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Old 12-05-2016, 08:22 AM   #16
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My local supplier brought in a Nardo and M15 for me to test. At my local track (very technical layout on medium grip grey ozite), i tried both bodies on my 17.5 touring stock car. The M15 was very easy to drive, and very consistent. I put in a good run, although my fast lap was 0.2s off of the pace with my previous body. The consistency made up for the lack of speed. I then tried the Nardo. It definitely had more steering, but it wasn't hyperactive or overly sensitive to steering inputs. The rear was a tad free, but very easy to control. The car was very close to grip rolling with this body compared to the m15. I figured this would be a good mod body.
I then tried it on my mod car and was instantly impressed by how well it worked. Running modified touring on our small tight layout is difficult, but the nardo allowed me to run 5 minutes without even a board tick.
This past weekend, i took the bodies to the 4th leg of the WCICS series in Edmonton. The event was run on black crc ft2 carpet. I brought 9 different bodies with me to try. I ended up coming back to the Nardo for all of my runs in mod. It had the perfect amount of steering and rotation while still being forgiving. Blitz gsf wanted to get loose on throttle, ltc2 would lose rear traction a bit more suddenly in tighter corners (not to mention the ltc2.0 was WAY more prone to cracking). Blitz wrx gave me grip roll issues.
I was not able to run the M15 at this event. Some bumps on the track meant that the bodies had to be mounted a bit higher than usual, and i wasn't able to mount the m15 high enough due to bit having high enough body posts. The m15 requires VERY long front body posts due to the hood being very long and high at the front.
Biggest downside to the Bittydesign bodies is their weighg. They are very heavy compared to other manufacturer's lightweight bodies. It looks like this has been rectified with the new material supplier, but it may take some time before the old heavy bodies get through the system.
sounds like to me that the M15 is what's the most comparable to the PF Mazda 6, is that correct? from pics it seemed like the nardo would be more like the mazda 6 though.

i'd really like to switch to bittydesign since mostly everyone is running PF
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Old 12-05-2016, 12:18 PM   #17
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I'd say the m15 has just a bit less steering than the ms6.
The nardo has a wider and more vertical front than the ms6 which gives it more steering...it creates more high pressure on the splitter. The rear decklid is shorter than the ms6 so it likely has a bit less rear downforce. I ran a 'charge' wing on the Nardo in mod.
While pf bodies are very popular and they do work, there are other bodies that work, too, but typically last longer. I got maybe 8X more life out of my 0.5mm ultralight blitz gsf than any LW pf body. My LTC2.0 lw lasted 3 runs before it had cracks over the wheel arches and 2 splits in the headlight area. A car spun on the straight at yesterdays race and i hit him at full speed in mod with the nardo body.... not a mark on the body.
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Old 12-05-2016, 12:45 PM   #18
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Ordered 2 of the ASCARI bodies for black carpet during the buy one, get one offer. Anxious for them to arrive!
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Old 12-05-2016, 01:06 PM   #19
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I'd say the m15 has just a bit less steering than the ms6.
The nardo has a wider and more vertical front than the ms6 which gives it more steering...it creates more high pressure on the splitter. The rear decklid is shorter than the ms6 so it likely has a bit less rear downforce. I ran a 'charge' wing on the Nardo in mod.
While pf bodies are very popular and they do work, there are other bodies that work, too, but typically last longer. I got maybe 8X more life out of my 0.5mm ultralight blitz gsf than any LW pf body. My LTC2.0 lw lasted 3 runs before it had cracks over the wheel arches and 2 splits in the headlight area. A car spun on the straight at yesterdays race and i hit him at full speed in mod with the nardo body.... not a mark on the body.
On my old chassis i was already looking for a tad bit more steering, so if the M15 has less, i may shy away from it and lean towards the nardo. thanks
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:51 AM   #20
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@DBM Thank you for the feed, we appreciate that you noticed the big weight reduction that we've done on the bodies, this is the aspect where we put our main effort and we're very satisfied about the final result, if you consider that our bodies were the heaviest and now they are the lightest on the market, durability at same time is very good.

The Narḍ body is one the favourite for drivers that racing in the Modified class, it was a very good body before the "updating", now it perform still better, windows mask, decal sheet, marks on the lexan everything has been improved and refined. This is not our most aggressive body, using the Narḍ will give to the driver a very comfortable driving feeling, very good rear stability and more steering than the M15 body (that is easier to drive because the front end is less aggressive).

On Medium/High grip surface we suggest to you to use our Striker 3.0 body, you will be speechless about the performances of this model, also in this case everything has been improved and a lot refined respect the old production. This body can make the difference in many situations.

On high grip track you can switch to the ASCARI, not only it looks great to see while driving but respect the Striker 3.0 have more fluidity in the turns, steering of this body is almost equal to the Striker.


