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Old 01-28-2017, 07:19 PM   #31
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How heavy is the body?
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Old 01-28-2017, 08:08 PM   #32
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The body is about 135g with not to much paint and stickers. The wing is about 20g.
Will try running without.
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Old 01-29-2017, 03:47 PM   #33
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First test of my brother's car on Friday was a bit silly - we failed to realise that the internal FDR was so low - 2.6 and had no way of getting even close to the right final FDR (around 3.7 for the track). Red face but the Protoform Camaro Z28 body fits perfect with some trimming of the foam bumper. So we don't have to give up any performance in the Lexan department which pleased me. Interestingly, the long nose of the chassis plate prevented the front spliter of the Camaro body from snagging the carpet during breaking allowing the body to be run a little lower than normal.
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Old 01-29-2017, 07:41 PM   #34
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you need to run a small spur gear... try 82/58... Me I will try 76/64 to be at 3.0 fdr ! I run that FDR at my local track with my yokomo /spice FWD converted and run very well !

at 3.7 you wheelspin all the time
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Old 01-29-2017, 08:04 PM   #35
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you need to run a small spur gear... try 82/58... Me I will try 76/64 to be at 3.0 fdr ! I run that FDR at my local track with my yokomo /spice FWD converted and run very well !

at 3.7 you wheelspin all the time
I hadn't yet thought about overgearing to reduce wheel spin. It's a tight track with a lot of time spent changing speeds. Hmm.
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Old 01-30-2017, 09:16 AM   #36
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Finished the bench racing today very impatient to try it on the track next weekend!





Curious to see lap time and fade over 6 minutes of a super shorty vs a normal shorty.
What modifications are required to mount the servo on the right side?
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Old 01-30-2017, 10:29 AM   #37
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What modifications are required to mount the servo on the right side?
Flip the plate, use thr servo mount inside and use shoegoo to secure the servo. You will need to grind under the swaybar mount and figure an optimal link length and angle
A new servo plate is already designed and I am just waiting for the machinist for a quote.
It will use the 3 screws on the top for more leverage and you will need an additional thin servo mount like the original or maybe like the xray.
I will post after some testing.
This mod is not essential but in my case it helps to balance the car more easily and have shorter cables.
I will need to test the behavior of transversal vs longitudinale battery on the track and may design something that doesn't need battery tape
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Old 01-30-2017, 11:02 AM   #38
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This is the design for now. Really basic but it dosent need to be fancy.




Tests will need to be done on track and I will give you a link where to order it later
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Old 01-30-2017, 02:07 PM   #39
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I hadn't yet thought about overgearing to reduce wheel spin. It's a tight track with a lot of time spent changing speeds. Hmm.


this is the layout at my local track and my fdr do very well !
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Old 01-30-2017, 02:08 PM   #40
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error !!
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Old 01-30-2017, 02:16 PM   #41
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This is the design for now. Really basic but it dosent need to be fancy.




Tests will need to be done on track and I will give you a link where to order it later
I'd like the ability to mount the battery transveresly as far forward as possible like on the MTS FF Pro. That chassis has the entire electronics package on the front half of the car for maximum front grip and apparently it kicks butt.
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Old 02-04-2017, 12:24 PM   #42
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I think I will emulate the MTS FF pro electronics setup or take it step further - need more weight up front in order to get any decent acceleration. Maybe mount the servo 12th scale style (direct), battery pack slammed right behind it transversely, ESC next to servo or on top of it if need be. I'll just get my good 3M double sided tape out and test it.
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Old 02-05-2017, 06:33 PM   #43
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I do about 400 laps yesterday.
At the end of the day I found some compromise with the setup and I was getting closer to my regular USGT car.
The car is handling great but I got some issues with the top gear disintegration...I don't think metal to metal is a great idea at least with the type of material used on this car. I ordered some FF03 gears to test and will report back (will be a composite gear in the middle).
I will also try the FF12 belt system.

The differential was happy with 2.4M fluid but when I tested some 20M the main gear was skipping when testing the action on the bench. The solution was to shim the spider gears and remove the paper seal.

The 3Racing Civic is handling OK (not compared with another body yet) and removing the wing was doable but it was difficult to be consistent. After removing it I tried to put the same amount of weight on the rear of the car and the results was similar...the wing need to stay there and somehow it'S doing something on the aerodynamics...at least for me

I tested back to back a low CG shorty and a regular one and the lap times and fade where abnormally similar. I think that a regular weight shorty add a little bit of stability and it offset the weight advantage of the low CG. I will continue to try both next time and try to make some observation for the wheel spin.
Also I like more the battery mounted transversely vs longitudinally (centered in the middle of the car). The more I move the battery forward the better the car behave. Like David observation.

Will report back after more testing. That thing fly on the stretch and 17.5 4wd sedan are slower on a fresh pack
If the car become noisier take a close look a the top gear...
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Old 02-06-2017, 08:12 AM   #44
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Good report. It looks like there is too much backlash in the gears. I would also like to try the belt drive.
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:55 AM   #45
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This should test FF weight distribution question quite well tonight
https://goo.gl/photos/9dL7mwQMuRXnTYh68
Servo is mounted 12th scale style and everything is slammed forward. Steering geometry sucks but this will give me answers.
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