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Old 11-28-2016, 03:27 PM   #16
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FTJ_85, I've watched the videos you linked and looked up the manual on your CRC 3.1 Carpet Knife. Can you let us know what type of surface you are running on. Since you mentioned foam tires, I assumed you are running on carpet.

Luckily you own a car from a manufacturer that still exists and is highly involved with r/c racing. In fact they are the primary supplier of Ozite R/C racing carpet. You might contact CRC Racing (Calandra Racing Concepts) as they might have some great setup sheets or ideas how to get the most out of your 1/12 on-road chassis on an oval track. Here is a link to their customer support...

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...showpage&pid=5

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One of the biggest issues your are going to have with your car is that the steering geometry is designed for on-road racing and not a dedicated oval car. A few differences on the front suspension are:

Oval
Caster Blocks - level (the part where the upper a-arm attaches to the hinges)
Wheel Axles - in-line (with the kingpin - front springs)
On-road
Caster Blocks - angled forward
Wheel Axles - trailing (behind the kingpin)

Check out this example of a current CRC 1/12 oval car to see the differences in your front suspension


Basically a 1/10 or 1/12 on-road has a much more aggressive steering setup vs an oval car. Without taking out mechanical steering and "loosening" or "freeing" up the rear end of your car, you probably have a car on oval that is "pushing like a dump truck" and "burning off the right front" because the suspension isn't working like it needs to. So what do you do?

(Hold on...going to break this into another post)
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Old 11-28-2016, 04:01 PM   #17
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Without boring everyone with all of the details why the 1/12 suspension may not work (because I don't know them all), what are some easy things we CAN do to get a 1/12 on-road car to work on any oval.

The first thing about oval racing on a left turn track is to have as little left turn steering as possible to make it around the turn. Some people like to have enough steering to be able to make a U-turn in the event of an accident, but that is the most I would ever use. If you have a sophisticated enough transmitter, you can program a button to give you max steering if needed. Also having very little right steering will help prevent you from over-correcting when driving down the straight. You also might want to "deaden" the initial steering by adjusting the steering exponential.

Since the OP has an older 1/12 style car that uses the "Dynamic Suspension", I would highly recommend changing the caster blocks to zero degrees. Here is an example made by Team Associated that may work the CRC car (since 1/12 suspension was very similar between brands for many years). These parts cost about $5 USD

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...ension_mounts/


I wouldn't worry as much if your car has trailing axles as first adjusting the caster angle on your suspension.
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Old 11-28-2016, 04:25 PM   #18
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Here is another thing to keep in mind when running on a very small banked oval track like the OP posted is that the car has a tendency to "slam" into the corners.

Basically as the car is transitioning into the corner the center shock is put under a lot of load and the car can bottom out into the ground or the limit of the suspension. Not only does this slow the car down, but it can also make the car push to the outside wall. You might consider running a harder center spring to help get the car to rotate better around the corner.

Another option is to put some anti-squat into the rear pod. Normally the chassis and pod are level with each other. But you can set the rear pod to be angled down from the chassis a bit. You don't need much angle, maybe a 1 or 2 degrees compared to the chassis. But this will allow the car to compress into the corner and keep the chassis and rear pod at a level angle which should give the car more steering. This is easier to do with t-plate rear pod cars, but you should be able to do it with a trailing link car.

Another quick rear pod setting that will affect steering is the center shock angle. Typically a flatter angle rear shock will have less steering vs a more angle rear shock. Depending on the design of a car, sometimes there isn't much room for adjustment here. However, you can always use longer or shorter ball studs to change the angle if you can't adjust other parts. Or you can use shims to raise/lower the ball stud.
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Old 11-28-2016, 04:32 PM   #19
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One last thought before I recommend we take this discussion over to the oval threads on this forums...

Tires...If you have the wrong tires for the surface and or speed you are running, there is only so much that setup will help. When I was racing 1/10 6-cell pan-car oval, a good starting point was green rears/green LF/blue RF. This type of tire setup would get your around the track. You might want to contact a tire company like BRS to see what they might recommend for 1/12 oval racing. Here is a link on their website for 1/12 scale tires...

http://johnsbsrracing.com/foam-tires/12th-scale-foams
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Old 12-02-2016, 09:51 PM   #20
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Smile thanks again

Yeh im hating this track!! is so unpredictable because its not carpet its a track that is painted with mixture of sand!! so tires wear bad and the more it is driven around the slick it seems. I have a 15turn brushed that is only turned to 30% power and its horrible that its only oval or rc track indoors near boone, north carolina. I really appreciate everyone who has helped me here
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