@phatboislim Nice to hear your comment, sound great and very satisfactory for our work, thank you. We hope other 10.000+ people will think to "switch" like you!
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:30 AM   #21
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How low should I mount my nardo body ? Also how tight or loose should it be when mounting the body to the chassis with the clips ,to get the full aero advanctage when driving. Thanks
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Old 12-15-2016, 09:00 AM   #22
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Just received my ASCARI bodies from the buy one, get one free Black Friday sale. Looking forward to getting them mounted up.
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Old 12-15-2016, 07:45 PM   #23
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How low should I mount my nardo body ? Also how tight or loose should it be when mounting the body to the chassis with the clips ,to get the full aero advanctage when driving. Thanks
Hey Chris,

Mount the body 4mm forward and leave 4mm of splitter, sides cut 4mm above cut line. Or inline with the splitter.. Make sure the body falls on and moves a tiny tiny bit but not too much. Should never be tight.

Hope that helps. It's an awesome consistent body.
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:53 PM   #24
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Hey Chris,

Mount the body 4mm forward and leave 4mm of splitter, sides cut 4mm above cut line. Or inline with the splitter.. Make sure the body falls on and moves a tiny tiny bit but not too much. Should never be tight.

Hope that helps. It's an awesome consistent body.
Why should the body be a little loose and not tight?
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Old 12-15-2016, 09:02 PM   #25
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The body shouldn't influence chassis flex in any way. Bodies fitted tight will place tweak through the shock towers via the body posts. The chassis will work best and respond to set up better when not influenced by body resistance or pressure caused by a tightly fitting bodyshell..
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Old 12-16-2016, 01:23 AM   #26
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Thanks mate . I think i was running my shells to free, to much play. I've not tried the nardo yet cant wait to try it. Also do you recommend using the 1mm charge wing? I've been using lee speed .

Last edited by Chris kal; 12-16-2016 at 01:42 AM.
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Old 12-16-2016, 04:01 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Lionel S View Post
Hey Chris,

Mount the body 4mm forward and leave 4mm of splitter, sides cut 4mm above cut line. Or inline with the splitter.. Make sure the body falls on and moves a tiny tiny bit but not too much. Should never be tight.

Hope that helps. It's an awesome consistent body.
Thanks Lionel, what you wrote is exactly what we recommend to everyone, the body shouldn't influence chassis flex in any way, make the 4 clips holes 1mm larger (no more) than your clip tower diameter, at same time the body must be not too much free. From the clip to the body 2mm space is what we suggest, expecially on carpet (with more grip the car will roll more).

@Chris Kal When you will try our new Light weight Narḍ body shell remember to add about 8-10gr on your chassis because our bodies are now a lot lighter (but very durable) than other brands, this will give you still more performance because you reduce the overall center of gravity. If you race in the Stock class the std light wing is enough, always place it 10mm backward respect the read end of the body; if you race the Modified class we recommend to use our Charge wing (1mm thick).
On carpet you can also consider to reduce the front splitter to 3mm.
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Last edited by Bittydesign; 12-16-2016 at 04:51 AM.
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Old 12-16-2016, 07:44 AM   #28
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If I wanted to try one of your bodies, which one would you suggest?

Track is outdoor medium grip asphalt (a parking lot with traction additive sprayed down)
Bodies I have tried:
PF Mazdaspeed6- Stable, lacked the steering I wanted, but overall grip was okay (Cool Weather 15C, Clear Sky, Tires- Team Powers 32R front 30R rear)
PF LTCR- Better steering, more grip (Cool Weather 12C, Overcast, Tires-Team Powers 30R)
PF Mazda6 GX (used body from someone else)- Great grip, Nice steering, Car felt planted (Warm Weather 26C, Clear and Sunny, Tires- Solaris unknown compound, used)

I realize that weather, temperature, and tires plays a part in traction, that is why I added to each. I am looking for a body that will be usable throughout the year.
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Old 12-16-2016, 10:08 AM   #29
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FYI I received one of your pre-painted F1 bodies I ordered from A-main, looks like the helmet and other parts inside the bag took some chunks out of the paint on the inside of the body (have 5-6 dings with missing paint). Probably want to work on re-packaging those somehow to prevent damage to the paint.
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Old 12-17-2016, 05:24 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargoes View Post
If I wanted to try one of your bodies, which one would you suggest?

Track is outdoor medium grip asphalt (a parking lot with traction additive sprayed down)
Bodies I have tried:
PF Mazdaspeed6- Stable, lacked the steering I wanted, but overall grip was okay (Cool Weather 15C, Clear Sky, Tires- Team Powers 32R front 30R rear)
PF LTCR- Better steering, more grip (Cool Weather 12C, Overcast, Tires-Team Powers 30R)
PF Mazda6 GX (used body from someone else)- Great grip, Nice steering, Car felt planted (Warm Weather 26C, Clear and Sunny, Tires- Solaris unknown compound, used)

I realize that weather, temperature, and tires plays a part in traction, that is why I added to each. I am looking for a body that will be usable throughout the year.
Without a doubt try the Nardo. Just works everywhere..
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