Best lipo battery for stock class.
 

What's the best battery for 21.5 usgt class as far as mah goes?

Seeing as though I only go through 1800-2000mah with warm up laps (a lot of them) and a 6 minute heat or main, I would say 3000 mah is adequate. However, I use 5800mah packs since that is what I bought. The price difference 5800 and 6000 was too much for me to buy them for VTA and USGT. Hope this helps.

I'm running a TC3 and use the Hobbyking Zippy 4000mah 2S lipo packs (under $16 a pack) that have the dimples moulded into the bottom. These fit the TC3 perfectly and I never have any issues.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-40...warehouse.html

It is all a compromise. Go as big as you can within the rules without going overweight and without unbalancing your vehicle. I'm running a 6000mAh 90C lipo that weighs 304g and I'm running 50g of ballast, 40g of which is on the electronics side of my car to keep the L/R balanced and to bring the car up to minimum weight. I could run a 314g lipo and 40g of balast on the electronics side but this is close enough. Why run a 6000mAh lipo if a 3000 will do? I'm coming off of the track at 7.8v with a 3000mAh lipo, I'd come off at 7.4v or less. That is a substantial difference.

I think the question itself is the problem. It should be: What is the minimum mah lipo needed to run blinky without too much voltage drop at a decent price ???
My experience has been that when I run my $79 TP(201g) 3300mah 65C lipo packs, I am posting my best laps on the first eight laps, and I can't keep posting these laptimes after lap #14... With my $41 Fantom(287g) 5000mah 100C packs, I can post the same fast laptimes past lap #18 until the last lap(#23 or #24).... My fantom packs are about 7.78v after a main, while my TP 3300mah packs are around 7.6v... A higher mah pack would give better results, but I find that most fast guys still run their $50 6000mah to 6400mah packs with great success... $100+ 8400mah is overkill, and will not guarantee Tq and win, specially when many 40amp load tests show just a 0.07 volt difference at the 2000mah mark versus the 6000mah/6200mah packs.......
So it seems that the battery sweet spot might be somewhere between 6000mah and 6500mah, unless someone finds a way to stop voltage drop under 8.2 volts no matter the amp draw....lol...

In all spec classes you want to run a higher mAh pack with a good c rating, you want to be able to have consistent power throughout the entire run, races usually tight in those classes and you don't want to fall off with 1 to 2 minutes to go. I run 7500 with 90-100c in vta and 17.5 classes.

I had the same question not long ago, and borrowed a bunch of batteries off some of the local racers. I found that the Turnigy nano-tech Ultimate 7500 performed the best, even though it pushed my already overweight TC3 way over the weight limit. It had more punch and held the voltage better throughout the race than the others I tried (which included a 5600 and a 6000 Turnigy Graphene).

I did a test with a couple of lipos...I found 5600 & up to 6500 is all you need...
I also found that HVLI are better then normal lipos because they hold their voltage longer at 8.4...I run 5600 60c HVLI & they was better then my 6500 7200 packs

Just remember that if your track enforces USVTA rules, the max is 6000.

The Turnigy nano tech ultimate/graphene 7500mah were the only two batteries that held over 7.9v at the start of the 40amp discharge, but they only did that while new...All the other 7500+mah packs performed the same as 6000mah packs up to the 2000mah mark, and only recorded 7.83v max... That's definitely a thumbs up for those new Turnigy ultimates/graphenes, but I think their new cells might show even more promise...
Blinky Racing = Battery of the week !!! LoL......

in 17.5 i currently run a 8000 mah battery, seeing the difference in weight between a 8000 and 6200 of the same brand/model battery and the speedo, servo, motor on teh other side....my 8000 ways 60-80g more than all those electronics.

i said all that to say this, find a battery around the 6000mah range that weigh close to the same as your other electronics that will be on the other side of the car. that way you dont have to add so many weights to the car to balance it out.

For blinky racing the biggest battery you can run while still keeping the car statically balanced is priority number one. After that you should be looking for a battery with a nice, low IR that's consistent between the cells in the pack. The EAM 6000s are a solid pack for blinky racing. Low IR, less voltage drop than most packs of higher capacity, and of course lower weight than some of those monster 7000+mAh cells.

Nicks done a few videos, well worth a watch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLdGhzg_wEE

I fell into this battery game. In theory it all makes sense. Northern California has produced some very fast racers. I used the $100 7800 packs. But noticed people using GenAce packs with the same power as me. So I borrowed a pack and ran the same lap times that I had been running with my $100 packs. So I'm over this C rating crap. I now use the 7000 pack in my usgt car. And a shorty 5000 pack in my 17.5 sedan. These GenAce packs work very well for very little money. And lap times in 17.5 are the same thru a full 6 minute run. So like what everyone that understands setup. Run a pack that balances your car out left to right and don't get caught up in C ratings crap

Guys, does anyone know if the new LRP 6400 Stock spec batteries are legal for club races? The new ones are now the HV type at 7.6V nominal voltage. So can they be used, of course charged to 8.4V max?