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Old 11-11-2016, 10:59 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Carnage9270 View Post
There is actually a little bit more to it than that, but it's a decent generalization. Really what you are looking for is battery curve first. Not all batteries drain the same way. Some can hold voltage longer than others. It can be a difference of running for a full 6 mins @7.8V (under load) or running @7.8V for the first 4 minutes and 7.4 volts for the last two. But the only way you'll truly know the curve is by testing and running them.

A typical lipo has a curve that isn't constant, meaning it's curve flattens out for a while and provides that constant power for a while then starts to fall off. Finding a good battery means you'll be looking for the battery that runs at a high "flattened out" curve for the entire duration of your run.

Keep in mind, not all branded batteries are the same from batch to batch as well. Buy a battery in July that performs really well, then purchase another in April and it's curve can be completely different because it was purchased from a different batch from your first battery.
Translation: the battery wars that were thought a thing of the past, continue. Spend spend spend!
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Old 11-11-2016, 11:55 AM   #17
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I think its not as simple as buy the biggest battery. You want your car to be close or below the weight limit. I personally used 4500mah shorty packs to win national titles in 21.5 f1 and touring car this year. I used to believe a big battery is better. Now i am a non believer.
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Old 11-11-2016, 12:43 PM   #18
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My response to the OP is since you are running a very specific spec class, why do you suspect your batteries are holding you back? The only way to really know if they are is if you did benchmark tests when you bought them and have bench-marked them since and have seen a significant drop in performance. At a minimum you could benchmark them now and compare them to whom ever is beating you. You might find that a person finishing in front of you is actually using lesser equipment but has a better setup car and is a better driver.

It is easy to feel like we need to buy our way to a win with newer equipment, but rarely do any of us get the most out of what we have. If your car is dropping off during the race with your current equipment, your setup just may not be efficient. If possible, see if any of the faster guys will let you borrow their battery and see if your results improve.
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:32 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by dawgmeat View Post
http://www.ip-battery.com/

Intellect America is a division within IP, If buying in the U.S. your Reedy, Orca Lipo came from Intellect America via IP
dont assume all "IP" looking batteries are the same.

HV LIPO are JUNK (4.35v/cell). They fall off after a few charges. Don't be fooled.
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Old 11-15-2016, 10:12 PM   #20
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I have decided to go with the Turnigy Graphene 7500 battery. It was on sale, has promised a low IR and has a lower weight than other 7500 batteries.
The reason I decided with new batteries is, that the Gens Ace doesn't hold its voltage and the Nanotech is little buffed with a defective cell. Thank you all for your answers.
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Old 11-16-2016, 05:47 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by YellowClip View Post
I have decided to go with the Turnigy Graphene 7500 battery. It was on sale, has promised a low IR and has a lower weight than other 7500 batteries.
The reason I decided with new batteries is, that the Gens Ace doesn't hold its voltage and the Nanotech is little buffed with a defective cell. Thank you all for your answers.
I'm using this battery atm. Bough it back in Aug at that time ir's were @ .9 during charging but now 3months later their setting at 2.5 during a charge . No swelling tho and it has probably 100 race cycles in the time with 6+- full cycles
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Old 11-16-2016, 06:16 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YellowClip View Post
I have decided to go with the Turnigy Graphene 7500 battery. It was on sale, has promised a low IR and has a lower weight than other 7500 batteries.
The reason I decided with new batteries is, that the Gens Ace doesn't hold its voltage and the Nanotech is little buffed with a defective cell. Thank you all for your answers.
I got the same battery, you can't argue at 50%
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Old 11-16-2016, 06:31 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
dont assume all "IP" looking batteries are the same.

HV LIPO are JUNK (4.35v/cell). They fall off after a few charges. Don't be fooled.

I didn't speak to any specific "HV LIPO's (4.35v/cell)", anyway these are the lipos I use

https://www.intellectamerica.com/col...00c-2s-7800mah

Paid $82 plus free priority shipping. After about 6-7 cycles I'm getting about 1.1-1.2 ohm

https://www.intellectamerica.com/col...00c-1s-8000mah

Paid $84 for 2 1S lipos plus free priority shipping. After about 3-4 cycles I'm getting about 1.5-1.6 ohm, I was told the 1s lipos take a little bit longer for the IR to drop than the 2S version.

My 7800 lipo is nothing short of beastmode in 21.5 TC and with my 17.5 1/10 Pan Car my 8000mah lipo maybe a tad bit less punchy but it remains strong and they never fade over the course of a 6 minutes race

They're far from junk
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