TSR 21.5T today, good chance I could have won.

It was that much of a difference. THe TB-03 on a diet is down to 1390 Grams which still is 40 G over, but that is not why I can;t keep up.

That TSR 21.5T is a 17.5T in another can




Ridiculous and insane at the same time.
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Old 02-26-2017, 10:03 PM   #156
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Given the length of time it seems to take getting a motor from TSR it's unlikely they'll be more than a flash in the pan. No doubt companies like Fantom and Trinity will match their performance and with the ability to actually fulfill orders rather than let lengthy back order queues build (while they have your $$ as well) people will switch. The latest and greatest means nothing if you can't keep churning out the orders in a reasonable time frame, one look at the TSR thread tells me that right now, they can't.
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Old 02-27-2017, 05:04 AM   #157
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At the track that I race in the VTA class. The fast guy has the TSR 25.5 and the Awesomatix chasis and I had a Novak 25.5 with the TC10 and my fastest time was 4 second behind him. I purchased the new Hobbywing V10 25.5 and now I am 2 second behind him so now I will work with the motor timing and gearing to see if that will make a difference.
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Old 02-27-2017, 05:12 AM   #158
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At the track that I race in the VTA class. The fast guy has the TSR 25.5 and the Awesomatix chasis and I had a Novak 25.5 with the TC10 and my fastest time was 4 second behind him. I purchased the new Hobbywing V10 25.5 and now I am 2 second behind him so now I will work with the motor timing and gearing to see if that will make a difference.
The TSR 25.5 is not a updated motor and the IR of 25.5 is limited by the rules, so my guess is that your gearing is slightly off. I have seen Novak motors beat TSR, Fantom, and a few others (nod to Darkside) consistently.
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Old 02-27-2017, 05:24 AM   #159
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If it mattters I've always liked Boutique motors??
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Old 02-27-2017, 09:58 AM   #160
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Well, I lost a little faith today when checking Amain hobbies and found that the new Monster motor in some sort of "certified plus" format is $175. My 1/12 scale kit didn't cost $175.
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Old 02-27-2017, 01:13 PM   #161
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Well, I lost a little faith today when checking Amain hobbies and found that the new Monster motor in some sort of "certified plus" format is $175. My 1/12 scale kit didn't cost $175.
Doesn't the new "regular" version of the Maxzilla have the high torque rotor?
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Old 02-27-2017, 01:25 PM   #162
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Well, I lost a little faith today when checking Amain hobbies and found that the new Monster motor in some sort of "certified plus" format is $175. My 1/12 scale kit didn't cost $175.
And people wonder why on road is dying and we cant get new racers...
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Old 02-27-2017, 02:03 PM   #163
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If nothing changes nothing changes, We are the ones that control what happens to the hobby!!! Am I guilty of thinking a new better than yesterday motor, Battery, car is going to make me faster YUP, Did it make me faster NO, There isn't a clear cut answer that will work for everyone.As long as we're willing to spend there will be someone there to take it!!!
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Old 02-27-2017, 02:33 PM   #164
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well all I got to say is we had 15 usgt cars at a club race....10 out of the 15 had the newer style motors...from TSR..MC2 & so on....I TQ'ED & won with the old Motiv motor...so I would say its more then motor...its driving & setup..& when I say setup...I just don't mean chassis..i mean radio..esc also...I work on my car all day until I took TQ in the 3rd round & the win in the main....all I'm saying is you can close the gap if you work on other parts other then motor...IJS
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Old 02-27-2017, 02:47 PM   #165
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IMO if you are being consistent with fast lap time and still getting beat. You might be out motor.
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